rear upper control arm bushings
03-19-13, 08:00 PM
#1
rear upper control arm bushings
My rear upper control arm bushings are shot. I'm also running more negative camber than I'd like to be (-2.5) This is with the camber adjustment maxed out.
What I'm wondering is would just changing to regular prothane poly ruca bushings cause a small gain in positive camber if the old rubber ones are deteriorated enough?
The daizen camber bushings seem impossible to find, and quality adjustable control arms are out of my price range. So I was thinking of just replacing them with the standard poly bushings, or I actually saw used arms with prothane bushings already pressed in on the classifieds.
What I'm wondering is would just changing to regular prothane poly ruca bushings cause a small gain in positive camber if the old rubber ones are deteriorated enough?
The daizen camber bushings seem impossible to find, and quality adjustable control arms are out of my price range. So I was thinking of just replacing them with the standard poly bushings, or I actually saw used arms with prothane bushings already pressed in on the classifieds.
but still doesn't beat ~50$ for a whole rear poly bushing set. if you are riding low though then that is really your only option for fixing camber.
03-21-13, 05:52 PM
#6
you are right, 95 for energy suspension parts . com, the front ones are closer to 50 at 57. got the two confused.
do let me know how much the bushings help, cause i will plan to drop about 2 inches too and i have poly bushes in the back but stock suspension right now.
do let me know how much the bushings help, cause i will plan to drop about 2 inches too and i have poly bushes in the back but stock suspension right now.
Trending Topics
03-22-13, 07:25 AM
#11
yea the rear upper bushings are definately the worst. i did it at my house and i dropped my subframe because i was overhauling the whole rear end anyway. i would recommend doing it as a weekend job and doing all the rear bushings. i took a bunch of pictures so i can give you tips and pointers if you want to tackle it. the problem with the rear bushings is that they are spherical so you can't just press them out easily, you have to cut away one of the bushing edges to push the center out and hammer in the lip to have space to put the edge of the control arm on the press and push out the sleeve.
03-25-13, 03:28 AM
#12
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ahh ruca's. fun times. I used a 5 ft long breaker bar to get those bolts loose, and when they were getting untorqued, they made gunshot sounds. pretty ******* scary/awesome. And this was with the subframe out of the car.
Though, iirc, the bushings for the ruca's were a bit of a pita to take out due to there being sleeves that you had to cut through, which would've been fine except the said sleeves also had a lip on one side so it got a bit weird to burn/sawzall out.
Though, iirc, the bushings for the ruca's were a bit of a pita to take out due to there being sleeves that you had to cut through, which would've been fine except the said sleeves also had a lip on one side so it got a bit weird to burn/sawzall out.
03-25-13, 07:14 PM
#13
One place hit me at 160 per side installed with me providing the bushings.. Is there anything else I should be looking for in the rear of the car?
It clunks pretty good over bumps, putting it in reverse, etc. Rides rough over certain road surfaces, and sometimes gets squirrley over reflectors and manholes, especially in the rain.
There's also very noticeable rear toe in since it was aligned last year. Oddly shortly after it was aligned was when all this noise and instability in the rear started.
It clunks pretty good over bumps, putting it in reverse, etc. Rides rough over certain road surfaces, and sometimes gets squirrley over reflectors and manholes, especially in the rain.
There's also very noticeable rear toe in since it was aligned last year. Oddly shortly after it was aligned was when all this noise and instability in the rear started.
Last edited by V8drummer; 03-25-13 at 07:18 PM.
04-06-13, 10:09 PM
#15
So I actually got under the car today because I was going to do the rear sway bar endlinks, and the control arm bushings really didn't look that bad to me.
The endlinks were really worn, and so was one of the sway bar bushings. The sway bar was offset to one side a good inch.
Looks like I'm going to have to cut them off though, because the allen wrench holes were rounded and rusted shut.
What should I use to cut them off, and do you think the shot end links and misaligned sway bar could be causing the rear end instability?
The endlinks were really worn, and so was one of the sway bar bushings. The sway bar was offset to one side a good inch.
Looks like I'm going to have to cut them off though, because the allen wrench holes were rounded and rusted shut.
What should I use to cut them off, and do you think the shot end links and misaligned sway bar could be causing the rear end instability?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
