joedad

Spc products has just come out with a camber adjuster specifically for the 06-12 is RWD models. It is part #67530, it has the correct taper for the spindle unlike the #67525 (00-05) which some have used in the newer is's. They want $185 each buy you can get both for $185/free shipping from Import Auto Performance (IAP.com). I haven't installed mine yet, a winter project while car is in storage. Will know how good they are in the spring. Hope this helps resolve my front tire inner tread wear problem.

10lexISR6

iTrader: (1)

I think you just sumerized the last 4 pages of this topics thread.

joedad

Get both for $185 + free shipping with IAP.com. When you get them they will look like they aren't greased, they are, I called SPC to make sure. Takes about a week to get them. SPC wants $185 ea. so IAP is the only way to go. The taper for the is300 is not correct and can cause the aluminum spindle to wear and possible fracture over time, I don't know how long it takes but it's a possibility. These new ones a 06+ is250.350 specific. I saw a thread with part #67575, that is wrong, the number is #67530, I have them both in front of me as I type.

sick

iTrader: (1)

^ Get them through Circuitms its $179 shipped!

joedad

That price is even better yet. Have you installed them yet? All I want to do is get 0 camber and about 0.05 combined toe-in. The instructions say if you want more than +.5 camber you need to grind down the front lip down a small amount to allow the slider full range. Factory camber on my 09 is250 is -.9 left and -.8 right with 0.08 combined toe -in. I just had Lexus do an alignment last fri. and those are their final readings. I haven't had a problem with rear tire wear, just the front.
Rear camber kit (Megen (?) ) is too expensive and involved for me.

sick

iTrader: (1)

^ NO, not yet. I'm acutally trying to get more neg camber. What is you camber at now at what ride height?

joedad

My 09 is250 is stock height and the factory (unadjustable) camber is at -.9 left and -.8 right with 0.08 combined toe-in just set at Lexus last fri.. At this much neg. camber I am wearing out the inner tread of the front tires way to fast (12K-15K). More neg. camber only makes the tires run more on the inner tread which results in more wear. Also, the caster setting is very important (bushing rubber may wear/crack early) to reduce tire wear so make sure that setting is within factory specs. Have you lowered your is? If so I'd think that you would want to go towards as close to 0 as possible so the tires run flat across the tread on the road surface. The "sport suspension" setting Lexus has (neg. camber) is intended primarily for fast cornering which I, and most people, don't do on a regular basis.
Factory camber range ( even though it's not adjustable) is -1.5 (way too agressive for me and my tires) to +.4 (a little too far past flat for me, gives to much tire roll on corners), I just wish Lexus would have made the camber adjustable from the get go!!

sick

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, my car's lowered. I'm actually not trying to correct. I'm wanting the neg camber for wheel/tire clearance.

joedad

Now I understand. This kit does +/- 1.5 camber. The -1.5 setting probable will give you the clearance you need. Keep us posted.

10lexISR6

iTrader: (1)

hmm... im upset, i wish SPC would have developed these some 5 years ago when this model became available, then people like myself would not have had to spend the money on the alternative possibly catastrophic wrong part. For whats its worth, while i had the IS300 ball joints on my 2010 is250 they did a phenomenal job. My daily drive is 80 miles round trip through a fun fast twisty canyon road. I fully use the capabilities of my IS. Im excited to install my new F-sport struts with my eibachs this week then hopefully the sway bars soon to maximize driving pleasure. But now it appears i must cop out some dough on some new-er ball joints... FML.

joedad

While the taper difference is minimal there is the possibility that on acceleration and deceleration there may be some very small movement inside the spindle. I'm thinking that this is more of a torque on the nut than a definate consequence of the is300 balljoint. A lot of people have used the older os300 kit for years with absolutely no problem. I only brought it up as a "remote" possibility. If I were you, I wouldn't panic.
Have you done the Megan rear camber adjuster? I think I will just to keep all the tires on the same plane. I might do -0.1 neg camber with 0.05 combined toe-in up front with -0.i neg camber with 0.00 toe-in at the rear. I want max. tire wear. What are your alignment specs. set at now?
I'm also thinking of urathane caster bushings up front. The urathane last much longer and I read that it gives a better sense of handling.

joedad

While the taper difference is minimal there is the possibility that on acceleration and deceleration there may be some very small movement inside the spindle. I'm thinking that this is more of a torque on the nut than a definate consequence of the is300 balljoint. A lot of people have used the older os300 kit for years with absolutely no problem. I only brought it up as a "remote" possibility. If I were you, I wouldn't panic.
Have you done the Megan rear camber adjuster? I think I will just to keep all the tires on the same plane. I might do -0.1 neg camber with 0.05 combined toe-in up front with -0.i neg camber with 0.00 toe-in at the rear. I want max. tire wear. What are your alignment specs. set at now?
I'm also thinking of urathane caster bushings up front. The urathane last much longer and I read that it gives a better sense of handling.
OOPS !!!! Sorry about the double post, I didn't think the first one went through.
At least 10Lexis6 all you have to do is pop the spindle and unbolt the ball joint, no pressint h the old one out. The slider etc. are the same, just the joint is different. Check the thread about $179 shipped, beats IAP by a few bucks.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

If you guys think -0.9 degrees of camber will cause inside edge wear, you're listening to someone without any clue about alignments. Camber wear starts to be a problem at -2.5 degrees.

If you have lowered your car AND your toe is incorrect, you'll see accelerated wear. If you have NOT lowered your car and the toe is incorrect, you'll see accelerated wear.

No responsible alignment tech would ever zero out front camber!

Suggesting it as a "solution" is uniformed at best and extremely dangerous at worst. If you want to turn your car into a front slide happy monster, zero out the camber.

10lexISR6

iTrader: (1)

so......... what? zero out the toe up front? is that what youre suggesting?

joedad

All I can do is relate my own experience with my 09 is250 RWD. The Factory spec sheet says the camber limits ( and still be in spec) are neg 1.5 to pos 0.4 and my unadjustable is neg. -0.9 both left and right sides. The Factory toe specs are( neg. -0.04 pos. +0.12) mine are set by Lexus shop at +0.05 left and +0.03 righ andt with total toe spec of (neg -0.08 to pos0.24) the shop set mine at +0.08. I have had alignments done twice a year and still get premature wear up front. The tech said that the caster is close to being in the red and that when I bring it out of winter storage I should get new caster bushings. When I put he camber kit on he also suggested that I set ithe camber at neg. -0.2 to neg. -0.4 (max) with toe at 0.02 lt. and 0.03 rt. with a total toe of 0.05 front. The rear camber spec range is (neg. -1.9 to neg. -0.4) both sides and mine is at neg.-0.7 both sides and the spec for toe is (0.04 to 0.20) mine is 0.12 lt. and 0.13 rt.. (NOTE: all these measurements are in degrees not inches) Have no issues with the rear tire wear as the wear is even all across the tread.
Even the tech at Lexus said that they are seeing early front tire wear on their unadjustablt camber cars. Aside from the camber and toe problem he said that a bad caster will cause just as much damage to the front tires. That is why I plan on getting my caster brought back into spec. and not just ride around with the caster bearly within the lowest limit..