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The rear spacer would be machined from T6 aluminum and the front would be a modified OEM mount with 2 new longer grade 8 equivalent bolts. So far this is the least expensive way to get it done.
If I got 5 people on board I could do it for $95 for the whole kit. Less than that and my cost for making the rear spacer goes up a pretty good chunk so for a one off it might be closer to like $130.
don't let this turn into a group buy unless you want to become a vendor. there are a bunch of rules regarding that stuff. if you want to sell some extra in the classifieds then that can be different, but I think people can figure out how to make a spacer and grab some bolts from the info provided.
All, it is just more noticeable the lower you go. I added 1/4" spacers up front and 1/8" in the rear to get the suspension travel I want (and perfect ride height for me). The car rides and handles great now, I hated the harshness of coilovers.
I thought i was the only one it happened to. Ill most likely be doing coilovers and the like to my suspension. I have KYB and Tanabe nf210's, which ride great and after settling, look great. Those will be up for sale soon.
So I put Espelir springs on my car and I too have noticed my right side is higher t han my left. I actually really like how low my driver side is. So this fix will raise my driver side or lower the passenger side? If its gonna raise my driver side then I'll just get coilovers. Should've gone that route to begin with
So I put Espelir springs on my car and I too have noticed my right side is higher t han my left. I actually really like how low my driver side is. So this fix will raise my driver side or lower the passenger side? If its gonna raise my driver side then I'll just get coilovers. Should've gone that route to begin with
It'll raise your driver side. Every time I've installed coilovers on my SC the driverside is always about 10mm higher than the passenger side to make the front even.
Had the same problem and have done by professionals and even advice from them. I scanned around and found this post. So sad its late and should I be the one changing it. But thanks for this post for knowledge.
One observation looking through this thread is most seem to not catch that it is not just the height that needs to be adjusted, but boergy seems to have pointed out the geometry is different as well. It appears he measured the shock needs to be moved out 5mm to create the same geometry side to side. This being the case, it would change the "motion ratio" ever so slightly. I think of it this way, what would be effected by this geometry, like a fulcrum, if you push at a point further out on the lever arm from the rotation point it doesn't take as much force to get the same result at the end (tire patch). Really interesting observation.
Edit: I did this today. I slotted per Boergy's dimensions. Rather than weld washers on I made a shim plate with hole diameters same as the bolt so it could not slip. I had to grind the edges of the washers so they would fit the contour of the countersink area.
Bare control arm Shim plate Shock bracket slotted Washer ground to fit that i ended up not using, used originals and ground those to fit Final position torqued at 40 ft-lbs