RR-Racing USRS or FIGS LCA bushing
#76
Please update me when you do! I'll have to put a rear camber kit on eventually when I lower the car, so if there is a benefit to doing it prematurely while stock I'm certainly interested.
#77
I'll have to look at the sheets again but i had it looked at and it was around -2.2 or something like that, and when i took the stock wheels off there was major camber wear. If you can toss them on now, i would suggest so. It will also only get harder the longer you wait (rust and seizing on). Dial in the camber and get no wear, i was looking to put it at -1.5 to minimize wear but keep the sporty aspect. There is no downside to putting them on, other than the cost if you have other better things to spend the money on.
#78
I'll have to look at the sheets again but i had it looked at and it was around -2.2 or something like that, and when i took the stock wheels off there was major camber wear. If you can toss them on now, i would suggest so. It will also only get harder the longer you wait (rust and seizing on). Dial in the camber and get no wear, i was looking to put it at -1.5 to minimize wear but keep the sporty aspect. There is no downside to putting them on, other than the cost if you have other better things to spend the money on.
#79
#80
#81
I am not a mechanic, but optimal camber is dependent on use. higher camber increases wear but allows for better cornering, i only chose -1.5 as kind of a compromise of both. Spacers would only cause pre-mature wear on the wheel bearing and stress on studs, try getting the right offset wheels. But to answer your question i believe -1.5 to be optimal (with or without spacers), and well within specs too (-0.8 to -2.3 don't quote me, but its around there haha).
#82
I am not a mechanic, but optimal camber is dependent on use. higher camber increases wear but allows for better cornering, i only chose -1.5 as kind of a compromise of both. Spacers would only cause pre-mature wear on the wheel bearing and stress on studs, try getting the right offset wheels. But to answer your question i believe -1.5 to be optimal (with or without spacers), and well within specs too (-0.8 to -2.3 don't quote me, but its around there haha).
That would be -.08 being zero to no wear and -2.3 being excessive wear and looking like a clown but exceptional cornering?
#83
Something like that, but that's manufacturer specs. I don't think -2.3 has a major look to it, noticeable but not enough to call it clown like lol.
#84
Do you think going conservative for the sake of tire wear is worth the cornering loss if you run a winter and summer set up?
#85
I don't particularly take corners fast so tire wear was more of a concern. Unless you track the car i don't think you'll see the benefits... but then again i've never tracked a car in my life so you can take my opinion as you see fit. haha
#86
I really don't plan on tracking my car either but I've been known to do some spirited driving here and there. I wonder how noticeable the difference in cornering is.
#87
The factory camber settings are set at around -1.0 front and -1.5 in the rear. This is mainly due to create understeering for safety and obviously less oversteering while turning. Although this setting “maybe” more stable at higher speed turns, but it may not be the fastest, more controllable, or even more fun to drive. Not to mention, these cars dont bave torque create much of oversteer.
Typically, track oriented cars have higher negative front camber angle than the rear, again to create neutral to oversteering response. And many street/semi track oriented drivers set their camber at around -1.5 front and -1.0 rear for the optimal handling and tire saving.
There are several ways to correcting the understeering. Change the camber setting (probably the easiest, safest, and less intrusive in NVH), change the rear sway bar to a thicker one (creates more harshness), change out the springs or shocks (most expensive way to do so) or change the tires size and offset of the wheels (again expensive, it is very hard to find right square setup tires for these cars). And for track cars, a camber adjustment is a must.
So now, you have to ask yourself are you a serious driver enough to notice the difference and benefit from these upgrades? Most are not. And this is not a serious track car enough for me to get serious on the supension. However, camber arms are great for saving tires especially if you have lowered vehicle. So i would just wait until you lower your car and have it aligned at all same time. Also lowering camber could cause your to rub especially with spacers or wider wheels. That is something you would need to set at the aligment shop after all components are installed on your car.
I hope this explain all your question.
Last edited by jkonquer; 12-13-17 at 01:07 PM.
#88
Thank you very much! So you're saying a -1.5 and -1.0 would be the optimal camber setting to bring better handling while still saving the tires? It seems like the order of operations should be spacers first and then throw on the coils, rear camber kit, and get an alignment, correct?
#89
only problem is that it is hard to find Front camber kit on these cars. So from the factory setting you are at about -1.0. However if you lower it the camber should automatically set at around -1.5. then you can add the rear camber arms to make it into -1.5 F and -1.0 R. all depends on how low you go.
Coilover and camber arm should be thrown in together.
Coilover and camber arm should be thrown in together.
#90
only problem is that it is hard to find Front camber kit on these cars. So from the factory setting you are at about -1.0. However if you lower it the camber should automatically set at around -1.5. then you can add the rear camber arms to make it into -1.5 F and -1.0 R. all depends on how low you go.
Coilover and camber arm should be thrown in together.
Coilover and camber arm should be thrown in together.