mk4r34

iTrader: (1)

Lowered on Megan coils.I've replaced the fronts with camber bolt/bushings and at one point a couple years ago me and my dad(Honda engineer)attempted to do the rears but,for the life of us we couldn't get the top arm bolts out!!They are seized/rusted in there it seems(never again get a northern car).So I've been running my 265-35-18 with negative(L)-1.8-(R)-2.0 camber and they are wearing pretty quickly at the wear bar now....soooo is there another substitute to get that camber out just a little so I don't get the bad tire wear?Do they have camber plates for the rear?Anything?

Thanks

ArodDaLob

iTrader: (14)

Yep, the ruca bolts can be a huge pita. I had to use a 5 ft long breaker bar to get enough torque to get mine loose, and they werent even rusted.
As for camber, camber plates arent offered, mainly bc theyd be useless as camber plates only work on macpherson strut setups, while the sc has double wishbones in all 4 corners. Youd have to go adjustable arms or shorten the rlca. I had alex pfeiffer at battle version shorten mine and am currently running about 1.5 which isnt too much considering my ride height.
Another thing to look into is your toe adjustment. a lotta times, people wont be able to correct their camber due to the limitations of stock toe adjustments. also, toe is a bigger tire killer than camber, so id make sure the toe is close to zero.

mk4r34

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info,my only 2xconcerns were the toe/camber the toe in the rear is pretty straight(check sheet again)so no worries there just the -2.0 camber which is eating the tires up fairly quick.I think the stock camber is maxed out or that's what the alignment guy said he can get out of it.Would the adjustable toe arms bars actually maybe help bring the camber in a little?enough that I could be riding around -1.0?Maybe he said it is maxed out cause he can't adjust the toe?....So did Alex just cut/shorten and re-weld the bottom arm?

ArodDaLob

iTrader: (14)

I wouldnt know. Youd have to check yourself. Get behind and under the car, and youll see the cammed bolt with a dial on it that connects the rlca to the subframe on the bottom corners of the back of the subframe. If the dial is facing towards the outside of the car, then youre close or already maxed out. If its centered, you probably have about .5 to 1 degree left. If its pointing inwards towards the center of the car, then youll most likely have enough to get back to stock specs
And yes, alex cut the arm, shaved off about .5" of material off the arm, then reinforced and rewelded the arm back together.