2007 IS250 AWD Brake Upgrade – IS350/GS350 AWD Parts.
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So with about 115k miles on the IS250 the brakes are shot. 2nd set of pads and rotors cut once around 75k miles iirc.
I am very pleased with the upgrade. Brakes are way, way way better having gone from old warped and weak IS250 setup to a new (perhaps better that OEM) IS/GS350 system. I will be burnishing the rotors sometime in the future.
Links and Cross References
*******.com (t_o_y_o_D_I_Y)
Used to determine part numbers and commonality among AWD IS250, IS350 & GS350
Checked part numbers for Front/Rear axle hubs to determine like part numbers.
partsgeek.com – Very good online retailer of new and remanufactured brake components. Rotors, Calipers & Brake pads sourced from here.
Wikipedia was a great help to sort out chassis codes and model years (’10-’13 IS350 AWD - GSE26 ‘08-‘12 GS AWD - GRS196) for sourcing the various components.
wikipedia.org/wiki/Lexus_IS
wikipedia.org/wiki/Lexus_GS
LexusPartsNow.com
Used for miscellaneous parts such as dust shields, gaskets for brake lines, etc…
Parts List
StopTech Sport Slotted Brake Disc – Canada Spec (Only inventory that remained)
Rotor Front/Right 95994-05390512 (GS350 AWD)
Rotor Front/Left 95994-05390511 (GS350 AWD)
StopTech Sport Slotted Brake Disc
Rotor Rear/Right 95994-07158089 (GS350 AWD)
Rotor Rear/Left 95994-07158088 (GS350 AWD)
Pads Front 31998-05137578 (Akebono ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramic Pad)
Pads Rear 31998-05009501 (Akebono ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramic Pad)
WBR Remanufactured Brake Calipers
Caliper Front/Right W0133-1904533 (Colored Black and comes with new hardware)
Caliper Front/Left W0133-1904564 (Colored Black and comes with new hardware)
Caliper Rear/Right W0133-1905146 (Comes with new hardware except the metal tie clip between the two main pins)
Caliper Rear/Left W0133-1905156 (Comes with new hardware except the metal tie clip between the two main pins)
Misc:
47781-30240 Front brake disc cover right (Not used)
47782-30240 Front brake disc cover left (Not used)
47389-50020 Front/Rear Brake line to caliper gaskets. 2 sets for a total of 4. My refurbished calipers had new banjo bolts and gaskets. I used the new bolts. The gaskets were different than OEM ones. Maybe they would work just the same. idk? (Lexus states Non-Reusable Part)
Tips
Use silicon based grease for caliper slides. "Syl-Glide" is the product I found recommended.
Clean rotors with brake cleaner (Do this outside! Brake cleaner reeks!)
I cleaned pads and rotors during/after install with rubbing alcohol. Safer and easier to use inside a garage.
Use lugs to hold rotor in place. Use bungee to hold old caliper and avoid stress to brake line.
Clear caliper-to-knuckle mating surface. I used a small scraper to remove crust and crud
Metal sheers worked great to remove splash/dust shields. (better to swap to correct shields if you have the resources)
Blue lock-tight for large caliper bracket bolts
Antiseize on hub
Spray E-Brake with brake cleaner if needed.
Loosen banjo bolts on caliper brake line while mounted to vehicle
“StopTech Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete"
I am very pleased with the upgrade. Brakes are way, way way better having gone from old warped and weak IS250 setup to a new (perhaps better that OEM) IS/GS350 system. I will be burnishing the rotors sometime in the future.
Links and Cross References
*******.com (t_o_y_o_D_I_Y)
Used to determine part numbers and commonality among AWD IS250, IS350 & GS350
Checked part numbers for Front/Rear axle hubs to determine like part numbers.
partsgeek.com – Very good online retailer of new and remanufactured brake components. Rotors, Calipers & Brake pads sourced from here.
Wikipedia was a great help to sort out chassis codes and model years (’10-’13 IS350 AWD - GSE26 ‘08-‘12 GS AWD - GRS196) for sourcing the various components.
wikipedia.org/wiki/Lexus_IS
wikipedia.org/wiki/Lexus_GS
LexusPartsNow.com
Used for miscellaneous parts such as dust shields, gaskets for brake lines, etc…
Parts List
StopTech Sport Slotted Brake Disc – Canada Spec (Only inventory that remained)
Rotor Front/Right 95994-05390512 (GS350 AWD)
Rotor Front/Left 95994-05390511 (GS350 AWD)
StopTech Sport Slotted Brake Disc
Rotor Rear/Right 95994-07158089 (GS350 AWD)
Rotor Rear/Left 95994-07158088 (GS350 AWD)
Pads Front 31998-05137578 (Akebono ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramic Pad)
Pads Rear 31998-05009501 (Akebono ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramic Pad)
WBR Remanufactured Brake Calipers
Caliper Front/Right W0133-1904533 (Colored Black and comes with new hardware)
Caliper Front/Left W0133-1904564 (Colored Black and comes with new hardware)
Caliper Rear/Right W0133-1905146 (Comes with new hardware except the metal tie clip between the two main pins)
Caliper Rear/Left W0133-1905156 (Comes with new hardware except the metal tie clip between the two main pins)
Misc:
47781-30240 Front brake disc cover right (Not used)
47782-30240 Front brake disc cover left (Not used)
47389-50020 Front/Rear Brake line to caliper gaskets. 2 sets for a total of 4. My refurbished calipers had new banjo bolts and gaskets. I used the new bolts. The gaskets were different than OEM ones. Maybe they would work just the same. idk? (Lexus states Non-Reusable Part)
Tips
Use silicon based grease for caliper slides. "Syl-Glide" is the product I found recommended.
Clean rotors with brake cleaner (Do this outside! Brake cleaner reeks!)
I cleaned pads and rotors during/after install with rubbing alcohol. Safer and easier to use inside a garage.
Use lugs to hold rotor in place. Use bungee to hold old caliper and avoid stress to brake line.
Clear caliper-to-knuckle mating surface. I used a small scraper to remove crust and crud
Metal sheers worked great to remove splash/dust shields. (better to swap to correct shields if you have the resources)
Blue lock-tight for large caliper bracket bolts
Antiseize on hub
Spray E-Brake with brake cleaner if needed.
Loosen banjo bolts on caliper brake line while mounted to vehicle
“StopTech Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete"
Last edited by Gaugster; 12-03-16 at 10:05 AM.
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Here are the main components. Front IS350 calipers came already painted gloss black. Made my color selection easy.
One of the calipers was nicked and banged up bad. I assume from return shipping prior to being refurbished. Mine is not a show car and they function fine.
One of the calipers was nicked and banged up bad. I assume from return shipping prior to being refurbished. Mine is not a show car and they function fine.
Last edited by Gaugster; 09-27-15 at 05:24 AM.
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Adding black epoxy to the rear calipers. I masked off the surface between the caliper bracket and the mating surface of the knuckle.
Last edited by Gaugster; 09-27-15 at 05:51 AM.
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Fronts. I mocked everything up a weekend prior to making the install. Wanted to confirm everything fit prior to opening break lines and making a mess.
Also did a complete brake fluid flush the week before so that only new fluid would go into the new calipers.
Also did a complete brake fluid flush the week before so that only new fluid would go into the new calipers.
Last edited by Gaugster; 09-27-15 at 05:35 AM.
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Here are the rears installed. These splash/dust shields had to be removed also. A bit of a surprise. I read ahead of time that the front dust shields needs more clearance by either pushing back, removing or replacing.
I removed the caliper pivot bolt and applied silicon grease to the slides under the rubber boots. It was more convenient to do this with caliper bolted in place.
I removed the caliper pivot bolt and applied silicon grease to the slides under the rubber boots. It was more convenient to do this with caliper bolted in place.
Last edited by Gaugster; 09-27-15 at 05:53 AM.
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Last but not least. Some images of the finished upgrade. I still run OEM wheels and a different set of winter wheels. Plan for next year is to get some aftermarket wheels and a slight drop.
Last edited by Gaugster; 09-27-15 at 05:46 AM.
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Thanks and yes I am running 17 for now. I think spacers are needed for F Sport type systems as they are bigger.
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I've been rocking that for a while now. It fills the barrel of the wheel quite nicely. Looking into getting 18's though in the future.
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Just a follow up. Parkgeek.com was good to work with and I got all my core refunds in due time. Kind of exceeded my expectations. Even without the core refunds this was a budget BBK upgrade for a IS250. With the core refunds it becomes super low cost option for the IS250 crowd.
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Jeff
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The IS350 comes stock with the 17" wheels, so they definitely clear. can't run any smaller than that though. A lot of aftermarket wheels in 17" may have clearance issues, but that is due to the caliper's width, not the diameter (and some 18's may have the same issue).Jeff
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Hello guys, can someone guide me to the right rotors, I have a is250 awd 2008 and I already got the calipers out of an IS350 2006, which rotors can I buy. The one listed in this post are hard to find. I already looked at ebay, rockauto and geek parts