Today my friend and I attempted to flush my brake fluid and while bleeding the first wheel (front driver) and tying the nipple back in.... The piece of the rotor around it broke in pieces like cheap plastic. I used a socket and the broken pieces showed no rust. Now I am worried if the same will happen again in a different corner.



Have anybody encountered anything like that? Any ideas what might have caused this?

 

never happened to me. your too strong.

 

overtorquing.....ratchets are stronger than you think

 

hmmmm I will attempt the next corner tomorrow as soon as replacing the broken caliper. I'll try to be more gentle

 

Update: I installed the new caliper a few days ago and its definitely way tougher than the old one. Tightened the nipple and its still intact with no signs of wear. Perhaps the heat got to it over the years?

Also I am having a leak from the bolt attached to the flex hose. I tried adding the 2 oem washers it still leaks. Added the 2 thick washers came with the new caliper, wouldnt tighten up. I used a thick and a thin washer, still wouldnt tighten up enough and leak. I even switched their positions. I tried all sorts of combinations and no bueno. My brakes are dead loose, which makes the car unsafe to drive at all. Any suggestions?

 

How did you resolve this.

 

if the caliper is new and the hose is old replace the hose

 

If you're not too good on sort of feeling how much to tighten the bolts I recommend getting a torque wrench. If you still have the original brake lines you should replace them since I'm sure they have suffer as much if not more than your calipers.

 

just replace the zerk fitting, not the caliper. and you dont need 50 lb/f to tighten it

 

Thanks for the replies. Hose been replaced although it wasnt the problem and I convinced myself that its too old and needed to be replaced anyway. The contact point where the hose is shooting fluid into the bolt into the caliper was leaking and fluid would go along the hose and would drip from the lowest point of the hose creating the illusion that the hose is bad. Although this isnt the case.

Anyway I went back to advanced auto and told them caliper dont fit right (apparently where the bolt goes in, threads got stripped) so they replaced it for no extra charge. Just gotta wait until Friday -_-

How much should I tighten the bolt? I put the old caliper back on (the one in the picture) and running with no brake pressure (and have been for the past 10 days). I tightened the bolt on the old caliper to the max and its tight and nice. Only leaks from the broken nipple (I wish I gathered the pieces and welded them back on or something)

Ill keep u guys posted.

 

U mean re-drill/remake the hole where the nipple goes? The nipple wont even go in as the place where it should be screwed is completely broken. It wont go in at all because there is no thread to hold it in place and I suspect that it would ever hold tightly on the old caliper. Please elaborate

 

I'm guessing he is referring to retapping the hole.

 

Re: Torque. Start at 16.9 nm (newton meters). You can probably go to 25 nm but I wouldn't go much higher without finding a torque specifications table. I have complete torque specs for my BMW but I don't have them for my SC.

 

Thanks, Ill look those specs up. We'll see how it goes Friday morning

 

Ok, new caliper arrived early. Installed and back in the game... apparently I was too aggressive when I tightened the bolt, and using thin oem washers didnt help. The new one came with 2 thick washers I used those and tightened just enough and it held in place. Bled the fluid and no leaks so far (from that side at least). Will check again in the weekend. Brakes are tight again... effffff..... rough past 10 days lol

What I noticed is these after market ones dont compare to the toughness of the OEM ones. Honestly I dont feel too bad it broke off anymore... at least it held up 17 years and took it like a OG. Ill replace calipers and hoses on other sides in the spring.