sticky calipers, even after buying new ones
#1
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I got new pads, rotors and calipers, and my front brakes are still sticky. I even flushed the old fluid out and put in new fluid. according to the previous owner, he put on braided supra brake lines. could that be my problem? or could it be my brake booster?
#3
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
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if the line is kinked it will hold pressure to the caliper, thats why you never let the caliper hang by just the hose when taking it off. you can use a thermometer infrared gun to see which rotor is the hottest therefore sticking. i think they have one at harbor fright for like 30$. mine were stuck so bad i could see it glowing red at night
#4
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Because my brakes smoke frm time to time. Right before they start to smoke, my steering wheel shakes very violently. And I hardly even have to touch the brakes to stop.
I didn't let them hang when I put I took off the old ones or put the new ones on. I used heavy duty zip ties to hold them up. Both wheels start to smoke pretty much at the same time.
if the line is kinked it will hold pressure to the caliper, thats why you never let the caliper hang by just the hose when taking it off. you can use a thermometer infrared gun to see which rotor is the hottest therefore sticking. i think they have one at harbor fright for like 30$. mine were stuck so bad i could see it glowing red at night
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#9
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Dude the ABS unit is a very simple swap, it's bleeding everything that takes the longest. I am in the middle of the same problem, and have new calipers, lines, rotors, and pads on order. I already tried the ABS unit swap and that wasn't it. I talked to the owner of the shop that I take my Z to, and he said that without a doubt it would be my lines, especially since I am not having any type of ABS code being thrown.
Hope this helps!
Hope this helps!
#10
Intermediate
iTrader: (6)
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did your re use anything like shims clips etc....?? if both are smoking its probably abs related im guesing the abs control module... most abs systems have 2 valves one for front brakes and one for the rear if the fronts open it explains why it doesnt take much to stop when they start smoking. somthing is causing the abs to think it needs to open the valve
#11
Intermediate
iTrader: (6)
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Dude the ABS unit is a very simple swap, it's bleeding everything that takes the longest. I am in the middle of the same problem, and have new calipers, lines, rotors, and pads on order. I already tried the ABS unit swap and that wasn't it. I talked to the owner of the shop that I take my Z to, and he said that without a doubt it would be my lines, especially since I am not having any type of ABS code being thrown.
Hope this helps!
Hope this helps!
#12
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The vibration occurs after tapping the brake pedal, and then, when on the highway, will gradually just go away, until the point where I have to hit the brakes again. From the way he explained it, whatever is wrong with the line will not allow fluid to flow back out of the caliper because there isn't enough force pushing it out of the caliper, so I won't notice a problem when braking, but after braking is when the caliper tries to hold and slowly releases, which causes the vibration. At least that is what is going on with mine. I'll call him a liar though if my new parts don't fix the problem...lol
#14
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The vibration occurs after tapping the brake pedal, and then, when on the highway, will gradually just go away, until the point where I have to hit the brakes again. From the way he explained it, whatever is wrong with the line will not allow fluid to flow back out of the caliper because there isn't enough force pushing it out of the caliper, so I won't notice a problem when braking, but after braking is when the caliper tries to hold and slowly releases, which causes the vibration. At least that is what is going on with mine. I'll call him a liar though if my new parts don't fix the problem...lol
that is exactly what my brakes are doing.
#15
Intermediate
iTrader: (6)
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The vibration occurs after tapping the brake pedal, and then, when on the highway, will gradually just go away, until the point where I have to hit the brakes again. From the way he explained it, whatever is wrong with the line will not allow fluid to flow back out of the caliper because there isn't enough force pushing it out of the caliper, so I won't notice a problem when braking, but after braking is when the caliper tries to hold and slowly releases, which causes the vibration. At least that is what is going on with mine. I'll call him a liar though if my new parts don't fix the problem...lol