Rough noisy ride on Megan EZ Street Coilovers
#1
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Rough noisy ride on Megan EZ Street Coilovers
Hey guys, I know these suspension threads can be difficult to diagnose, but I figured it is worth a shot before I take the car to an actual professional.
Here's the background:
-Bought the car a year ago with stock suspension. First, I installed H&R springs, which were awesome, they rode nicely and were quiet.
-Then I installed an F sport rear sway bar. I had issues with one of the end links and had to use a dremel to cut the nut off and put a slow in the end of the end link bolt (where the hex slot is) because if was stripped and I made a flat head screw driver slot. Temporarily I used a standard metric nut, but eventually got the correct nut from Toyota.
- After a while, the shocks started to feel like they were getting worn out (original shocks at about 110,000kms). I was noticing a harsher ride and the back end felt like it would float over bumps.
- I decided that instead of dishing out money for shocks, I would just switch to coilovers since the Megan EZ streets are priced so well.
- So, I removed the stock shocks/H&R springs and put in the Megan EZ street coilovers with the wheel gap flush.
Here's my issue, the car is riding quite rough and a bit noisy. No excessive clunks or anything super bad, but more of a loose 'blap' sound over bumps. I have checked all the bolts and everything is tight.
When I set the coilovers to a fairly stiff setting, the car feels much more solid and less of a loose feeling, but then it obviously rides super solid and every bump feels like it's going to rattle the car apart (when I was stock, I had gotten rid of the majority of the rattles, but now they're everywhere!).
If I set the coilovers a bit softer, then it feels much looser and sloppy, but still fairly rough, especially over larger bumps. The problem seems to get even worse when there's someone else in the car with me.
I have already tried re-seating the F sport sway bar and lubing up the bushings and verifying the end links are tight.
As far as I can tell, it feels like the shocks are bad. Almost as if they aren't dampening the ride very well. I don't know what the odds of this are though. The rear of the car is definitely the worst, but it's hard to tell how bad just the front is.
I don't think the UCA is hitting the car, I mean, I am not slammed or anything, just enough to get rid of wheel gap. I haven't actually looked though, but I don't think the sounds and feeling really matches up.
Both rear tires are at 37 PSI and the fronts at 35 PSI, as per spec. The only difference is I am running 225/45/18 and 245/45/18 winter tires on stock rims. I was able to get a good deal on the tires and didn't think the thicker sidewall would do any harm.
Anyone have any suggestions on what to check next? Is there a way to verify if the coilovers are bad?
I drove in a stock IS350 (similar year and mileage) and it rode so much nicer on the original shocks.
Also, the problem does seem to be getting worse over time.
Here's the background:
-Bought the car a year ago with stock suspension. First, I installed H&R springs, which were awesome, they rode nicely and were quiet.
-Then I installed an F sport rear sway bar. I had issues with one of the end links and had to use a dremel to cut the nut off and put a slow in the end of the end link bolt (where the hex slot is) because if was stripped and I made a flat head screw driver slot. Temporarily I used a standard metric nut, but eventually got the correct nut from Toyota.
- After a while, the shocks started to feel like they were getting worn out (original shocks at about 110,000kms). I was noticing a harsher ride and the back end felt like it would float over bumps.
- I decided that instead of dishing out money for shocks, I would just switch to coilovers since the Megan EZ streets are priced so well.
- So, I removed the stock shocks/H&R springs and put in the Megan EZ street coilovers with the wheel gap flush.
Here's my issue, the car is riding quite rough and a bit noisy. No excessive clunks or anything super bad, but more of a loose 'blap' sound over bumps. I have checked all the bolts and everything is tight.
When I set the coilovers to a fairly stiff setting, the car feels much more solid and less of a loose feeling, but then it obviously rides super solid and every bump feels like it's going to rattle the car apart (when I was stock, I had gotten rid of the majority of the rattles, but now they're everywhere!).
If I set the coilovers a bit softer, then it feels much looser and sloppy, but still fairly rough, especially over larger bumps. The problem seems to get even worse when there's someone else in the car with me.
I have already tried re-seating the F sport sway bar and lubing up the bushings and verifying the end links are tight.
As far as I can tell, it feels like the shocks are bad. Almost as if they aren't dampening the ride very well. I don't know what the odds of this are though. The rear of the car is definitely the worst, but it's hard to tell how bad just the front is.
I don't think the UCA is hitting the car, I mean, I am not slammed or anything, just enough to get rid of wheel gap. I haven't actually looked though, but I don't think the sounds and feeling really matches up.
Both rear tires are at 37 PSI and the fronts at 35 PSI, as per spec. The only difference is I am running 225/45/18 and 245/45/18 winter tires on stock rims. I was able to get a good deal on the tires and didn't think the thicker sidewall would do any harm.
Anyone have any suggestions on what to check next? Is there a way to verify if the coilovers are bad?
I drove in a stock IS350 (similar year and mileage) and it rode so much nicer on the original shocks.
Also, the problem does seem to be getting worse over time.
#2
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Idk if this helps, but I have an is250 with Megan ez only. Lowered it to a 2 finger gap front and rear running 225/40 front and 245/40 rear. I too understand what you mean when you put it to hard and to soft. What I found works best for me is 10-12 clicks toward hard in the front and 8-10 clicks hard in the rear. But seeing you at slower than me and have a sway bar, you will have to keep playing around with your settings.
#3
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Idk if this helps, but I have an is250 with Megan ez only. Lowered it to a 2 finger gap front and rear running 225/40 front and 245/40 rear. I too understand what you mean when you put it to hard and to soft. What I found works best for me is 10-12 clicks toward hard in the front and 8-10 clicks hard in the rear. But seeing you at slower than me and have a sway bar, you will have to keep playing around with your settings.
#5
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
That definitely makes me think there is a serious issue. But now whether it has to do with my installation, the coilovers themselves, or something else associated with the suspension... I don't know
#6
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Just to verify that I installed them properly, when you look at the coilover next to the spring/shock, I didn't need to remove anything from the spring/shock to install on the coilover, correct? Just pop the new assembly in place of the old?
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Review this video about setting the "pre-load" on coilovers. More than likely you nor the manufacturer had done this previously. The part about the preloading comes in around 2:30 :
BC Racing Coilover Spring Change and Preload Adjustment on Vimeo.mp4 - YouTube
BC Racing Coilover Spring Change and Preload Adjustment on Vimeo.mp4 - YouTube
Now, is it possible to adjust this while they are installed?
#9
I'll probably get chastised for this, being Megan's are oh so popular on this site b/c form over function, right? but you literally bought the cheapest coilovers made for our car. Could it be that they're just crap parts and while others say they have no problem with the Megan's EZ, quality control was asleep the day yours got made, or you have spring rates that aren't really what they say they are, spring rates that would dyno different at every corner, or just that the coilovers aren't what you expected. I mean there could be a hundred reasons why they're riding like crap and noisy, but honestly, with Megan, IMHO you get what you pay for.
#10
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
I'll probably get chastised for this, being Megan's are oh so popular on this site b/c form over function, right? but you literally bought the cheapest coilovers made for our car. Could it be that they're just crap parts and while others say they have no problem with the Megan's EZ, quality control was asleep the day yours got made, or you have spring rates that aren't really what they say they are, spring rates that would dyno different at every corner, or just that the coilovers aren't what you expected. I mean there could be a hundred reasons why they're riding like crap and noisy, but honestly, with Megan, IMHO you get what you pay for.
However, the preload setting does sound like it could definitely be the root of the issue.
Preload adjustments would also explain why the noise seems worse when going over a pot hole than over a bump. Bumps are hard and uncomfortable, but pot holes are a noisier clunk.
I'm glad that the solution may have been found. But is there a way to properly and safely adjust the preload without removing the coilovers?
Last edited by getafewliv; 01-19-15 at 03:46 PM.
#11
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I've help change Coilovers before on my friends S2K w/ D2 racing and my other friend is300 CXracing coils and they do not mess with the pre set top spring setting. meaning dont mess around with the top section only loosen the bottom bolt and spin the bottom tube section of the coil to get the height you want and lock it in with the bottom bolt thing. Don't tamper with the two top screws locks. It will mess up your manufactured pre-load setting and may ruined your ride quality of dampening.
As for your picture, yes its direct swap. No add on necessary.
As for your picture, yes its direct swap. No add on necessary.
#12
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
I've help change Coilovers before on my friends S2K w/ D2 racing and my other friend is300 CXracing coils and they do not mess with the pre set top spring setting. meaning dont mess around with the top section only loosen the bottom bolt and spin the bottom tube section of the coil to get the height you want and lock it in with the bottom bolt thing. Don't tamper with the two top screws locks. It will mess up your manufactured pre-load setting and may ruined your ride quality of dampening.
As for your picture, yes its direct swap. No add on necessary.
As for your picture, yes its direct swap. No add on necessary.
Also, when I got the coilovers, they did not have the non-AWD version in stock or something and had to swap the bottom bracket piece that is different. So, there is a very good chance that the preload may have been messed with as well.
It appears that I can take off my wheel, and adjust the preload on the coilovers without removing them. But then obviously I don't really have a very good idea of what the preload is set to or how it will affect the handling. How much will it really matter or affect driving? What if I just tighten it a small amount to ensure there's a bit more preload to get rid of the noise? I am thinking I will try just the rear coilovers at first and see if that gets rid of the noise.
#13
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Idk if this will help any but refer to the link below on the install. He talks briefly about setting the preload. I did it his way and haven't had a problem. Shouldn't need to dismantle the coilovers.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...our-isx50.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...our-isx50.html