Reesetrict

iTrader: (1)

Evidently my largest metric socket it 24mm and that wont cut it. I have to buy a new one for this job, what size is the bolt so I make sure I get the one I need. I plan on buying a set, but with my luck it would skip the one size I actually need.

Reesetrict

iTrader: (1)

Screw me.... I used more effective search terms and found the answer.

32mm

and here are some keywords in case someone needs to look in the future.

rotor, brakes, brake, wheel bearing, nut, hub, supra, LS400, LS, 400, TT, how to, diy

Luxor

iTrader: (15)

You do not need to remove the hub nut to change the rotors.

Reesetrict

iTrader: (1)

How are the rotors held on?
My steps so far.
remove caliper bolts and brake line
remove caliper
remove cotter pin
remove funky silver hub nut cover/washer

Luxor

iTrader: (15)

They are most likely rusted onto the hub. To get the rotor free off the hub, you need 1 or 2 bolts that will screw into the little holes you see in the picture. When you screw these bolts in, the bolt will push against the hub and then the rotor will "pop" off.

You took too many steps, all you need to do is remove the brake calipers then the rotors will come off.

Here is an example of what I'm talking about:

AnonymousG

iTrader: (2)

Or if you have a rubber mallet, give it a couple whacks on opposite ends.

Dougspeed

iTrader: (2)

^^^ this, works nearly everytime.

raine

iTrader: (7)

+1

hit - rotate - hit - rotate - hit - rotate - done. You're replacing the rotors anyways so damaging the current ones with the mallet/hammer is trivial.

Don't forget to release the parking brake in the rear, since those grab the rotor from the inside.

SChema

iTrader: (2)

If you are still having issues with the rear rotors not coming off even with the parking brake off. You'll have to collapse the brake shoes by rotating the star adjustment wheel. Over time a lip can be formed on the drum of the rotor causing shoes to catch the lip of the rotor.

Rotate the rotor until you point the access hole of the rotor straight down (hole in between wheel studs). Use a flat head screw driver to lift up or push down until the rotor is free.

Reesetrict

iTrader: (1)

Actually I havent attempted to pull it yet. My gf convinced me that I need to finish walling out my in-wall reef tank and refinishing the cabinets before doing any significant work to the car.... and I just finished painting the calipers today. Rotor pull will probably happen tomo


Edit: I have a rubber mallet and will give that a go. If it doesnt work Ill upgrade to one of the 25 hammers Ive managed to accumulate. As mentioned, it doesnt matter if I frak up the rotor. The new ones are vastly superior.

raine

iTrader: (7)

Might help to spray some wd40 on those studs to work on the rust a little... but hey - you got a lot of tips BEFORE doing the job - always better

speed6

iTrader: (1)

yea, sc rotors are floating ones, they are prob just rusted on. If you get new rotor, you can use a big mallet and dont worry about damaging them. do not leave parking brake on

uras300

iTrader: (2)

I've tried both hammer and bolt method. Bolt by far, is much easier and faster. Be prepared to hear a very, very loud pop when rotor is released from the hub if your's are rusted like mine was. Good luck!

pieisgude

iTrader: (2)

I don't recommend doing it this way.... but...
For the fronts, i used a block of wood and stuck it in between the rear of the rotor and somewhere in the fender well, turned the wheel, and popped the rotor off.
For the rears, i used the factory scissor jack and did pretty much the same thing, stuck it behind, turned it until it popped off.....
lol.

speed6

iTrader: (1)

WD40 goes a longway. Just wash your rotors with soap.