FIGS

iTrader: (11)

The one I have above is one that we picked up from SPC and one that we resell as a result.
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=201

There are less expensive ones but this has just the right opening on the backside. I can check the trac link knuckle bushing just to verify. The pic above was on a Gen 1GS.

BayAreaLex

That would be great. And it looks like that sleeve definitely as to come out before the FIGS poly bushing can go in?

Also, is the trac-link arm front OEM bushing rubber or spherical? Same question for the inside part of the rear lower control arm (opposite side of the knuckle/carrier)

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

The rest of the bushings in the suspension are staked-rubber bushings. Our bushings are complete replacements meaning the sleeves are completely removed. The inner LCA bushing we have has a replacement metal sleeve as part of it since the bushing spans the OEM arm sheetmetal and requires this structure.
Mike

northstar3

Can someone tell me where to find these bushing for RX 330 ? Thanks

http://

northstar3

Can you advise me where I can get these for RX 330 ?

repugnante

Honestly that looks like the same ones the GS and IS uses. Have you researched that? We all may share the same part

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

not the same, similar if your dimensions are correct. GS, SC and IS are all 43mm x 55mm.

northstar3

yeah this is the problem....can not fingd the right replacement for RX ... the price of the carrier is $ 350 - without the whell bearing ......and this is so stupid that toyota/ lexus do not sell them

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

I can look into it. Maybe machine a set up.

BayAreaLex

Just wanted to update my situation since the replacement carrier bushings didn't solve my rattling over uneven surfaces on the passenger side rear corner.

I got under the rear of the car today with the suspenion unloaded and I started to shake things around. Everything felt solid except for the carrier bushings that I JUST replaced. Although there was no up/down play, there was noticeable in/out play where the inside part of the bushing had about 0.5-1mm of play in and out relative to the outside of the bushing which is solidly pressed into the knuckle. Here is a video clip of the play:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lp2tH...ature=youtu.be

Immediately I thought to myself, "I must have installed a bad bushing and not even known it." I then went over to the driver side and noticed the exact same play! After seeing that I wondered if that amount of play was normal.

In any case, based on Megan Racings recommendation (after replacing the top hats as well), I went ahead and swapped the rear shock cartridge since I've had the spare rear shock laying around that I picked up several months ago for $115 directly from Megan. I was skeptical but guess what? Problem Solved! Replacing the shock eliminated the rattling. And yes, I checked a dozen times to make sure everything was always tight.

Admittedly, this is a bit puzzling because the old shock, although not rebounding anywhere as quickly as the new shock, didn't show any signs of anything being obviously wrong. I didn't notice any unusual play in the shaft nor any noises when shaking it.

I'm thrilled that the problem is solved but wish I had an explanation for why the shock itself was the culprit of the rattling I've been hearing for the past several months. I'm curious enough that I might call Megan to get their view on the situation.

Unrelated to this, I also pondered the following... When installing coilovers, should the upper and lower mounts be torqued with the suspension loaded? I think most people install and torque their coilovers with the suspension unloaded which puts the coilover under stress when at ride height due to how the control arm articulates.

Luke

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

I would expect a grease packed bearing to potentially have play depending on the lubrication design. If the ball does nat have channels in it the grease can never get in between the wear interface unless it has a gap. This gap will pump grease into that area as it cycles. The second issue related to the shock has to do with how the valves are designed and the way they are fatigued. Import coilovers use simple valve stacks that deflect under pressure allowing fluid to pass through. Overtime these stack fatigue, be it the type of material or manufacturing tolerances. That clicking is just one or more of the washers essentially floating without resistance. This is one reason why we make import coilovers work only with the proper spring rates to prevent the added stress on the washer stacks.

Generally speaking coilovers are sold with too soft of springs because they are covering a wide range of uses per vehicle. This forces the consumer in most cases to over damp the suspension to limit travel. The extra fluid force puts more stress on the washer stacks which are then being run in the max range of their preload. This cause the stacks to fatigue faster. But adding a stiffer spring, you let the spring limit travel, and you get more valve settings to play with.

RE: torquing at load, it depends on the bushing design. Most lower mounts are free moving poly or rubber type so they do not experience preload. IF the lower is bonded then it should be torqued at load. Most uppers are rubber and bonded but the upper does not experience much misalignment.


One that is true though is that the spring is an excellent noise magnifier. It will resonate on nearly any sound in the area which makes noise diagnoses an even greater challenge.
Mike

BayAreaLex

Figs,

That was an awesome explanation and I thank you for it.

I never considered this washer stack being something that could potentially fatigue and because of this it took so long for me to identify the problem since I dismissed the shock.

Furthermore, about 4 months ago I removed the offending shock, took it apart, but didn't see anything obviously wrong and actually reinstalled it up until replacing it yesterday with a brand new one.

So for the folks that are getting a rattling at low speed over uneven surfaces and nothing seems to fix it, check those shocks!

Figs, you wouldn't happen to have an image or a cross sectional view of this washer stack and what exactly can potentially fatigue?

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

I found a good writeup on coilover components here. http://www.billavista.com/tech/Artic..._Bible_Part_1/

You can see the washer stacks in this shot



just think of them as a stock of precision wafers that create a resistance to the fluid trying to pass through them.
Mike

BayAreaLex

Figs, thanks for the useful summary.

So that begs the question. Who out there makes the highest quality C/O dampers. Not sure I would buy Megan again.

When using non C/O, I always stick with Bilsteins because I they are considered to be top notch in terms of quality. Does Bilstein make a C/O for our cars?

rl9010

Yes yes they do pss9 if I am not mistaken...(Going from memory if I am wrong someone correct me)