dgb744

I borrowed my girlfriends Toyota and she drove my SC400 for 15 days, when I returned my car was drifting and somewhat trammeling over the road. It was if the car was drunk and un-predictable. I drove it twice, once 20 miles and then a 60 mile trip. At the end of the 60 mile drive the left tire began wobbleing.

Let me preceed by saying this car has worn the segments of the front tire so that if you pull your hand up the tread you would feel lots of friction and not so much the other way. The segments were not level. This added to the road noise and probably the balance.
I took the car to a shop that trues tires. They cut off the rubber until the tire is perfectly round.
Let it be said that new tires are not perfectly round.
They were then balanced and it was mentioned that the outer tie rods had a small bit of play in them but not needing replacement?
The car drove like the first time I drove this vehicle dating back to 1998. Unlike any automobile I've ever driven. It was so quiet and the car tracked streight with out an hands on the wheel. Amazing. I would love to feel that again.
I was told that this car wear's tires and its common for some cars and next time choosing tires to choose one with smaller segments, also to extend the life of the tires which had appreciable life left to rotate them (front to rear and then x the rear ones to the front) every OIL change.
This is what I did for about 1.5 years.

Drunk Car: so I jacked up one side and had someone shake the tire back and forth while inspecting the outer and inner tie rods. You have to take the boots off the inner tie rods to feel them. When removing I noticed the left side had about 1 oz of power steering fluid in the boot. I believe this leak could have been caused or possibly wear prematurely with the excessive vibration. Tires and suspension causing the vibration. I also notice some leakage on the left rear strut and believe that could have prematurely wear as a result of the abnormal worn tires.
Tie Rods were purchased from Raybestos through Amazon and approx $118. delievered next day.
Heres what I did in order:
1.remove the front tires
2. Loosen the tie rod lock nut (resist turning shaft to limit's end by using two wrenches).
3. remove cotter pin
4. remove nut
5. soak tie rod shaft with WD-40 or better (mouse milk, rust buster, etc etc.)

6. I did not have a tie rod puller. I later found out Harbor Freight tools (the china copying tool manufacture) sells one for under $20., I would suggest you purchase one.
I applied HEAT (map gas) to the support and hit the rod end one good swift hit with a BRASS HAMMER and it came loose.

7. Count the number of turns of the rod end and install the new part with the same number of turns.
8. Align the shaft to insert correctly and install washer and nut. Torque castleated nut and install cotter pin.

Because I came across another issue concerning the leaking rack and pinion I flushed the power steering per instructions show on this forum. It instructed me to clean and drain the power steering reservior and reinstall but leaving the return line off while connecting a garden hose to drain into a container. Start the car and quickly turn off. Fill reservior. Continue until you have clean fluid. I did this with the front times off while on jacks. I attempted to turn the wheel while starting the car and found that the pump would become dry very very quickly. That is not good. You don't want this happening running a dry pump. So I would not turn the wheel as hard and got in a rhythm of on and off while steering slightly and not cavitating the pump. At one point I got excited and turned the key to the start position while the car was running. DO NOT DO THIS. Damn starter replacement in THIS CAR is something YOU DON'T WANT TO REPLACE as it is located under the intake manifold!
Clean fluid, hook up the return line.
Leave the reservior low so you can pour in the stop leak.

Everything was going fine until I poured in the Lucas power steering stop leak fluid.
This stuff is thick.
The reservior is full now and the car is running and the pump is squeeling?
I put a large screw driver down the reservior and rubbed the reservior screen as if to clear any sludge. This DID help.
So if you remove your reservior to drain it I would suggest you use solvent to wash out your reservoir screen (shake the reservior, the screen is located near the bottom, mineral spirits should work, then flush with power steering fluid prior to installing on car).

I was really surprised that the lucas power steering stop leak would cause my power steering pump to make noise. I moved the wheel back and forth many times while on jack stands but when I put the tires back on and moved the wheel the noise was there.
I decided to test drive the car.
The car drove wonderfully with the new Raybestos Parts. I would suggest these quality parts. Stay away from a cheaper part when using in your car. Suspension parts ate up my tires and possibly caused other parts to wear, leak, etc.
Vibration is your enemy.
I now have to balance my tires but I feel that a $90. alignment is not warrented after the test drive. The car drives straight and does not pull.
These unevenly worn tires are not worthy of an alignment IMO but have another 10,000 miles left.
I did get an estimate for the job from a reputable repair shop of $1,250. for replacing the tie rods, rack and pinion, alignment.

The power steering noise slowly went away after driving it a couple times. I do not have leakage of the rack. The car drives nice. I spent $118. plus the $10. bottle of stop leak = $128.

I replaced a rack and pinion on a 1982 Toyota Supra once because it was filling up the boots with fluid. I wish I had put the stop leak in that car because it was a costly repair and took me many hours of frustration installing it.
I also had a 97 honda civic with a leaking head gasket, I poured a bottle of sealer in the radiator and it stopped that leak. So I feel comfortable putting the stop leak in the Lexus.

I'm for kicking the can down the road.
I don't skimp on cheap chinese crappy parts, I desire parts manufactured in the USA or Japan. I researched the many articles in this forum and after reading countless bloggers stating that their Lower Control Arm was the cause I felt very glad that something I am familiar with was the problem.
I do not believe by applying heat to the support will cause further problems as the metal did not change a bright glowing red color (which would indicate intense heat). The light heat I believe helps the WD-40 to penetrate while the metal expands. I would add heat and then spray, wait a minute and then heat up again. Having brass hammers is something I've used in Aviation Maintenance and enjoy having these tools for automotive use also, they do not damage threads.