Squeaking / Creaking coming from BC Coilovers
06-05-12, 03:34 PM
#1
Squeaking / Creaking coming from BC Coilovers
I’ve had my BC Racing Coilovers on for about 15K miles and now I’m starting to hear some squeaking / creaking sounds coming from the rear. I only hear the squeaking at low speeds like when I’m driving in parking lots. It’s pretty much a constant “squeak squeak squeak…” even when ground is smooth. I had a friend shake my car when it was parked while I listened for the source and it appears to be coming from both rear coilovers.
Has anyone else experienced this issue and determined a solution?
Has anyone else experienced this issue and determined a solution?
06-15-12, 08:05 PM
#2
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I am having the same issue but with my front driver side coilover. I only have 19k miles on them and the squeak just started.
Kinda disappointed in BC Racing Quality. I read on Youtube someone had a similar problem and when he contacted them BC refused to help
Kinda disappointed in BC Racing Quality. I read on Youtube someone had a similar problem and when he contacted them BC refused to help
06-16-12, 09:00 AM
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I had the same problem squeaking on the front drivers side of my Megan ez coilovers when I hit 8k miles. All I did was adjust the preload and retorqued the bolts. Never squeaked since.
06-18-12, 09:15 AM
#7
When you get some miles on a coilover you may want to take some time to go over them and do a little maintenance. Get some compressed air and blow out every crevice of the coilover, dirt, grime and road debris can build up in all the tiny crevices and cause noises as well as wear. You can do this on the car, or take them off the car and do a more thorough cleaning.
You can also check Preload.
The proper way to set preload on a coilover-
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring(top) and spring lock ring(bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 3mm gap between the two rings, you have 3mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
You also want to check and make sure the top 17mm center nut is tight, it's best to check it with an impact gun if you have access to one, a wuick hit is all it should need. A few other areas to check are the lower mounting bolts, the 4 allen bolts that adjust camber, and the 4 lock bolts underneath the pillowball bearing, make sure all of these are tight.
Sometimes noise can come from somehwere else, endlinks, swaybars, and chassis contact can all be problems. Make sure now that the car is lowered and stiffer that you don't have exhaust contact anywhere. These are all common noise issues.
You can also check Preload.
The proper way to set preload on a coilover-
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring(top) and spring lock ring(bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 3mm gap between the two rings, you have 3mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
You also want to check and make sure the top 17mm center nut is tight, it's best to check it with an impact gun if you have access to one, a wuick hit is all it should need. A few other areas to check are the lower mounting bolts, the 4 allen bolts that adjust camber, and the 4 lock bolts underneath the pillowball bearing, make sure all of these are tight.
Sometimes noise can come from somehwere else, endlinks, swaybars, and chassis contact can all be problems. Make sure now that the car is lowered and stiffer that you don't have exhaust contact anywhere. These are all common noise issues.
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06-18-12, 04:51 PM
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When you get some miles on a coilover you may want to take some time to go over them and do a little maintenance. Get some compressed air and blow out every crevice of the coilover, dirt, grime and road debris can build up in all the tiny crevices and cause noises as well as wear. You can do this on the car, or take them off the car and do a more thorough cleaning.
You can also check Preload.
The proper way to set preload on a coilover-
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring(top) and spring lock ring(bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 3mm gap between the two rings, you have 3mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
You also want to check and make sure the top 17mm center nut is tight, it's best to check it with an impact gun if you have access to one, a wuick hit is all it should need. A few other areas to check are the lower mounting bolts, the 4 allen bolts that adjust camber, and the 4 lock bolts underneath the pillowball bearing, make sure all of these are tight.
Sometimes noise can come from somehwere else, endlinks, swaybars, and chassis contact can all be problems. Make sure now that the car is lowered and stiffer that you don't have exhaust contact anywhere. These are all common noise issues.
You can also check Preload.
The proper way to set preload on a coilover-
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring(top) and spring lock ring(bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 3mm gap between the two rings, you have 3mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
You also want to check and make sure the top 17mm center nut is tight, it's best to check it with an impact gun if you have access to one, a wuick hit is all it should need. A few other areas to check are the lower mounting bolts, the 4 allen bolts that adjust camber, and the 4 lock bolts underneath the pillowball bearing, make sure all of these are tight.
Sometimes noise can come from somehwere else, endlinks, swaybars, and chassis contact can all be problems. Make sure now that the car is lowered and stiffer that you don't have exhaust contact anywhere. These are all common noise issues.
06-25-12, 07:09 PM
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The problem is not pre-load for me. For the first 18k I had no noises and the pre-load was set between 2-3mm.
You can hear a sample of the sound here (not on a lexus, but maxima, but same sound) -
It's more of a rubber squeaky sound.
You can hear a sample of the sound here (not on a lexus, but maxima, but same sound) -
It's more of a rubber squeaky sound.