CreativeS

I have to push brake all the way to stop the car. Mechanic said I have to change the master cylinder.

Any one used Centric parts, how reliable is it? I cam across this http://www.ebay.com/itm/282057256322?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Is it an easy DIY? any thread link, please?

Deathrow23

iTrader: (8)

I changed my Master cylinder and brake booster at the same time. the issue that made me check it out was that when i was stopped at a light, about a few seconds after holding the brake pedal, the brake pedal would go all the way down to the floor ( i guess the vacuum was not holding the pressure anymore ) .
it wasnt too bad of a job, more of a pain in the *** than being hard. its a little messy with the brake fluid since you have to unscrew, remove the lines. just put an old shirt or cloth underneath the brake cylinder area so it can soak it up and not get on your paint as much..
Once i removed the vacuum brake booster, it was filled with brake fluid inside of it.
i originally just bought the brake master cylinder itself, it might have been the same part you are talking about. it was about $125 or so. after changing it with that, everytime i hit the brake, the first inch or so of pressing down on it, i would hear a squishy/air like sound. So i ended up buying a used brake booster and changing that, thinking it was the cause. ( even though i probably needed a new one anyway ) the sound was still happening. so i ended up buying a used oem master cylinder and it noise stopped and everything has been fine since.
could have just been that part i got at the time or maybe even something else, not sure.
from my experience, something that is a pain to remove/change, its better to just get an oem part, whether you buy it used with low mileage or not. I would just change both the boost and cylinder at the same time.
good luck.

Deathrow23

iTrader: (8)

There are a few of them on ebay used oem that come with the master cylinder and booster for about $125 or <. not to sway your decision or anything, but thats what i would get. unless you want to buy brand new!

but then again, if you buy used, just get from a place that guarantees it to work or at least tested it first and can return/exchange it if it doesnt.

CreativeS

Thank you so much for detailed response. Feeling the best bet would be to get it done by my mechanic and first to change the master cylinder, and gp from there, dont wanna messup. Will share my experience

RandyIS250

Smart decision ! you're from Toronto Canada ?

CreativeS

Thank you! Yups, from Toronto!

See5

Had same problem. Check for seized rear calipers & bleed the brake fluid first. I wasted my money on a new master cylinder.

RandyIS250

i live in downtown maybe you saw me lol

CreativeS

Thanks a million! I show your text to my mechanic and it was the seized rear calipers and it was so bad that it tears off the break pads so replaced it. It is better now, will test it for few days. It might need to replace the Master Cylinder as well as I still feel it.

CreativeS

Show me the pic of your IS, there's very few on the road in toronto with good mods. Maybe I saw you?

Before IS I had Solara... coincident? lol

Aspect

For sure I had the same problem and it was fixed with a brand new set of brake pads and changing out seized rear calipers.

CreativeS

The problem remain same. I changed the master cylinder and bleed 2 times after that but no change.....

waste of time and money.... so frustrated now...

What else could it be? anyone...?

CreativeS

The problem get worse and when the car sit overnight or idle for long time and when you push the brake it touch the carpet until 2nd or 3rd attempt and also while driving (you can imagine how scary it should be). My mechanic took second opinion from one of his more experienced friend and found out that this part from Centric is the culprit he changed it with the oem.

In short, stay away from Centric Master Cylinder.