DIrEctQL

Ya, but if it fits, then why not? My friend pointed out this one fits Supra. I will ask him again to make sure.

808state

pcmw-

did you install the upper control arm bushings as well? how difficult (or easy) was it to get the old ones out and the new ones in? do you have some pics?

pcmw

808state,

Nope... Didn't need to change the uppers. I may do it anyway. I will take pics. However, the uppers are WAY easier than the lowers because of the two part design.

MW

seattleSC

pcmw,

What is the part number of the ball joint seperator that you purchased and I was also wondering if you could post a pic of it.

Thanks in advance,

Antonio

Chairmnofthbord

there's basically 2 kinds of balljoint separator that I know of.

The first one is a fork that shims in between the arm and spindle and pops them apart, but also usually ruins the balljoint boot.

the second one is the one i prefer but you cant always use it due to space, its a puller (like a harmonic puller), you anchor it to the spindle and ball joint bolt and turn the bolt and pops it apart without damaging anything.

those are the only 2 i know of others are basically the same thing but on a pneumatic chissel and so on.

Xavier

pcmw

seattleSC,

Thanks for re-posting your question here. I think this may help others in the process of answering your question.

Method#1. PickleFork method.
Simple insert on the upper side of the balljoint and smack with mallet until arm separates from the steering knuckle.



This, like chair said, tends to cause damage no matter how careful you try and handle it. Most of the time the boot barely cuts and can be sealed back up.

Method #2. Two Sledge Method
This method involves the brute force theory of being a mechanic. Take a heavy hammer like this one or larger.


And then hold it on the lower arm. Take second hammer and smack the first hammer. Wear goggles and watch the fender. This works on most cars but wasn't the most successful method on the SC because of cramped conditions and lack of sufficient space to lodge the first hammer. (note: do NOT hit the top of the ball joint nut/bolt)

Method #3. Lever Style Ball Joint Separator tool
This contraption uses physics and a basic lever to apply enough constant pressure to release the seized joint. First, remove the crown nut on the ball joint, flip the crown nut over and screw it back down so that the base of the bolt and the nut are flush, this is to protect the threads from possible damage if the lever slips. Then work the lever over the ball joint boot being careful to not catch the boot. Finally tighten the separator to about 25lbs of torque. I then just left it there for about 1min and POW it separates with a large bang.



This is a $125+ unit but a $18 unit is available from JC Whitney


If I were to do it all over again, I would highly suggest you rent/buy one of these tools. It is a huge time saver.

MW

Chairmnofthbord

what i like to do is leave the crown nut on, loosen it to the max, but leave it on to be sure not to damage the ball joint thread in anyway. on my SC i didnt use any tool, i just tapped the lower control arms and it popped right off. lucky me huh.

PS jack stands, google and air tools, no excuses, get them!

Xavier

UZZ32

I wanted a wheel alignment after doing the bushes and the whole lot done in one day while at work - so I got Pedders (suspension workshop) to remove and install the bushes - they charged 4 hours to do the job I remember. I decided to go for the steel jacket rubber bushes - Toyota buy and resell these bushes, so good enough for me.
http://www.users.bigpond.com/pgscott/bushes/bushes.htm

pcmw

Questions for you Peter,

Is there a warranty on these rubber bushings? What's to say they won't fail like the factory ones? If they are factory spec, then wouldn't they fail all the same? This thread was started as a diy project, can you install these on your driveway? If so, why didn't you take a stab at it? Can the "shock alignment" slots be adjusted for a lower suspension that would no longer have the same geometry as the factory? Why are the inner sleeves not serated like the factory ones? Lastly, the factory bushings had a steel sleeve inside the rubber rears, but NOT on the outside edges. Why would you need the new replacements to have such a sleeve?

I had all these questions about the "steel jacket" bushings, then looked at the price, decided not worth the hassel and went with Daizen. Hopefully you can clear these points up. However, based on the $225+ price tag, overseas shipping, and unknown warranty if something went wrong....

Is there a plan for a US importer/reseller that can be a local point of contact? This would help out.

MW

Chairmnofthbord

It can be a DIY, but you ned tools, experience, and patience. its no less than a 4 hour job. well i did mine in about 2 1/2 hours, but i got lucky, everything popped off easy, i dont think everyone will be that lucky.

if you guys want, i can do a car and someone can sit back with a digital camera and a notebad and do a HOW TO, you will see most people will rather pay $200-300 to have the job done.

plus you WILL need an alignment ($45)


PS thats lower control arm only, not the uppers

Xavier

pcmw

Xavier,

Do you have a press? I think the Aussie ones need a press according to the website.

MW

UZZ32

Warranty? - ask the guy who sells them - he's not a shop or anything - he got so pissed off with the polyurathane ones he installed in his car that he went and spent $5000 getting some custom rubber ones made and the whole job done again. Now he sells them. He is an enthusiast only - he has sent some to the US and to the UK. He has a regular day job. All he does is polish his Lexus everyday and listens for noises - he is a perfectionist - quite amazing.
How long last? - don't know.
I didn't DIY because it sounds like a pain - and I don't want to drive for 35 minutes wearing out my expensive tyres to get to the wheel alignment place.
The shock control slots are not adustable, the whole bush moves when aligning just like every bush - you can have any wheel alignment you want - I choose factory settings because they work best for me.
The new inner sleeves are serated - I don't think it makes a difference. These are the only bushes with serated inner sleeves I think.
I have the four old bushes in my hand - they all have steel jackets - front and rears - all the old bushes I have seen have steel jackets.

I haven't heard of anything going wrong with the bushes.

The guy who makes them doesn't pay for advertising on Club Lexus and isn't allowed to sell them or ask for local points of contact on this forum.

pcmw

Thanks Peter!!!

I appreciate your response. Again, I am just critical because of the very fact that you stated "He is an enthusiast only - he has sent some to the US and to the UK. He has a regular day job." My only concern is that in 40k miles people will need to replace these units AGAIN. If these are sold as a FIX to the stock bushings premature wear issue and then they do not last any longer, people will fill ripped.

You can move the bushing once it is pressed into place? That doesn't sound correct. I am guessing that if you want to keep the control slots parallel to the strut on a lowered car, you would need to do your own calculations to GUESS on what angle to install them at. I read yours and Andrews write up on the importance of these slots but I fear that with a "other than stock" suspension you would have nothing but more failure.

I hope that you guys find a US reseller. The 4 - 'P's in marketing are Product, Place, Price, and Promotion. With no place you can see them first hand it is tough to buy off and WIRE cash to Andrew overseas.

MW

SCV8

The slots for camber adjustment are in the car only,the bolts are common to both the bushing and the slot.
I just finished installing some solid industrial plastic bushings on my lower control arms.
The steering response is great,and I was able to go to way less than one degree of camber,since there's no deflection to compensate for,which will no doubt help tire wear issues.

pcmw

SCV8,

This is the first I heard of industrial plastic bushings. Any pics?

Where did you source these from?

Thanks

MW