I have an issue today when I was changing my front brakes and rotors. The front caliper piston will not come back out after compressing it with a c-clamp. Put in new rotors and pads after riding around the block the rotor was so hot it was smoking and is now discolored.

What are some possible suggestions on what to do?

 

If the piston won't come out of the caliper, looks like you need to order a new caliper. If it did come out after putting it all back together and hitting the brake pedal, you will definitely want to check your slide pins. The IS is known for the slide pins to rust and freeze (on the front and rear calipers).

 

Is this a 250 or a 350?

Reason I ask is that the front calipers are very different, and a diagnosis would be more accurate with a little more information...

 

^Judging by previous threads, its a 250,which leads me to believe its the unfortunately common seized caliper. The slide pin and the bore it is supposed to slide in and out of got full of moisture and rusted up. Same reason why I had to replace BOTH rear calipers on my 350. Same design, same flaw.

 

I fixed it, took it all apart again lubed up everything again. Bleed the brakes this time and works perfect now. Thanks for all the quick response

 

Hey Gville350, if you are still around, I have a question, my IS350 has developed vibration when hitting the brakes, sort of like when the pads are wore or there is like a warped rotor.

So when we got back from vacation, I replaced the front pads cause I knew they were getting close, 39k. The new pads didn't get rid of the vibration completely, when you apply the brakes. Its somewhat better.
The brakes were perfect, but about a 1000 miles from home they started this dam vibration when slowing down. Always happens when you are away. Guess I will take the rears off and look at them.
Is the slide pin the one on the top of the pads, that the spring applies pressure to the brake pads ?
Mine cleaned up very nice.
let me know what you suggest.
thanks

 

^Age/miles of the front and rear rotors? So the front pads have very few miles on them right now I assume. What pads did you go with and did you perform a bed-in braking procedure? Did you install new shims or re-used the original ones? Did you lube up the pins? Have the rear calipers been test to see If they're seized up?

 

if you are applying the brakes and feel a vibration/ shaking in the steering wheel, your front rotors need to be replaced OR resurfaced. if you feel the vibration/ shaking coming from the brake pedal when applying the brakes, the rear rotors need to be replaced OR resurfaced.

as far as the slide pin, the rear caliper has two of them. they should be the 14mm hex nut ends.

 

The rotors are original, 7 years old with 39k miles.
The new pads I put on the front today are the Toyota Lexus OEM, high friction high dust, and have 12 miles on them now. I cleaned and used the old shims. The rear pads are original, they have 39K.
I did bed in procedure, 30mph, stop for thirty seconds, repeated 3 times. They are smooth at a low speed like that. then Later a 50mph to a stop , less vibration using moderate pressure for a quicker stop. Way better than it was before with the new pads, but not perfect.

No I didn't lube up the slide pins. Looking at Panda08's reply, it sounds like there are actual bolts/pins that hold the caliper on, and these need to be taken out cleaned and a special lubricant should be used on them ? I did not take the caliper off. I will do that tomorrow.
The pistons on the front calipers look brand new after being cleaned up, not frozen at all.
The rear brakes had the recall performed on them years ago where new stainless steel pins were lubed and replaced. I have never messed with them, the car has not been in any snow or salt. I will check them both tomorrow.

Interesting Panda, actually It was not a shake in the pedal or the steering wheel, it was more like the car was going over a rumble strip. You know like on the edge of the road on the interstate. that kinda rumble as you come to a stop.
I don't have that now, just a slight shudder, and none if you stop more aggressively from 40mph.
But I only did that once with the new pads, I will look for this slide pins. Thanks for the help guys,
I appreciate it.

 

^Start with doing the "free" fixes; lube up the moving parts, including the pin and the hardware where it touches the pads. Since you have a 350, the caliper design up front is significantly different from that of the 250; there won't be a main sliding pin to re-lube. The one I'm speaking of is simply the one that locks the pads down into the caliper and slides through the top hole in the pads and through the caliper...seem here :



Seeing that the front rotors are the original ones, if re-lubing the hardware doesn't fix anything, then it's more than likely the rotors.

And about the rears; like you, my car had the rear caliper brake recall performed on it; well, around 50k miles those rear calipers were 100% seized and 75% seized up (still have them in the attic) even after the recall. So, you might as well look into this still. Remove the caliper off the rotor and hub; press the floating portion of the caliper outward and inward. Even with the hydro line still attached you should still be able move that portion of the caliper. If not, the sliding pin is seized within the caliper bore seen the pic below :

Here's a look at the caliper and a visual to show you what I mean in the "bottom" caliper pic on the right side :

 

Thanks Gville350, Those pics of the rear calipers are exactly what I needed to know. I pulled one caliper off the rear today and the piston seemed to moved pretty well. I cleaned those 'slides' ( lack of a better name), where the pads rest on the caliper. I still have the wheel off so I will look at it closer in the morning.
Thanks for the pics.
If I do need to get rotors for the front, they just slide off the hub? I don't need them 'pressed' on or off, right ?

and don't get no KYB shocks for the rear, They went soft after about 900 miles from home and I think Interstate 84 in PA, NY and CT finished them off. Man thats some rough road.
Its riding like I have no shocks on there now, Thats the next job.
I will pull the other rear wheel tomorrow and look at that caliper. Thanks again,
Have a good one !

 

rotors arent pressed on the car, once you remove the caliper the rotor is pretty loose

 

^On some cars the rotors might be loose; but most more than likely they'll be slightly rusted on there. So grab a rubber or plastic mallet and give it some good smacks too loosen. When re-installing, use anti-seize so it doesn't so that again.

Glad to hear the rear calipers are still good; saved yourself hundreds right there!

GL!

 

Thanks Gville350, yeah I took the pins out of the rear calipers, cleaned them up, shined them up with steel wool and they are pretty slick now. Whatever grease they used on the 'recall' for the rear calipers, it is long gone as they were dry. I used a small amount graphite coating I use on a bicycle chains to see if it helps fight that little bit of rust that shows where the pads slide on the caliper and pin.
Interesting how one very small spring holds the pins which in turn holds those brake pads in place.
Pads were not wore much at all. I appreciate the pics you posted,

I am going to take the front rotors off, and take them over to a shop I know very well and see if I have warped them. I still have a small amount vibration when you get on the brakes moderately. Not a big fan of getting them turned but if its not much I may have them do it.
I can always get two new rotors, I saw some guy selling them on here somewhere.
I may take them off today if it doesn't rain.
I appreciate the help and advice, I needed a rubber mallet anyways, I was going to get a couple rotors for my Jeep, so I can use it on both.

 

Let us know if the turned rotors help!