here is my suspension build for my mild street drift setup. all of these mods are performed myself and lemme tell ya; im no ASE mechanic in suspensions; just just been working on cars for a while. nothing is really tightened down because it will all need to be dialed in once completed. so here ya go.

this was a different thread so im just updating it as a build.

UPDATE***

the majority of my BV items came in yesterday! man this stuff is top flight very beefy items and tons of adjustment room within the arms. the spacers are thick and look up to par for more abuse than im gonna throw at em. once the suspension is finished; ill be taking a little break from mods due to buying our 1st home next year. but until then!!<<<<<<<

 

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...-bushings.html

there are alot of ways to do it depends on which bushing you are removing.

1. you can use a press like you mentioned but that would require complete removal of the subframe. which would be a good idea and you would have access to swap out the primary subframe bushings while your at it.

2. C-clamps and appropriate sized pipe/tube/socket. the idea is to use the clamp to press the bushing out and into the pipe/tube/socket. ideally for smaller bushings like the ones on the sides of the diff.

3. heat. you can use mapp/propane torch to heat up the rubber and make it easier to remove, or even just burn the old bushings out.. but careful because metal can deform if heated. say you had a sleeve that needs to be a certain diamater and you heat it up really good and hit it with a hammer it will deform easier while its hot then cold. in some situations you can heat the outside metal until the rubber inside starts to smoke a little and just use a hammer to drive the bushing out. then dip the hot metal part in room tempature ( NOT COLD!) water and bring it back to a temp where you can handle it again. dont dip it into really cold water while it's hot the metal can also deform from the repid tempature change.

 

assuming youre doing it with the subframe still on the car and cant dip the part in water and you have access to a water hose would be easier and you wouldn't have to worry about the temp of the water unless its freezing or 100+ degrees outside.

 

Thanks scstone! I was thinking of the heat process. And yes; I have the whole sub frame removed. Question though, is there any material other than the rubber that's supposed to come out? When I look at it, there seems to be a metal surround that needs to be extracted as well

 

some bushings have either steel or alum. inner and/or outer sleeves. some kits don't come with the sleeves and you have to keep and use your original sleeves. that's why i elaborated on heat because you don't want to deform the sleeves so they are the right diameter for the bushings to fit properly, kinda like putting a circle into an oval. you can always buy new sleeves or keep the original ones as initially it's the oem rubber that deteriorates not the metal, metal corrodes,cracks or deforms.

 

got cha.

on a that note; i was actually able to hammer them out a little bit so i will proceed to press them the rest of the way.

 

sweet, glad I could help a fellow Texan/SC owner =)

 

For the rear diff bushings in the subframe I burnt the rubber out w/ a torch and cut the sleeves out with a sawzall.


For the front diff bushings, you're supposed to somehow press/hammer the whole bushing unit out first . Unfortunately, I don't follow directions well and just went fire happy on them and ended up cutting into the bushing holder part with a sawzall to get the metal sleeve out.

 

ARODDALOB SMASH!! lol

good point AROD. I don't think I mentioned it's best to get at the rubber first than the sleeve if possible.

I didn't include cutting/sawing before because of that. thats the thing with sawzall once you get it going it's hard to stop on a dime.. that small cut shouldn't be a problem. you could use some metal filler and give it a light sand for piece of mind.

 

yeah, I never really figured it'd cause too much trouble. I went ahead with the ghetto procedure.because that lip portion that I cut into goes up against the subframe anyway, so it doesn't support any weight or anything. I've been dd-ing it for the last half year or so and also been to a couple drift events with it like that so it seems like no real harm was done. Def would not recommend anyone do this, though.

 

i was able to apply a chisel with the hammer and bang em out! now i can proceed with my order and get this suspension done. ill post up pics of what ive been up to in the days to come

 

awesome. pictures would be sweet! hope all goes well.

 

okay here are a couple pics of what ive been doing. i don't do a lot of step by step stuff but what thread is cool without pics?! i'm in the process of doing the 5 speed conversion as well but i'm searching for a Soarer R154, go figure LOL! this is a "street drift car" that will see the track sometimes but i love the streets and the atmosphere of drifting through town

i know the sub frame color wont appeal to many but hey; its my car

 

wow talk about eye candy. your build is looking awesome. the paint looks sweet on the subframe, how did you paint it? gun,cans,powder,clear? it really popped when I was scrolling down. nice tie rods and it looks like youre on the right track. you should paint your sway bars and stuff like that too. would look sweet looking under the car!

check this out if you havn't already.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...300-build.html

 

the battle version items in the rear should add some color as well. i decided to go with PBM coilovers on the car. bad thing happened this afternoon though. i was banging in the BV solid rack mounts and one of them broke! new steering rack has been ordered so that should fix that. ill post pics tomorrow. other stuff should be here next week.

as for the sub frame; i stripped it down to bare metal; hit it with 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of Duplicolor Purple Metalilic paint HT. i love it! pretty popular trend in Japan on demo drift cars with extensive suspension work