Xavier,

That is confusing!!

The fact that there are 3 sleeves "per se" in the front bushing, you may want to specify which you are referring to. My guess is that you are asking why Daizen didn't require people to air chisel or relief cut their outer most sleeve. Why would you want to cut this out being that it is perfectly fine? I believe it is simply to save the customer an extra 1hr a side or 2 hours of paid labor to install them. That is what makes the Daizens work magic. Simple install and no crazy air chisel tools to kill yourself with.

MW

 

in other words make them like the bushings UZZ showed in his pic, like most bushes, the one i used from whiteline had no sleev at all.

not too bad, i cut into the 1st 2 bushes, then i fugured out you didnt need too relief cut the bushing, just a heavy hammer and chissel, and the WHOLE bushing pops out. no need to burn or heat anything.

anyways, lets close this thread, before there were NONE, now there are 3 different bushings you can get, get the ones from TM, there in So Cal USA, cheap, and easy to get.

THE END

 

I know this is kind of off topic but has anyone gotten a hold of Todd lately? I sent an order through his webpage on Dec. 30th and it still has not gone through. Oh, I tried e-mail several times as well as calling him this afternoon, can't seem to get a hold of him.

TIA

Antonio

 

Gentelman I have just replaced my lower control arm bushings with my extended warrentie and I can say that the suspention is much better. Less road noice and tighter suspention. But heres the problem I still have the grinding sound especialy when its cold everytime I hit a speed bump or a dip. Its is so enoying. I brought the car back to lexus. and they told me that its the stableizing bar need to be lubricated. so I when ahead and let them do it. well I still have the problem and I dont have any confidence in these clowns anymore. Can anybody help. Thanks

 

Is the noise coming from the front or the back of the car?
How did the ball joints look when the control arm was apart?

 

Speaking of creaking noises remember to not take the control arm off when you do your strut/spring swap. It is unneccessary and will end up taking you hours more. There is a bolt underneath where the mount for the strut goes. You undo this and then move the mount. If you take the control arm from the steering knuckle you risk popping the ball joints. After months of the grease leaking out it will eventually squeek and then grind. At this point the joints will need to be replaced which is around 8 hours of labor at a shop.

 

Hermosa Thanks for the quick responce. The noise or scraping sound is coming from the front passinger side. I have to take off the bottom plastic cover and inspect the front end. When I had Lexus replace them I told them that I wanted the control arms back. They told me that I couldnt have them back because of the warrenty company needed the parts back. I Think they are rebuild them and trade in the old ones. I thought after reading so many articules about the control arm bushings that I had the problem solved. Also the suspention is so stiff that its very hard to push down on the fender to see if the shocks are ok. Well in NY its very cold its down to the teens, so I hope that it warms up soon so I can check it out.

 

Hold up, I did what now??!? :eek:

 

HAHA...

I meant to say, When lex400sc and I did Hermosa's......

MW

 

How's everything holding up with the new bushings? Any squeeks or anything now?

 

No squeaks, clunks, or alignment issues.

MW

 

These are the original Mk1 solid Nolthane bushes from Oz, said to cause a harsher ride but I cant tell with my suspenison set-up being very hard. As they dont have the lateral shock reducing slots in the bush they hold the front arms/wheels securely in place.

This type of solid bush will improve the steering on any SC/Soarer, preventing side loads from shifting the arms when under cornering forces, taller rims (less sidewall tyre flex) will also create greater lateral force causing lower arm movement (further altering the geo angles mid corner), the solid bushes will resist this movement far more than the OEM type.

These come in a steel jacket which requires removal of the complete bushing from the arms, some fall out, some need persuasion. They press fit into the arms, care needs to be taken to ensure they are well lubricated on re-fitting the arms, this type of bush fully rotates with the arm so the ends of the bush will "rub" in the mountings, the rubber OEM style bushes use the elasticity of the rubber as the central core of the bush is fixed.

I have not tried anything but factory geometry settings but after having these bushes fitted and the geo re-done the steering is pin-point.

 

I'm resurrecting this *old* thread to get an update from Daizen owners regarding squeeks and creaks and general satsifaction.

I'm still in a tossup between the Daizen and Vlamos bushings.

I understand that a drawback to urethane bushings generally is the increased pass-through NVH and the evental squeeks, but I thought the Daizens were softer than typical urethane?

 

akxx,

I still have the car, its been a few years now since installing the bushings. I checked them this winter when I pulled my summer wheels off and put the supra rims back on. They are still perfect. Never squeaked. I cannot tell you anything about Vlamos contraption because I have never seen anyone have them.

Overall, I have helped 6 people install the Daizen bushings and all went very straight forward. Just like painting, remember the preparation is more important than the actual installation. Making sure you have a good shop or the right tools before you lift the car off the ground.

Take Care...

MW

 

Excellent--thanks for the long-term report.

BTW, I'm assuming it doesn't get cold enough in your area to really report on cold-temp squeak potential. But if *nobody* you are aware of has had squeak issues on the Daizens, that's certainly a good data point.