SPC Front camber Top Nut
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SPC Front camber Top Nut
Anyone install these yet?
With all the suspension components connected, I am having a problem trying to tighten the
top nut on the SPC camber kit.
The specs calls for the top nut to be tighten to 150 ft/lb. There's not enough room to get a
adjustable wrench in there, much less a torque wrench with a socket.
With a medium size wrench, the end of the wrench is hitting the upper fender or the frame of the car. I am unable to turn the wrench in any direction without hitting something on the car.
Any suggestions. thanks
With all the suspension components connected, I am having a problem trying to tighten the
top nut on the SPC camber kit.
The specs calls for the top nut to be tighten to 150 ft/lb. There's not enough room to get a
adjustable wrench in there, much less a torque wrench with a socket.
With a medium size wrench, the end of the wrench is hitting the upper fender or the frame of the car. I am unable to turn the wrench in any direction without hitting something on the car.
Any suggestions. thanks
#2
Anyone install these yet?
With all the suspension components connected, I am having a problem trying to tighten the
top nut on the SPC camber kit.
The specs calls for the top nut to be tighten to 150 ft/lb. There's not enough room to get a
adjustable wrench in there, much less a torque wrench with a socket.
With a medium size wrench, the end of the wrench is hitting the upper fender or the frame of the car. I am unable to turn the wrench in any direction without hitting something on the car.
Any suggestions. thanks
With all the suspension components connected, I am having a problem trying to tighten the
top nut on the SPC camber kit.
The specs calls for the top nut to be tighten to 150 ft/lb. There's not enough room to get a
adjustable wrench in there, much less a torque wrench with a socket.
With a medium size wrench, the end of the wrench is hitting the upper fender or the frame of the car. I am unable to turn the wrench in any direction without hitting something on the car.
Any suggestions. thanks
If you have the camber where you need it now and you can't get to the nut, make sure the nut is tight then pop the spindle again and drop the bottom arm, then the upper arm will be able to drop also so you can access the nut with a torque wrench. Use a jack stand and have a friend help so the car doesn't move on ya. I thought that SPC only calls for 120 ft/lbs. torque on the top nut, that's what my instruction sheet calls for. I haven't put then in yet on my '09 is250.
Click on the "Vendor" tab at top of this page and scroll down to FIGSENGINEERING they have some awesome front "upper arms" for camber AND caster adjusting and rear "lower arm" for camber adjustments. They look great, I might wait for them instead of the SPC's and Megan rear arms.
#3
SPC top nut
Jack it up and take the tire off, if you've done that then here is all I could suggest.
If you have the camber where you need it now and you can't get to the nut, make sure the nut is tight then pop the spindle again and drop the bottom arm, then the upper arm will be able to drop also so you can access the nut with a torque wrench. Use a jack stand and have a friend help so the car doesn't move on ya. I thought that SPC only calls for 120 ft/lbs. torque on the top nut, that's what my instruction sheet calls for. I haven't put then in yet on my '09 is250.
Click on the "Vendor" tab at top of this page and scroll down to FIGSENGINEERING they have some awesome front "upper arms" for camber AND caster adjusting and rear "lower arm" for camber adjustments. They look great, I might wait for them instead of the SPC's and Megan rear arms.
If you have the camber where you need it now and you can't get to the nut, make sure the nut is tight then pop the spindle again and drop the bottom arm, then the upper arm will be able to drop also so you can access the nut with a torque wrench. Use a jack stand and have a friend help so the car doesn't move on ya. I thought that SPC only calls for 120 ft/lbs. torque on the top nut, that's what my instruction sheet calls for. I haven't put then in yet on my '09 is250.
Click on the "Vendor" tab at top of this page and scroll down to FIGSENGINEERING they have some awesome front "upper arms" for camber AND caster adjusting and rear "lower arm" for camber adjustments. They look great, I might wait for them instead of the SPC's and Megan rear arms.
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update
Until I can get to a garage with proper tools, I came up with a temporary solution. I went out and bought this 1/2" T-Bar flexible ratchet.
Sorry for the blurry pics. T-bar works perfectly. Nut is still on tight.
#6
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
sick: The clunk is the ball joint sliding around, it happened to me when I first installed it. I got an alignment done at firestone and they torqued it to 100 ft-lbs, and no more noise.
typer: Good find with the ratchet. Are you able to torque it down to 100-120 ft-lbs?
typer: Good find with the ratchet. Are you able to torque it down to 100-120 ft-lbs?
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The clunking noise from the balljoint went away after I tighten the top nut. But I been getting some weird squeaking sound from the front when I hit bumps. I believe its coming from the coilovers. The ride is a little harsh, I figure that was more related to running thinner size tires. I still need to adjust the dampening setting. Right now fronts and backs are set to 8 on Megan Ez.
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sick: The clunk is the ball joint sliding around, it happened to me when I first installed it. I got an alignment done at firestone and they torqued it to 100 ft-lbs, and no more noise.
typer: Good find with the ratchet. Are you able to torque it down to 100-120 ft-lbs?
typer: Good find with the ratchet. Are you able to torque it down to 100-120 ft-lbs?
#9
SPC top nut
joedad, totally forgot about this thread. You were right, the only correct way to tighten that top nut is to pop the spindle and drop the bottom arm, allowing the upper arm to drop down some to fit a torque wrench.
Until I can get to a garage with proper tools, I came up with a temporary solution. I went out and bought this 1/2" T-Bar flexible ratchet.
Sorry for the blurry pics. T-bar works perfectly. Nut is still on tight.
Until I can get to a garage with proper tools, I came up with a temporary solution. I went out and bought this 1/2" T-Bar flexible ratchet.
Sorry for the blurry pics. T-bar works perfectly. Nut is still on tight.
Great lookin' ride! What year and where did you get the rear & front lips, and how much? Were they painted you car's color from the seller?
That socket really got you up into the well didn't it? You most likely were able to tighten it to 120ft/lbs already if you put enough "oomph" behind it. Where did you get the wrench?
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In my situation, the clunking sound would happen when I hit bumps and turn in either direction. That's when I realize the top nut was loose causing the balljoint to slide back and forth making that clunking sound.
Its possible that your top nut could be loose too.
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Great lookin' ride! What year and where did you get the rear & front lips, and how much? Were they painted you car's color from the seller?
That socket really got you up into the well didn't it? You most likely were able to tighten it to 120ft/lbs already if you put enough "oomph" behind it. Where did you get the wrench?
That socket really got you up into the well didn't it? You most likely were able to tighten it to 120ft/lbs already if you put enough "oomph" behind it. Where did you get the wrench?
Lip kit are the Lexus optional GFX kit. I bought the kit from Sewell lexus, I believe you can buy them painted as well. Had mine painted locally, you can tell the color is off.
I bought the T-bar ratchet from Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/t-bar-w...het-66434.html
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I bought the ratchet from Harbor Freight (link in previous post). And you will need a 27mm size socket to fit the nut.