LuxuryGS3

iTrader: (12)

http://battleversion.com/store/gs300-gs400-gs430-97-05/

BV has finally dropped their RUCA for our cars. This officially completes the rear suspension overhaul.

"A new edition to the Battle Version product line up, our GS300 and 400 Rear upper control arms. These arms were specially designed for the guys looking for the perfect wheel fitment and negative camber. Can be used with either coil over or air bag setup. Our Rlca’s will allow you to get the negative camber you need to tuck your low offset wheels for the best look possible!

We hand make and assemble every arm. The use of our 3- piece self lubricating Teflon injected rod ends will insure maximum durability and long life in daily and extreme use."

They offer..

-: RUCA
-: RLCA
-: Traction Rods
-: Toe Links

vwynn

iTrader: (4)

are you still able to adjust it back to factory setting camber without being on only a few threads or is it this built negative mainly?

LuxuryGS3

iTrader: (12)

I'd email them about that question, as I don't know.. I'm sure you can adjust some positive though, too.

If not then they're just for replacement and negative camber adjustment. The RLCA's/Traction/Toe will probably be more for the 'getting in factory spec'.

EDIT: I shot an email to Matt about 15 minutes ago with some other questions, so I will go ahead and ask him about that, Vwynn, and post what he says back in this thread.

LuxuryGS3

iTrader: (12)

Here's his reply to my email.. We tested them to be able to fix and add camber since the adjustment range is 1.5".

Also I asked him about his bushings.. The bushings are 80% poly and 20% rubber. We do that so they last a long time and also dont crack.

And if they were planning anything else for the front UCA's.. For the fuca's, still looking for a good design that will not be too pricy and still able to adjust the right way.

abounly

iTrader: (27)

Holy, these are pricey!

I was lucky enough to get a set of studio toe/rucas for $500 total!

AVSRacing

so by 1.5" of camber adjustment, means there is 0.75" of additional positive OR negative camber?? anyone know how many degrees is that?

also if I'm looking for more negative camber do I only need the RUCA?? or will I need RLCA, Traction Rods, Toe Links too?

I currently have the SPC rear camber kit and I believe I'm maxed out at -2 degrees already and I might need more - camber if my tires still get shredded after a fender shave

abounly

iTrader: (27)

I was told by a few friends and one of the main guys at STUDIO. That if you were to get RUCA you should get toe arms as well. The more camber you run the more toe in you'll get and the factory adjustments won't cut it.

Plus its super easy to adjust, I love my toe arms.

LuxuryGS3

iTrader: (12)

They're really not that bad to be honest.. Factory UCA's go for 900 for both and that's WITH a employee discount from Sewell. Buddy of mine works there and I had him check for me and when he said that I was like no way in hell im going to pay almost a G for factory arms.

RLCA will control majority of camber, RUCA will help with that also, but how much camber are you looking to run? I mean I got -4.6 out of my factory arms no problem just from slamming..

Toe Links handle the toe in/out. Which you should get regardless and if you're upgrading all of your rear suspension might as well get the traction arms so your rear is quicker to locate when driving.

A camber kit isn't what you really need if you're looking to run more camber. It's just not gonna offer as much adjustment. You should have bought the adjustable mega arms from the start being honest.

AVSRacing

well I'm not looking to slam too much, just looking to have no gap between top of tire and fender. I'm on 20" btw, and so far I'm still shredding my 255 tires I just dropped my car off today for a fender shave. If I still have problems with shredding tires I might have to get 245s or look for a way to get more - camber

LuxuryGS3

iTrader: (12)

What do you mean shredding tires? Like the fender is eating them up? Yeah that shave should help.. I rolled my rears because I didn't wanna deal with that whole cutting the rear fenders and them possibly splitting then you gotta weld them up etc just to much work if something went wrong.

To be honest get the LCA's and Toe Links, run a smaller tire like a 245 and you'll be A1. Shoot after the shave you could probably run LESS camber one you get the camber arms.. What's the specs on the wheels? You got a picture of the tire on the rim?

AVSRacing

well I know for a fact that its very difficult to roll the gs fenders without them dimpling, so the body shop just said shave as much as he can up to the welds, where ever they are. (he said anymore will risk the fenders splitting.) Hopefully that will get rid of the shredding sidewall problem. but I was just looking up other peoples fender shave and some have had the fenders completely shaved without splitting.

I don't have pics of the tire on the wheel right now. but the spec is 20x10.5 29+ offset, 255/30/20

LuxuryGS3

iTrader: (12)

Well I take it that if it's just shredding your tire and not actually cutting through it yet that it's not to bad when it comes to the inner fender and shaving should do the trick. I'd also try putting your coils on full stiff in the rear or at least a couple more clicks to the right to stiffen it more. This will help with the travel of the wheel into your fender well.

AVSRacing

well I am on custom BC coils extreme drop kit with 14kg rears, they were installed last week, so I'm expecting them to lower a bit more once they settle. I'm on 8 clicks from the stiffest setting, which apparently is the factory setting from the manual. and its a lil bit bouncy already, it was on full stiff when I first installed it and I felt EVERYTHING on the road.

LuxuryGS3

iTrader: (12)

I see. Well see how it goes with the shave. That should fix the problem with the tires. I'd recommend running smaller though. Like a 245.

AVSRacing

well I did come from a 285/30/20 LOL I was hoping 255 would be good but I was wrong