tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

you can try contacting the OP as he visits from time to time i think... I would just get the febest ones from eBay..

TableSyrup

I just put in the Febest ones on Saturday. Took me about 3 1/2 hours to do both sides.... one side fought me the entire way lol....
Did this on jack stands. Would have been faster from a lift. Also would have been faster with a second set of hands.

I bought a ball joint press/puller from Harbor Freight for $80 to help with the job.
I still had to use a socket for pushing... and didn't have one of a thin enough wall to work on the outer 'race' , so I used something like a 24mm....
This pushed on the boot of the old one (which obviously ripped the old boot), but there is a machined smaller I.D. that the boot grabs, and that is what I pushed on... it is still part of the outer 'race' ...
Putting the new one in, I removed the boot, and just put the boot back on after installation. I highly recommend this to anyone doing this job without the exact right size parts for pushing, so you don't mess up the boot on the new one... it's easy to remove and reinstall, so just do it.

I also used some threadall, nuts and washers (with the receiver and socket), to get the new ones started.... the tools are pretty big and bulky, and getting these started straight is a bit delicate... so I would advise this as well, especially if you are working alone from the ground.

Parts look to be of good quality. I'm slightly confused by the warranty documentation.... One piece of paper says 1 Year warranty, and another piece says all their parts are covered for at least 60,000 KM ...

Hopefully I won't have to find out which it is... 60,000 KM is only like 38,000 Miles... hmmm

Like I said, parts look great..... All materials and machining look great.... really...

I bought them directly from the Febest website here:
http://febestparts.com/ARM_BUSHING_R...EMBLY/TAB-124Z

$17.95 each. Not bad for what appears to be a quality German part.

If I have any issues, I'll chime back in on this thread
(For my use, Keyword: TableSyrup)

--------
In regards to the press I bought from Harbor Freight... it is meant for Ball Joints.... It did not have the correct size sleeve for pushing... and I knew this would be the case when I bought it... I needed it for other ball joints I'll be doing with a friend, so I figured it would get used anyway.... but, I will be going back and grabbing the extra case of adapters for this thing for an additional $50 .... which may have the right sizes for this job... shoulda just grabbed it then lol..... so heads up - With the adapters, Harbor Freight would run ya $150 + tax (Ask them to give you their standard 20% off coupon... they nearly always will)... Well worth the money, and you'll have everything you need to press even more stuff. (I think it will work for my caster arm bushings even... definitely will for control arm bushings and whatnot....)
I should also note, the cups that go in the tool will hold a lot of different size sleeves... more than what's in the kit really, and the sleeves are just tube... so I'll be grabbing tube sizes as I need them from my local metal supplier (CHEAP, especially if from the scrap piles)
Press Kit: http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-jo...cles-4065.html
Adapters: http://www.harborfreight.com/master-...4pc-60307.html

komar

iTrader: (1)

I just installed these from ROCAR I did not replace the inner arm bush. I wish I took some pics of the replacement bearing and the old one but they look identical to the eye.


http://www.rocar-usa.com/product.php...roducts_id=776

My bearing was hard to remove. I rented tool from AutoZone, and it worked well. I had to push the bearing out toward the rear. When I started to push to the front it actually broke loose and the center section came loose. At that time I panicked and started looking for the magic socket size to start pushing the hell out of the whole outer case. Once the driver (R&D) side was complete, the pass side took like 30 min.

Also added new Tien Coilovers and FIGS toe links. very excited to get the car height adjusted and finalize alignment specs. hoping this will cure my inner tire wear.

Thanks for the original write-up!


KOMAR

daddyduke

I plan to do this on labor day.I have the figs solids my question is when pressing in the bushings do I press on the top off the outer top or the inner part.im not talking about the bearing but the part around it inside.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

When installing the new bearing you can just use the flat adapter. The load should be applied to the outer diameter. If you apply load to the inside you'll ruin the bearing. Mike

daddyduke

Thanks alot mike for helping me I love your products.

joebor1776

Are the pictures from the OP DIY still available? Seems like they disappeared just within the last few days. I'd like to try this replacement this weekend, with the febest parts, was hoping to use this DIY.
Thanks!

lyonkster

Ugh, looks like ImageShack deleted all the images. Let me see how much of a time sink it would be to reload them into Photobucket, I'll do it if it's not a half day project.

lyonkster

Done, back in business.

joebor1776

Thanks man, I appreciate it! I have been fighting this thing all day. Got the old bushing out with a rented balljoint press without much trouble. But getting the new febest bushing in has been impossible so far. Can't seem to get it going in straight. Does it have to be started perfectly straight? Or will it correct itself after it starts? I'm afraid to force it when it's going in crooked. I've tried hitting it with a sledge to start it, but can't get it straight. I'm doing the freezer thing on the bushing and heating the hole with a torch, still no luck.

Thanks!

lyonkster

Sorry, I wish I could help. Mine went in very easily, no heat or freezer, just a bit of oil. I'd think you want to get them started straight. Can you check the OD's of the old and new bushings as a sanity check?

joebor1776

Thanks, I finally got it in, had to start it using the washers/nut method that some others recommended on here (I had just forgotten about that until I re-read everything :-)). Then I was fighting with getting the camber bolt back on (couldn't get it aligned with the hole until I jacked the arm way up), finally got that. What a job, hope it's worth it! Basically been at it for six hours. I sure appreciate your DIY though!

lyonkster

Good job, congrats!

joebor1776

Thanks. Solved the knocking noise. I just realized though that I torqued the bolts AFTER lowering the jacked-up suspension arm. Too late now, probably any damage to the bushing/bearing has already been done, I guess.

joebor1776

Turns out replacing these bearings did NOT fix my knocking noise. From other posts, it sounds like it might be strut mounts.

Also, just to weigh in on the Febest bearings, I didn't really like the way they fit--when I torqued the camber bolt, the sides of the control arm bent in a bit before it really started to press against the opening of the bearing, and the boots were pressed up against the sides of the control arm. We'll see how long they last. It does feel like it improved the ride a bit though.