Which bushings and wear and tear suspension items should I replace on my 116k 2008 IS250? And which brands are the best?

 

Figs engineering. Expensive as hell tho

 

http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...ory&path=41_43



I know they are. Which bushings and wear and tear items should I get so my car can be epic. I only ordered the front lower arm bushing 90 high performance so far.

 

first, i would do inner and outer tie rods, lower control ball joints, upper a-arm balljoint just to make everything feel new again since its high mileage.

from figs, get the adjustable sway bar stabilizer links, lower bushing to help toe when braking.

 

So far from FIGS I got this:

http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=138

I hear they have the best parts.

I already bought this...

-Fortune 500 coilovers with swift springs 14kg front/10kg rear and rear extenders
-Cusco front and rear sway bars
-Cusco front strut tower bar
-F-Sport chassis brace
-spc front ball joint
-spc rear camber link


What else from FIGS should I get, like bushings or anything that's worth it?

 

Also,

Is this worth it?

http://is.sewellparts.com/accessorie...2008/5645.html


Given my setup. Thanks guys.

 

BALLER!!! Get an isf ecu.

 

Will do for sure. I read more and it seems to make a huge difference.

 

Here's my final setup!

-Fortune 500 coilovers with swift springs 14kg front/10kg rear and rear extenders
-Cusco front and rear sway bars
-Cusco front strut tower bar
-Tanabe Sustec Under Brace
-F-Sport Rear Chassis Brace
-F-Sport Carbon Fiber Shift ****
-F-Sport Steering Damper
-12' IS-F Steering ECU
-SPC Front ball joints
-SPC Rear camber arms
-FIGS Front Lower Arm Rear Mount #2 Polyurethane Bushing High Performance 90
-StopTech Street Performance brake pads x 4 (front/rear)
-StopTech SportStop slotted rotors x 4 (front/rear)
-StopTech Stainless Steal brake lines (front/rear)
-225/40/18 Bridgestone Potenza S-04 Pole Position (2)
-255/40/18 Bridgestone Potenza S-04 Pole Position (2)

Can't wait to get these installed. The Cusco sways won't be here until another 5-6 weeks. Thanks guys.

 

Sounds like you're on a roll. I would also get these from Figs (I had them and quality is top notch).
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...&product_id=81

I also had the GT Spec front lower bar that they sell and the Tanabe one you bought. Just search for it online, it's only about $160. Sounds like you'll love it.

Edit: here is a link to somewhere you can buy it. http://deftmotion.com/toyota-lexus/l...is350-isf.html

Also if you're gonna track the car, get higher temp brake fluid while you're doing the brakes.

 

I will buy the TOE links asap but do my SPC parts conflict with this or no? Also why would you get them? What benefits does it do/what will it fix? Those little FIG parts aren't cheap lol. But if you can feel a difference and its something that should be done given I'm going semi all out via suspension lmk asap


Also I will buy the GT Spec front lower bar, but which one? There's so many different shapes.

And I have a question, will my Cusco front strut tower bar do ANYTHING at all? or is it literally just for ALL SHOW? Thank you so much for helping me.

Oh I also purchased Bridgestone Potenza S-04 Pole Position tires, what you think of those?

 

To answer your questions....the Figs toe links adjust toe so you can adjust toe as you'd like and you can prevent tire wear. I'd get them since you have a bunch of money. This part isn't about feeling anything though.
I added the link to the GT Spec lower bar so that's the exact one.
The Cusco front upper engine brace you won't feel too much I think wither. I had that more for show but I had all the braces and sways also. Just get it since you're getting everything else.

 

I got the Tanabe Sustec Front Under 2 Point Front Brace. I'm realizing the front strut tower bar won't due much since the Tanabe 2point brace and GTSPEC lower bar are the same thing which is like a tower bar that connects the front lower arm mount bushings which IMO is critical.

Is it best to leave the engine cover on or off when installing the front strut tower bar?

 

In addition to, and to reinforce what has been added:

Glad to see someone made this choice, I REALLY look forward to your impressions with these coilovers.
As has been mentioned this isn't going to make a noticeable performance difference. These cars don't have struts, so the little bit of movement you get in the shock towers isn't going to hurt performance.
Although these will give you the camber adjustment you need, there are other (IMO, better) choices available.
Many of us are using Megan front upper control arms. They replace the whole upper control arm, so they replace the ball joint and upper control arm bushings. (It has been rumored that FIGS is going to start selling these sometime, but right now I think Megan is your best bet)
For the rear end I am using Megan upper camber arms. FIGS makes better parts and has two different solutions for adjusting rear camber. You can buy their MEGA Rear upper links, or their MEGA lower arms (I'd suggest the "economy" version rather than the "race", since I don't think you are taking this car to the track much).
This is, IMO, THE must have bushing set from FIGS, so good choice!
The Stainless brake lines won't do ANYTHING for you. Save the money and spend it elsewhere.
You are going for broke everywhere else in the suspension, so may I suggest better tires? Knowing you have an M3 should you choose to take a car to the track, I won't suggest more aggressive rubber like I do in many other cases. So, the easy answer here is to get a set of Michelin Pilot Super Sports, you'll get better performance, and better treadwear than the Bridgestones. I would also suggest you size the front at 245/35-18 or 245/40-18, it will help reduce some understeer.
As suggested by ISFPOWER, while you have the car in pieces you absolutely need to replace the lower ball joints, and the tie rod ends on the front of the car (you will be replacing the upper ball joint with either SPC or Megan so you have that covered) with OEM replacements (there are no better aftermarket solutions for these that I am aware of). I notice that mine are worn at ~75k miles, yours have to be really worn at 116k miles.

I'll also add my vote for a set of aftermarket rear toe arms. The factory cam-bolts are adequate at best, but to really dial in the toe you will want a set of aftermarket parts. Here again Megan makes a set, but FIGS makes a better set.

As far as the rest of the suspension bushings in the car, you have replaced the most important set with the FIGS lower rears you have. After that its a slippery slope. I'd love to replace every other bushing in the car with the FIGS stuff, but it is an expensive proposition, and with the super soft subframe bushings on the rear of the car (no off the shelf aftermarket solution for those that I know of) the benefits are debatable.

 

I love your input. Sadly I got the Pole Positions because they seem really good and were cheaper (I know I'm spending a lot so it doesn't make much sense) but yeah I can't change that. Maybe next time.

Sadly I picked SPC over Megan, I was told from who I bought it from that SPC is superior. As far as FIGS MEGA camber arms.. yeah I'll use my SPC for now I'm sure it's fine. Glad I got the right FIGS bushings though.


I guess I'll check out Sewell and get those lower ball joints and tie rod ends. ***EDIT*** I found these for tie rods on a website. I'm going to go with MOOG, and replace both the inner and outter tie rods.




I also got the Tanabe Sustec Under Brace (Front) - your opinions?

And I got the cat-back system Invidia Q300 (w/ midpipes) if it's too loud or sounds gay I'm going to sell it but they seem like good quality and their exhaust cans don't low. Let me know what you think of this as well, as far as sound and anything else.