DIY - Rear Axle Carrier (Knuckle) Bushing Replacement
#316
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The one I have above is one that we picked up from SPC and one that we resell as a result.
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=201
There are less expensive ones but this has just the right opening on the backside. I can check the trac link knuckle bushing just to verify. The pic above was on a Gen 1GS.
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=201
There are less expensive ones but this has just the right opening on the backside. I can check the trac link knuckle bushing just to verify. The pic above was on a Gen 1GS.
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#317
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That would be great. And it looks like that sleeve definitely as to come out before the FIGS poly bushing can go in?
Also, is the trac-link arm front OEM bushing rubber or spherical? Same question for the inside part of the rear lower control arm (opposite side of the knuckle/carrier)
Also, is the trac-link arm front OEM bushing rubber or spherical? Same question for the inside part of the rear lower control arm (opposite side of the knuckle/carrier)
#318
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The rest of the bushings in the suspension are staked-rubber bushings. Our bushings are complete replacements meaning the sleeves are completely removed. The inner LCA bushing we have has a replacement metal sleeve as part of it since the bushing spans the OEM arm sheetmetal and requires this structure.
Mike
Mike
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BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
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#322
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not the same, similar if your dimensions are correct. GS, SC and IS are all 43mm x 55mm.
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Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
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#323
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yeah this is the problem....can not fingd the right replacement for RX ... the price of the carrier is $ 350
- without the whell bearing ......and this is so stupid that toyota/ lexus do not sell them
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#324
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I can look into it. Maybe machine a set up.
__________________
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
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#325
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Now for the bad news... I was 99.9% convinced that my low speed rattle was due to bad carrier/knuckle bushings. Although the stock ones where shot, they were not the source of the rattle probem. Back to the drawing board. Any ideas guys? I'm back to thinking it could be a bad shock or some other bushing in the rear suspension.
I got under the rear of the car today with the suspenion unloaded and I started to shake things around. Everything felt solid except for the carrier bushings that I JUST replaced. Although there was no up/down play, there was noticeable in/out play where the inside part of the bushing had about 0.5-1mm of play in and out relative to the outside of the bushing which is solidly pressed into the knuckle. Here is a video clip of the play:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lp2tH...ature=youtu.be
Immediately I thought to myself, "I must have installed a bad bushing and not even known it." I then went over to the driver side and noticed the exact same play! After seeing that I wondered if that amount of play was normal.
In any case, based on Megan Racings recommendation (after replacing the top hats as well), I went ahead and swapped the rear shock cartridge since I've had the spare rear shock laying around that I picked up several months ago for $115 directly from Megan. I was skeptical but guess what? Problem Solved! Replacing the shock eliminated the rattling. And yes, I checked a dozen times to make sure everything was always tight.
Admittedly, this is a bit puzzling because the old shock, although not rebounding anywhere as quickly as the new shock, didn't show any signs of anything being obviously wrong. I didn't notice any unusual play in the shaft nor any noises when shaking it.
I'm thrilled that the problem is solved but wish I had an explanation for why the shock itself was the culprit of the rattling I've been hearing for the past several months. I'm curious enough that I might call Megan to get their view on the situation.
Unrelated to this, I also pondered the following... When installing coilovers, should the upper and lower mounts be torqued with the suspension loaded? I think most people install and torque their coilovers with the suspension unloaded which puts the coilover under stress when at ride height due to how the control arm articulates.
Luke
#326
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Just wanted to update my situation since the replacement carrier bushings didn't solve my rattling over uneven surfaces on the passenger side rear corner.
I got under the rear of the car today with the suspenion unloaded and I started to shake things around. Everything felt solid except for the carrier bushings that I JUST replaced. Although there was no up/down play, there was noticeable in/out play where the inside part of the bushing had about 0.5-1mm of play in and out relative to the outside of the bushing which is solidly pressed into the knuckle. Here is a video clip of the play:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lp2tH...ature=youtu.be
Immediately I thought to myself, "I must have installed a bad bushing and not even known it." I then went over to the driver side and noticed the exact same play! After seeing that I wondered if that amount of play was normal.
In any case, based on Megan Racings recommendation (after replacing the top hats as well), I went ahead and swapped the rear shock cartridge since I've had the spare rear shock laying around that I picked up several months ago for $115 directly from Megan. I was skeptical but guess what? Problem Solved! Replacing the shock eliminated the rattling. And yes, I checked a dozen times to make sure everything was always tight.
Admittedly, this is a bit puzzling because the old shock, although not rebounding anywhere as quickly as the new shock, didn't show any signs of anything being obviously wrong. I didn't notice any unusual play in the shaft nor any noises when shaking it.
I'm thrilled that the problem is solved but wish I had an explanation for why the shock itself was the culprit of the rattling I've been hearing for the past several months. I'm curious enough that I might call Megan to get their view on the situation.
Unrelated to this, I also pondered the following... When installing coilovers, should the upper and lower mounts be torqued with the suspension loaded? I think most people install and torque their coilovers with the suspension unloaded which puts the coilover under stress when at ride height due to how the control arm articulates.
Luke
I got under the rear of the car today with the suspenion unloaded and I started to shake things around. Everything felt solid except for the carrier bushings that I JUST replaced. Although there was no up/down play, there was noticeable in/out play where the inside part of the bushing had about 0.5-1mm of play in and out relative to the outside of the bushing which is solidly pressed into the knuckle. Here is a video clip of the play:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lp2tH...ature=youtu.be
Immediately I thought to myself, "I must have installed a bad bushing and not even known it." I then went over to the driver side and noticed the exact same play! After seeing that I wondered if that amount of play was normal.
In any case, based on Megan Racings recommendation (after replacing the top hats as well), I went ahead and swapped the rear shock cartridge since I've had the spare rear shock laying around that I picked up several months ago for $115 directly from Megan. I was skeptical but guess what? Problem Solved! Replacing the shock eliminated the rattling. And yes, I checked a dozen times to make sure everything was always tight.
Admittedly, this is a bit puzzling because the old shock, although not rebounding anywhere as quickly as the new shock, didn't show any signs of anything being obviously wrong. I didn't notice any unusual play in the shaft nor any noises when shaking it.
I'm thrilled that the problem is solved but wish I had an explanation for why the shock itself was the culprit of the rattling I've been hearing for the past several months. I'm curious enough that I might call Megan to get their view on the situation.
Unrelated to this, I also pondered the following... When installing coilovers, should the upper and lower mounts be torqued with the suspension loaded? I think most people install and torque their coilovers with the suspension unloaded which puts the coilover under stress when at ride height due to how the control arm articulates.
Luke
Generally speaking coilovers are sold with too soft of springs because they are covering a wide range of uses per vehicle. This forces the consumer in most cases to over damp the suspension to limit travel. The extra fluid force puts more stress on the washer stacks which are then being run in the max range of their preload. This cause the stacks to fatigue faster. But adding a stiffer spring, you let the spring limit travel, and you get more valve settings to play with.
RE: torquing at load, it depends on the bushing design. Most lower mounts are free moving poly or rubber type so they do not experience preload. IF the lower is bonded then it should be torqued at load. Most uppers are rubber and bonded but the upper does not experience much misalignment.
One that is true though is that the spring is an excellent noise magnifier. It will resonate on nearly any sound in the area which makes noise diagnoses an even greater challenge.
Mike
__________________
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
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#327
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Figs,
That was an awesome explanation and I thank you for it.
I never considered this washer stack being something that could potentially fatigue and because of this it took so long for me to identify the problem since I dismissed the shock.
Furthermore, about 4 months ago I removed the offending shock, took it apart, but didn't see anything obviously wrong and actually reinstalled it up until replacing it yesterday with a brand new one.
So for the folks that are getting a rattling at low speed over uneven surfaces and nothing seems to fix it, check those shocks!
Figs, you wouldn't happen to have an image or a cross sectional view of this washer stack and what exactly can potentially fatigue?
That was an awesome explanation and I thank you for it.
I never considered this washer stack being something that could potentially fatigue and because of this it took so long for me to identify the problem since I dismissed the shock.
Furthermore, about 4 months ago I removed the offending shock, took it apart, but didn't see anything obviously wrong and actually reinstalled it up until replacing it yesterday with a brand new one.
So for the folks that are getting a rattling at low speed over uneven surfaces and nothing seems to fix it, check those shocks!
Figs, you wouldn't happen to have an image or a cross sectional view of this washer stack and what exactly can potentially fatigue?
#328
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I found a good writeup on coilover components here. http://www.billavista.com/tech/Artic..._Bible_Part_1/
You can see the washer stacks in this shot
![](http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/Coilover_Bible_Part_1/images/shocks/rebound_discs.jpg)
![](http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/Coilover_Bible_Part_1/images/shocks/rebound_discs_off.jpg)
just think of them as a stock of precision wafers that create a resistance to the fluid trying to pass through them.
Mike
You can see the washer stacks in this shot
![](http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/Coilover_Bible_Part_1/images/shocks/rebound_discs.jpg)
![](http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/Coilover_Bible_Part_1/images/shocks/rebound_discs_off.jpg)
just think of them as a stock of precision wafers that create a resistance to the fluid trying to pass through them.
Mike
__________________
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
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#329
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Figs, thanks for the useful summary.
So that begs the question. Who out there makes the highest quality C/O dampers. Not sure I would buy Megan again.
When using non C/O, I always stick with Bilsteins because I they are considered to be top notch in terms of quality. Does Bilstein make a C/O for our cars?
So that begs the question. Who out there makes the highest quality C/O dampers. Not sure I would buy Megan again.
When using non C/O, I always stick with Bilsteins because I they are considered to be top notch in terms of quality. Does Bilstein make a C/O for our cars?
#330
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Figs, thanks for the useful summary.
So that begs the question. Who out there makes the highest quality C/O dampers. Not sure I would buy Megan again.
When using non C/O, I always stick with Bilsteins because I they are considered to be top notch in terms of quality. Does Bilstein make a C/O for our cars?
So that begs the question. Who out there makes the highest quality C/O dampers. Not sure I would buy Megan again.
When using non C/O, I always stick with Bilsteins because I they are considered to be top notch in terms of quality. Does Bilstein make a C/O for our cars?