rear lca
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Hello, I am trying to remove this from the subframe. I was wondering if there is a special way to do it?
i successfully removed the nut, but the bolt seems to be stuck. Does the bolt thread into the lca or subframe and need to be unscrewed? or should it just be hit our with a hammer like the trailing arm, or whatever the one is thats next to it.
thanks for the help
scott
i successfully removed the nut, but the bolt seems to be stuck. Does the bolt thread into the lca or subframe and need to be unscrewed? or should it just be hit our with a hammer like the trailing arm, or whatever the one is thats next to it.
thanks for the help
scott
#2
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If it's still attached to the hub, other parts attached to the hub are putting pressure on it. Try to lift the hub with a jack to a level height to remove stress. If it's no longer attached to the hub, the bolt might be at aweird angle or just simply stuck. Try hitting it with a screwdriver and hammer to push it out, don't hit the bolt itself with a hammer or it might warp the thread.
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ok, thanks, ya, its the bolt that goes through it and into the subframe. the nuts off but it wont move, now that i know its not threaded, I will give it some harder wacks with a hammer
#5
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make sure you leave the nut on the end of the bolt, otherwise the bolt will be toast. with the nut on it, you can hammer on the nut until the bolt starts to move and then hopefully it will come out on its own. Use plenty of antiseize when reassembling.
i just took my whole rear subframe apart and rebuilt it, so let me know if you have questions.
on my car the lower strut bolt did the same thing as you are talking about, lots of PB Blaster and a hammer did the trick in the end.
Marko
i just took my whole rear subframe apart and rebuilt it, so let me know if you have questions.
on my car the lower strut bolt did the same thing as you are talking about, lots of PB Blaster and a hammer did the trick in the end.
Marko
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make sure you leave the nut on the end of the bolt, otherwise the bolt will be toast. with the nut on it, you can hammer on the nut until the bolt starts to move and then hopefully it will come out on its own. Use plenty of antiseize when reassembling.
i just took my whole rear subframe apart and rebuilt it, so let me know if you have questions.
on my car the lower strut bolt did the same thing as you are talking about, lots of PB Blaster and a hammer did the trick in the end.
Marko
i just took my whole rear subframe apart and rebuilt it, so let me know if you have questions.
on my car the lower strut bolt did the same thing as you are talking about, lots of PB Blaster and a hammer did the trick in the end.
Marko
some of the arms have bolts with washers that allow for adjustment. they have little tick marks around the outside. can anyone tell me, are the bolts attached to these washers (one piece) or are they seperate pieces?
thanks
scott
#7
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the camber adjuster bolts have the washers attached (cast as part of the bolt), but on the nut end the washer is loose. if those are stuck (one of my front lca ones was.. had to sawzall it through the bushing...) then remove the nut and washer on the nut side, spray pb blaster, and hammer away.
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awesome news, the lca bolt on the subframe i picked up last night was not siezed so I was able to get it out easily. dont know it what it is about lcas, but 2/3 of the lca bolts ive dealt with were frozen to the lca inner bushing sleeve and did not come out.
anyways, now i have to deal with a stuck upper control arm nut/bolt. then im almost ready to swap in the new parts.
i also now have 3 dead 3/8" ratchets. two are really old and the mech broke, and on my craftsman one the actual square metal piece snapped. i wonder if i can get a warranty on the craftsman
anyways, now i have to deal with a stuck upper control arm nut/bolt. then im almost ready to swap in the new parts.
i also now have 3 dead 3/8" ratchets. two are really old and the mech broke, and on my craftsman one the actual square metal piece snapped. i wonder if i can get a warranty on the craftsman
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awesome, thanks for the tip. i will try osh first because its right down the street, if that fails, ill go to sears
#11
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you should buy yourself a couple of breaker bars so you don't use ratchets to break bolts loose. ratchets should only be used to ratchet the bolts out after they are broken loose.
is there a harbor freight near by you? Many cheap tools, especially breaker bars, work just fine from there.
Marko
is there a harbor freight near by you? Many cheap tools, especially breaker bars, work just fine from there.
Marko
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you should buy yourself a couple of breaker bars so you don't use ratchets to break bolts loose. ratchets should only be used to ratchet the bolts out after they are broken loose.
is there a harbor freight near by you? Many cheap tools, especially breaker bars, work just fine from there.
Marko
is there a harbor freight near by you? Many cheap tools, especially breaker bars, work just fine from there.
Marko
#13
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get some air my friend harbor freight was having a decent deal a few weeks are so. air makes the world go around alot faster. however i just got air tools myself so i know it can be pricey!
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out of curiosity, for impact wrenches, what foot lb ratings should I look for?
-scott