WTBIS350

Hey everybody,

Doing some work on my 06 IS350 and i have to replace a few minor parts on the left rear parking brake (right side is ok). I went ahead and ordered a kit from Autozone. I did some brake work, hub replacement on my CRX a few years back and the parking brake setup looks more or less the same. The only issue i'm worried about is getting the mechanism that connects to the parking brake line. The springs and shoe orientation i can figure out, but a diagram or a pic would be helpful.

So here is what i need help with

1) is pulling the hub (the one that has the wheel studs) necessary? or can it be done without pulling the hub?

2) if the hub has to be pulled will a 2/3 hub puller work ok? (pic is below)

3) there are 2 pins that insert through the back of the dust shield and a spring is meant to go over it, and a retaining plate (size of a quarter) with a slot is meant to keep the pins from falling out. Can you install these via hand or do you need a special tool from Toyota to install the retaining plate?

I dont know how much pressure i need to put on the spring to get it to compress. Do i need a tool similar to a valve spring compressor or as mentioned can i just push on the spring and plate until its far enough so that i can twist the plate 90 degrees and secure the pin?

4) can anyone provide a pic or diagram of the parking brake assembly installed on the car? I would prefer not to have to remove the right rear caliper and rotor again and use the other side for reference.



pic of the hub puller i was going to rent
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ima...0000001492.jpg

WTBIS350

Wanted to bump this back up to see if anyone had a pic of this from their IS250/350 FSM, doesnt have to be the full FSM just the page which has the diagram of the parking brake will work. I've seen some generic pics of Lexus brakes online, but i wanted 250/350 specific pics so i could see the orientation of the mechanism that connects to the brake cable.

thanks!

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Uhm, I'm not sure why you would need a hub puller; the hubs on the 2IS are merely attached via 4 bolts. Remove those and the hub (hub and bearing are one piece...this includes the studs) will come off.

GL!

WTBIS350

Really? i wasnt really paying close attention, i was just focusing on swapping my rotors and brakes out. I only ever messed with hubs once and that was to replace all the wheel studs on one of my old cars. And for that car i had to use hub pullers, so i figured it was the same for all cars.

So you are saying all i would have to remove are:

wheel
pads and calipers
rotor
remove 4 bolts

And the hub/bearing/wheel stud assembly all come off? and i should then have easier access to the area the parking brake assembly installs to?

WTBIS350

We are probably talking about the same thing, but just to be 100% certain. In the youtube vid if you pause it at 3:33 this is what i'm working on.


I am having to install everything behind the hub/wheel studs. The two parking brake shoes, all the springs, retaining pins and caps, adjusting mechanism, brake lever (that attaches to the parking brake line) and so on. And actually, after looking at the video myself i'm not wondering if it is even necessary to remove the hubs.

My main concern is installing the retaining caps and pins. In the youtube vid at 3:33 you will see the 5 wheelstuds on the hub and 5 open circles between each stud. Look at the top most circle and behind it you will see a metallic circle resting on the parking brake shoe. This is the retaining cap that i am talking about. Do i have to remove the wheel hub to be able to put these in place? or can i use the holes on the wheel hub?

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Here is a pic of a IS350 rear hub assembly :



Notice the 4-bolt holes that would attach to the knuckle. To remove, you'd be removing the axle nut and removing those four bolts. But the thing is, do you really need to? Can you manage to do the needed maintenance to the parking brake HDW without removing the hub. I think you can manage with the right tools.

GL!

WTBIS350

Yah but the splined center is where the axle goes through. Some cars, or at least the ones i have done axle work on all had axle>hub connections that needed a hub puller to break the hub loose due to the axle being too tightly fit in there. I mean if you have personally swapped out hubs before on your IS350 without using a hub puller thats fine i can accept that, good news for me cause then i can do the same. But if you have never done it before and you are just guessing based on pics of the hub assembly, then that doesn't really do me any good.

And the other thing about removing the hub to work on the parking brake is that there is very little room to work with. As i mentioned before my main concern is the installation of the pins, retaining spring, and retaining caps. Can it be done with the hub in place and i work through the holes in the hub? or will i have to remove the hubs? If i had to guess i'm actually leaning more towards the hubs not having to be pulled. To me it seems like it wouldnt make sense for parking brake replacement to require a hub pull, but i just wanted to be sure.

WTBIS350

Found a good pic of what i think is a typical procedure for what i have been asking about. The holes i mentioned on the hub? i found a pic where someone was using a hole to install the retaining pins. Granted the pic is for a Toyota Sequoia, but i'm guessing this procedure isn't limited to that one car. That's why i mentioned that it doesnt seem like it would make sense for a simple parking brake job to require a hub removal.

http://www.perpetualjon.com/files/to...ake_assy09.jpg

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Space behind there is very limited for sure, but before you go trying to remove the hub I'd at least try to attemp the parking brake fix first. With the right tools, you should be able to get it done. I LOVE my LONG pliers from Harbor Freight; perhaps a pair would be of help to you here.

I'd really doubt a puller would be needed to release the axle from the hub itself.

Sconnie

So I just did this and came up with a little trick. Use two small zip-ties to compress the spring all the way down. Orientate the "little square" on the sides of the spring and leave the tails (these work great to position the spring). Once you get the washer in place and in the locked position, just cut the zip ties and pull them out with the tails. After you cut the first tie, you can use the second tail to spin the spring around for easy access for the second cut.

The first spring took half an hour... Probably a few minutes a spring using the zip ties.