Comparing spacer brands: H&R vs Generic Ebay
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
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What makes one spacer better than the other if they are all hub centric? A block of aluminum that spaces the wheel + extended lugs are just that.. right?
IIRC, people were having problems with Ichiba studs shearing off. Was this brand specific? Why should I pay twice as much for an H&R set when the same block of aluminum and grade 8 studs cost half as much?
Generic Ebay for $61 vs. H&R for $118
How are these two kits different?
IIRC, people were having problems with Ichiba studs shearing off. Was this brand specific? Why should I pay twice as much for an H&R set when the same block of aluminum and grade 8 studs cost half as much?
Generic Ebay for $61 vs. H&R for $118
How are these two kits different?
#4
Lead Lap
iTrader: (9)
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The optionselects (ebay) spacers, seems to be pretty well built so far. Really popular with the s2k guys, some people have ran them for 15k with no issues. Lost of info on these threads regarding the optionselects. H&R's are no doubt, nicely made too.
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/6684...option+selects
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/9925...#entry22183765
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/6684...option+selects
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/9925...#entry22183765
#5
Driver School Candidate
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I have an 2008 IS350 and bought $55 pair of Option Selects 20mm wide studded spacers that are advertised as being
Aluminun billet 6061-T6
I was very weary about this price vs. advertising, but i took the bait and bought them.
My work as a nice hardness tester, that can easily tell me the quality of the Aluminum, which resulted in Rockwell Superficial 30-T of 65.5 !!!
That converts to a Rockwell A of 45.5 or a Brinell Hardness of over 100 !!
This is very good news, since we expect a Brinell Hardness of 95 to guaranteeT6 hardness spec'. Although the aluminum was dented up in a few places due to handling, I went ahead and did a die-penetrant inspection for cracks around the studs and holes, and found none.
If the results were sub-par, I would have returned them and filed a complaint to Ebay for thier advertising...but, these are very good, and I have decided to keep them and use them.
Some simple explanations:
Billet means the aluminum part is machined from a large foundry pre-form solid rod/ingot. Billet is best for high strength (but not the lightest).
Cast means the aluminum part is poured into a near net shape mold. Casting is good for engineering economics and light weight.
T6 is a good high level heat treatment of the aluminum that vastly improves the properties of the Aluminum, x2 to x3 times the strength and hardness than wrought/annealled aluminum.
Wheel spacers often fail at the bolt connection to the hub/brake. It is imparative that you do not overtorque those nuts!!! and never ever use impact drivers!!! and never let anyone else do it...ie: tire shops!!! The Jeep guys know this best, and they use lower torques but with loctite..which is what i will do.
Aluminun billet 6061-T6
I was very weary about this price vs. advertising, but i took the bait and bought them.
My work as a nice hardness tester, that can easily tell me the quality of the Aluminum, which resulted in Rockwell Superficial 30-T of 65.5 !!!
That converts to a Rockwell A of 45.5 or a Brinell Hardness of over 100 !!
This is very good news, since we expect a Brinell Hardness of 95 to guaranteeT6 hardness spec'. Although the aluminum was dented up in a few places due to handling, I went ahead and did a die-penetrant inspection for cracks around the studs and holes, and found none.
If the results were sub-par, I would have returned them and filed a complaint to Ebay for thier advertising...but, these are very good, and I have decided to keep them and use them.
Some simple explanations:
Billet means the aluminum part is machined from a large foundry pre-form solid rod/ingot. Billet is best for high strength (but not the lightest).
Cast means the aluminum part is poured into a near net shape mold. Casting is good for engineering economics and light weight.
T6 is a good high level heat treatment of the aluminum that vastly improves the properties of the Aluminum, x2 to x3 times the strength and hardness than wrought/annealled aluminum.
Wheel spacers often fail at the bolt connection to the hub/brake. It is imparative that you do not overtorque those nuts!!! and never ever use impact drivers!!! and never let anyone else do it...ie: tire shops!!! The Jeep guys know this best, and they use lower torques but with loctite..which is what i will do.
#7
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I had spacers on my 300 srt8 for over and year and never had any issues with them. 25mm front 30mm back. Drove the car well over 185mph smooth as can be. I bought mine at http://adaptitusa.com
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