tightening brakes
#1
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tightening brakes
Coming from a BMW whose brakes were extremly tight (the brake pedal was very sensitive, you can come to a complete stop with light movement). I grew used to this feeling and really grew to like it.
After I made the switch to the IS I noticed my brakes are brand new (but I believe my rotors have been cut) is there anyway to get this tight brake feeling back?
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After I made the switch to the IS I noticed my brakes are brand new (but I believe my rotors have been cut) is there anyway to get this tight brake feeling back?
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#2
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Components are different car-to-car. So the master brake cylinder in one model won't feel and the same as in another car. Things you can adjust though include :
1) Adjusting the brake pedal to engage with the slightest of touch (not recommended)
2) Different brake pads
3) Bleed brake system to ensure optimal braking performance
4) Replace old brake fluid.
GL!
1) Adjusting the brake pedal to engage with the slightest of touch (not recommended)
2) Different brake pads
3) Bleed brake system to ensure optimal braking performance
4) Replace old brake fluid.
GL!
#3
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Originally Posted by Gville350
Components are different car-to-car. So the master brake cylinder in one model won't feel and the same as in another car. Things you can adjust though include :
1) Adjusting the brake pedal to engage with the slightest of touch (not recommended)
2) Different brake pads
3) Bleed brake system to ensure optimal braking performance
4) Replace old brake fluid.
GL!
1) Adjusting the brake pedal to engage with the slightest of touch (not recommended)
2) Different brake pads
3) Bleed brake system to ensure optimal braking performance
4) Replace old brake fluid.
GL!
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#4
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If you wanna do a brake job, you shouldn't half-*** it. It's a safety item, you just don't wanna skip things like that. You're best bet is to get a second person to help man the brake pedal, while you man the driver side rear bleeder valve and top off the fluid reservoir in-between.
1)Top off the res with new fluid
2)Crack open the driver rear bleeder valve
3)Pump brake pedal and hold to the floor
4)Close bleeder valve
5)Release brake pedal (you might have to manually pull the pedal back up from the floor)
6)Glance at the res and top off if needed
Repeat this process until you see new fluid coming through the bleeder valve. I created a DIY bleeder bottle using an old zip tie container and some 40 a ft clea tubng from Lowes. Drilled a hole in the top, and fed the hose through it.
GL!
1)Top off the res with new fluid
2)Crack open the driver rear bleeder valve
3)Pump brake pedal and hold to the floor
4)Close bleeder valve
5)Release brake pedal (you might have to manually pull the pedal back up from the floor)
6)Glance at the res and top off if needed
Repeat this process until you see new fluid coming through the bleeder valve. I created a DIY bleeder bottle using an old zip tie container and some 40 a ft clea tubng from Lowes. Drilled a hole in the top, and fed the hose through it.
GL!
#5
I can feel that my brake paddle is mushy soft and has a lot of "free play" before it grabs. A visit to the dealer to bleed, replace old brake fluid does improve it. But it still feels mushy/spongy. BTW, I have IS250. If I upgrade to IS350 brake, will it improve the brake feel?
#6
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Originally Posted by Gville350
If you wanna do a brake job, you shouldn't half-*** it. It's a safety item, you just don't wanna skip things like that. You're best bet is to get a second person to help man the brake pedal, while you man the driver side rear bleeder valve and top off the fluid reservoir in-between.
1)Top off the res with new fluid
2)Crack open the driver rear bleeder valve
3)Pump brake pedal and hold to the floor
4)Close bleeder valve
5)Release brake pedal (you might have to manually pull the pedal back up from the floor)
6)Glance at the res and top off if needed
Repeat this process until you see new fluid coming through the bleeder valve. I created a DIY bleeder bottle using an old zip tie container and some 40 a ft clea tubng from Lowes. Drilled a hole in the top, and fed the hose through it.
GL!
1)Top off the res with new fluid
2)Crack open the driver rear bleeder valve
3)Pump brake pedal and hold to the floor
4)Close bleeder valve
5)Release brake pedal (you might have to manually pull the pedal back up from the floor)
6)Glance at the res and top off if needed
Repeat this process until you see new fluid coming through the bleeder valve. I created a DIY bleeder bottle using an old zip tie container and some 40 a ft clea tubng from Lowes. Drilled a hole in the top, and fed the hose through it.
GL!
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#7
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any good write ups or videos that exactly portray this? Its the first time I'm doing this. I'm worried about introducing air into the system and creating problems I don't have. That's why I was saying I wanted to only do a "top off" and cyphon the resevoir only. I realize this is a safety measure but after all, there really is nothing seriously wrong with my brakes..
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#8
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Do I need to buy any tubing to flush the bleeder valves or will it flush right out when I crack it open? Also, do I need to keep turning the valve on/off on every brake pump/release?
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#9
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^A clear tube does make it less messy; once the bleeder is open, it will trickle out...but once the brake pedal is mashed I'll pour out with pressure. What's a $1.20 for some clear tubing from Lowes?
And yes...you need to open the bleeder, push the brake pedal to the floor (one fluid movement...nothing fast or ridiculous), close the bleeder, pull brake pedal back up, and top up fluid. Repeat till new fluid is seen coming through the bleeder. This, if done correctly, will only take 5 minutes with two people. Hell, with a short pole and the assist from the power driver seat you can honestly do it yourself (I did it when I replaced my rear calipers!).
And yes...you need to open the bleeder, push the brake pedal to the floor (one fluid movement...nothing fast or ridiculous), close the bleeder, pull brake pedal back up, and top up fluid. Repeat till new fluid is seen coming through the bleeder. This, if done correctly, will only take 5 minutes with two people. Hell, with a short pole and the assist from the power driver seat you can honestly do it yourself (I did it when I replaced my rear calipers!).
#10
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^A clear tube does make it less messy; once the bleeder is open, it will trickle out...but once the brake pedal is mashed I'll pour out with pressure. What's a $1.20 for some clear tubing from Lowes?
And yes...you need to open the bleeder, push the brake pedal to the floor (one fluid movement...nothing fast or ridiculous), close the bleeder, pull brake pedal back up, and top up fluid. Repeat till new fluid is seen coming through the bleeder. This, if done correctly, will only take 5 minutes with two people. Hell, with a short pole and the assist from the power driver seat you can honestly do it yourself (I did it when I replaced my rear calipers!).
And yes...you need to open the bleeder, push the brake pedal to the floor (one fluid movement...nothing fast or ridiculous), close the bleeder, pull brake pedal back up, and top up fluid. Repeat till new fluid is seen coming through the bleeder. This, if done correctly, will only take 5 minutes with two people. Hell, with a short pole and the assist from the power driver seat you can honestly do it yourself (I did it when I replaced my rear calipers!).
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I asked the guy the same question on youtube (wouldnt he be sucking air back into the system when pumping the brakes without closing the valve?)
his response: "Na since the hose is going into fluid when it "sucks" back it draws fluid back rather than air. like a straw in a drink."
I still dont get the idea behind this..wouldnt you just be exchanging old fluid and new back and forth if you do what he said?
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his response: "Na since the hose is going into fluid when it "sucks" back it draws fluid back rather than air. like a straw in a drink."
I still dont get the idea behind this..wouldnt you just be exchanging old fluid and new back and forth if you do what he said?
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