Redical

I'm in the process of buying parts for a gixxer_drew setup. I was about to pull the trigger on some Bilstein HD AK1242/AK1243 but a friend at work told me he has some leftover parts from his supra, including some bilsteins that he'll give me cheap.

I can't find anything specific about this so I'm hoping someone knows.. Is there a difference between the Supra TT factory option yellow Toyota branded Bilsteins, and the current Bilstein HD AK1242/AK1243?

Thanks

atlsupdawg

Doing the same, albeit with Bilstein SN motorsport shocks, but I believe the HD's are revalved for higher spring rates. Not really sure if the piston design is changed in those (linear vs. digressive).

SEXC

iTrader: (2)

The stock version is valve for a more comfortable ride.

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

Good luck to you on the project! Youre going to need it big time, filiing the sleeves to perfection( not and easy task, and its very time consuming and frustrating)
It might be easier for you though let us know how it goes.

I cut my sleeves last night and tried fitting the shock into the sleeve for 4 hours still couldn't get the *****es in.
I'm giving up and going different route

Redical

I think a few people have used the OEM Bilstein shocks without any issues. mr2tosc4 from this forum used them and he didn't say anything issues fitting the sleeves. Which sleeves did you use? Which shocks were you using?

Redical

Can you link me to this information or explain how you know? I've searched all over and so far cannot find any data on the USDM OEM Supra Bilsteins, or the JDM Supra RZ Bilsteins which is what I have.

BartleDoo

iTrader: (1)

If you have the correct sleeves and shocks then sliding the properly cut sleeves over the shocks should be very easy. Something must be wrong with your setup LEXXIUM.

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

I got it done the right way! The shocks were bs 1242+1243, 4 bs sleeve kits + ers springs
Another reason I didnt want to cut sleeves is because I had longer springs already.


I didnt have to cut any of the sleeves. I took all my shocks to the local machine shop to have a grooves cut 2.5" below the bottom bilstein groove and slid the whole sleeve right over it.

(no cutting needed)

It looks great! Handles fantastic! Very quiet, tight, firm, and reponsive! Drives even more awesome now. I am on the 10" springs all the way around and and have plenty of adjustability up or down.

This suspension beats any aftermarket coilover period! It just rocks! 500f 350r

My 2c

LEX_MAN

iTrader: (2)

I'm gona back LEXXIUM up, i was there when he was trying to install them, they did not fit.

Redical

Just in case someone else has this question in the future.. It's been about 3000 miles on the JDM Bilstein and Hyperco setup, and it has softened up a lot. The ride is firm but comfy, rarely bouncy, solid, and I think it feels like it should. Don't hesitate in buying OE supra bilsteins, they will work for a gixxer_drew setup.

SCV8

I believe the rear valving is firmer with the aftermarket Bilsteins, and is the same valving as developed by TRD for motorsports from what I recall somewhere in the coilover thread.

When I installed the aftermarket Bilsteins, replacing my (non Bilstein) oem Supra TT shocks, the ride, and handling were identical. The rear Bilstein replacements were much firmer, however.

I think that the chassis rigidity could be stronger in the SC over the Supra perhaps; the SC has a back seat structure, the Supra doesn't. To balance the car, I would have settled for less firmness in the back, and the stiff aftermarket Bilsteins didn't really help. I'd say the OEM Bilsteins should be the ticket on a street driven car.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

MEGABUMP!

Is this mod just to fit the factory Bilstein, or for the HD as well? Is this a better way to go for all?

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

This mod uses bilstein shocks for supra MK IV, why I ended up doing was machine shop cut another groove lowe on the bilstein shock so the sleeves sit properly o the shocks without being cut
That setup was too soft so I had to ditch the ers fronts they were too soft at 550lb I'm now ready for 800 to 850 to 500 to 550 rear for more aggressive ride

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Pardon my lack of understanding this but i thought the bottom was cut because there is a non tapered smaller diameter strip on the bottom end of the sleeve that is too big to get over the c-clamp.
Are they making a new groove AND moving the c-clamp to it? If so and the stop in the bottom of the sleeve is not tapered, wouldn't it exert a shearing force on the clamp instead of squeezing it into the shock body? Or would you turn the sleeve over?
Where is the groove made and how deep. I may do this. Do you have pictures?
I REALLY want to get this right.
I also heard of people taking the sleeve to a machine shop to cut the raised section out of the bottom of the sleeve leaving only the taper inside on the top of the sleeve.