Need Help to DIY replace steering rack n pinion
#1
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Need Help to DIY replace steering rack n pinion
I loooked at the DIY for replacing the entire steering rack and pinion but came up empty handed other then the bushings. Is this a doable DIY project in your garage? I've done a lower ball joint and tie rod myself already on this 99 GS300 so have some skills and tools.
I am thinking it involves bleeding power steering fluid too??
So what I am asking is procedure to do that whole job? any online page to cover that?
I am thinking it involves bleeding power steering fluid too??
So what I am asking is procedure to do that whole job? any online page to cover that?
Last edited by bonson; 03-13-12 at 02:15 PM.
#2
Lead Lap
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There is no thread for the GS.
There is a thread for the SC though, which is generally the same thing.
If I can find it I'll relink it.
I'll be doing mine soon and I also need to get pics but its should be simple:
1. Drain fluid (theres a thread on what hose to disconnect to drain the fluid)
2. Make sure car is off; make sure steering wheel is 100% straight throughout the ENTIRE INSTALL.
3. Remove a few bolts, remove a bolt from steering column connection.
4. Remove rack, inner tie rods, outer etc.
(I thought about this, and I will be remove my entire rack completely with the outer tie rods attached, the reason for this is because I 1) want to have a rack backup incase the new rack leaks or something 2) I can attach the new outer rods at the same measurement and have the same alignment to get to the alignment shop i.e. O---<_________>---O vs O--<_________>----O , so this makes sense to me)
4. Reattach everything, tighten to tq spec
5. Add fluid as needed, and bleed system as instructed on other threads.
Only issue I forsee is that I'll need some gaskets or rubber o-rings where the lines for the powersteering attach to the hoses to the rack.
There is a thread for the SC though, which is generally the same thing.
If I can find it I'll relink it.
I'll be doing mine soon and I also need to get pics but its should be simple:
1. Drain fluid (theres a thread on what hose to disconnect to drain the fluid)
2. Make sure car is off; make sure steering wheel is 100% straight throughout the ENTIRE INSTALL.
3. Remove a few bolts, remove a bolt from steering column connection.
4. Remove rack, inner tie rods, outer etc.
(I thought about this, and I will be remove my entire rack completely with the outer tie rods attached, the reason for this is because I 1) want to have a rack backup incase the new rack leaks or something 2) I can attach the new outer rods at the same measurement and have the same alignment to get to the alignment shop i.e. O---<_________>---O vs O--<_________>----O , so this makes sense to me)
4. Reattach everything, tighten to tq spec
5. Add fluid as needed, and bleed system as instructed on other threads.
Only issue I forsee is that I'll need some gaskets or rubber o-rings where the lines for the powersteering attach to the hoses to the rack.
#4
Lead Lap
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I dont have leaks, but I'm redoing my entire suspension (bushings, arms, ball joints etc) from scratch both front and rear with camber correction arms and the like.
Rebuilt racks are what you would be purchasing as there is no such thing as a brand new rack (all parts are sold in pieces then put together). But there are companies that make new racks (oem or 'race' parts) with different internals. I'll be doing the latter.
Rebuilt racks are what you would be purchasing as there is no such thing as a brand new rack (all parts are sold in pieces then put together). But there are companies that make new racks (oem or 'race' parts) with different internals. I'll be doing the latter.
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why I am replacing
my steering has been acting goofy and I get front end clunking and you can see where the streering rack has been hit/banged hard
The alignment shop did an alignment but it didint help the steering "feel" at all.
My 2 front tires are completely beyond toast on the inside treads. fine on center and outsides.
I decide to order all my own parts and have a shop install a reman rack and pinion w/inner tie rods and new KYB struts in front along with the LH lower ball joint I haven't done myself yet. I have exus dealer parts on that LH ball joint and tie rod.
I also have the upgraded steering rack bushings from Sewell Lexus so we'll see what we think about all that at the repair shop I guess.
I also realized I need to buy P/S fluid if I figure out what kind and how much
The alignment shop did an alignment but it didint help the steering "feel" at all.
My 2 front tires are completely beyond toast on the inside treads. fine on center and outsides.
I decide to order all my own parts and have a shop install a reman rack and pinion w/inner tie rods and new KYB struts in front along with the LH lower ball joint I haven't done myself yet. I have exus dealer parts on that LH ball joint and tie rod.
I also have the upgraded steering rack bushings from Sewell Lexus so we'll see what we think about all that at the repair shop I guess.
I also realized I need to buy P/S fluid if I figure out what kind and how much
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#8
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Here's some help.
If you have loose steering, before you do the rack, go ahead and do your caster arms, lower ball joints, outer tie rods and 'check' the inner tie rods. Get some steering rack bushings and then figure it out from there.
I would then do the shocks and springs.
Get an alignment and then figure out your next step.
For p/s fluid you can use ATF toyota fluid, red.
If you have loose steering, before you do the rack, go ahead and do your caster arms, lower ball joints, outer tie rods and 'check' the inner tie rods. Get some steering rack bushings and then figure it out from there.
I would then do the shocks and springs.
Get an alignment and then figure out your next step.
For p/s fluid you can use ATF toyota fluid, red.
Last edited by justablkv8; 04-01-12 at 10:44 AM.
#9
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Txs for info. I decided to go head and get rackn pinion, tie rods, ball joints (except I already did the RH side Bal Joint and outer tie rod myself ,) front KYB strutsand will plan to swap for the upgraded rack bushings I got from Sewell first. with the age and miles I'd assume do it all at once with all the hassle it is to do it all
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how much fluid?
FLUID: Also I called local Lexus dealer parts and they sd they dont sell P/S fluid. Txs for heads up on Toyota IV red brake fluid cause I was thinking maybe it was trans fluid like the old days since Lexus says they dont sell it. you would think they woudl sell something even relabeled.
Q: What is the P/S fluid system capacity in quarts?
Q: What is the P/S fluid system capacity in quarts?
Last edited by bonson; 03-29-12 at 10:16 AM. Reason: Question
#11
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Found this:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...id-change.html
Also, this is what I bought, I bought it from the toyota dealer, very pricey though....http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accesso...1999/4374.html
There's no capacity, basically you remove the drain hose under the driver wheel well, drain all fluid and then replace the fluid and turn your steering full lock and get all the air out etc. and fill the resevoir as it depletes. Try not to constantly fill.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...id-change.html
Also, this is what I bought, I bought it from the toyota dealer, very pricey though....http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accesso...1999/4374.html
There's no capacity, basically you remove the drain hose under the driver wheel well, drain all fluid and then replace the fluid and turn your steering full lock and get all the air out etc. and fill the resevoir as it depletes. Try not to constantly fill.
#12
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Do not put brake fluid in the power steering.
Our cars use regular ATF DEXTRON II or III for the power steering fluid.
3 quarts should be more than enough to do the job.
Good luck...
Our cars use regular ATF DEXTRON II or III for the power steering fluid.
3 quarts should be more than enough to do the job.
Good luck...
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