It's easier to just purchase the ball joint assembly though, seeing there are TWO lower ball joints. Plus the cost is honestly not the hassle of a DIY in my mind :

https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/18865-05219829.html?utm_content=DN&utm_term=2006-2012+Lexus+IS250+Ball+Joint+Beck+Arnley+Front+Lower+Right+06-12+Lexus+Ball+Joint+2009+2007&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=Cj0KCQjwm9vPBRCQARIsABAIQYcMSnawCsh_2TKgLL1hoKX2RhmoWs4VE5oXsIgGsezR7WluBYrYb4kaArD4EALw_wcB&ad=47433948492

 

On my quest to solve my own creaking/poping noises. I discovered that the driver side needed a refresh. I replaced the FUCA, LWRBJ, AND OUTER TIE ROD. The upper ball joint was shot, poping and clunking while braking. Along with the outer tie rod too the boot was shot. Causing all the grease to weep out. The lower ball joint I replaced it aswell. Even though it was still ok.

​​​​​​After all this the creaking/popping was still there. Especially at low turning sleeds. So I decided to check my LCA USRS bushing. While removing the bushings I could tell it needed grease in the Lower control arm screw. Which the bushing slides over. So I greased everything back up very thoroughly. No more creaking/popping. So relieved that it doesn't sound like an old mattress anymore. LOL

The places you want to grease up is the main bolt. Which the bushing slides over. Also inside the bushing sleeve as much as possible. The last thing before tightening the rear main 22 mm nut. I stuffed grease around the thread into the sleeve. You'll see that there is a small gap around the thread bolt. Just stuff some grease around that area too. Lastly I also added grease to the partially thread bolt that goes into the body the big 22mm long bolt. Lube all the unthreaded shaft part.

 

What a coincidence that this post pops up as I was fighting to find out what's wrong with my car lol. I liberally greased both sides but for me the driver front was giving me a ton of popping still, are you using their supplied grease or something else? I didn't think about greasing the bolt shafts(unthreaded). I'll try that next time. I even went back and did that "suspension bushing reset" loaded suspension torquing thing that I usually don't do but to no avail as well.

 

Yeah it seems the supplied grease is not enough. I used some red grease called JT6. Make sure you apply it very well. Lube the main lower control arm bushing bolt fully. Not the threaded part of course. Add some to the sleeve in the bushing too. I also added grease to where the bushing rest. On the lower control arm facing the front of the car. Basically just go all out. Once use slide the bushing back in place wipe the excess grease off the threads.then suff grease inside the gap before putting the rear 22mm nut on.



I did this on ramps. What I found out is when assembling back together I have to shift the bushing way over, because the arm moves a little. When tightening the bushing back to the subframe. Make sure you line up the small screw up first. I do this by prying a flat head screw driver inside the larger bolt 22m hole. I pry as much as I can to center the smaller hole tightening it down so it doesn't move. This should keep the bushing well centered to the bolt holes. Then come back and hand tighten the big bolt to the body. At this point it should be centered, and just hand screw it in. Lol sorry for bad grammar. I left apple for a Samsung, and the T9 input is horrible on this thing LOL

​​​​​​Don't forget to tighten the preload bolts after wards. Snug them up, and just give it a 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The 17mm bolt is what hits the unthreaded 22mm bolt so grease that as well.