Keywords for SEO: Squeaking, creaking, squealing, bushing, caster arm, tension rod, control arm, strut, suspension

Members of ClubLexus, I have been dealing with squeaking and squealing suspension ever since I replaced my tension rods aka caster arms aka front LCA #2.

So, I ordered all MOOG parts from Rockauto as I usually do.However, this time I neglected to a inspection upon arrival and BOOM there I am with my suspension off and they sent me one wrong inner tie rod and a poor excuse for a right control arm. Seriously bad chinese crap stuffed in a MOOG box. I mean the holes for the caster arms were off by ~0.25in center to center.

Oh yeah, and my M14 bolts SEIZED in my caster arms. The result? Making emergency calls to every parts shop within 20miles trying to find two caster arms.

I should clarify, I bought poly bushings vvv and was going to press them in my existing caster arms but the threads were absolutely seized. I mean seriously, no amount of heat would move these things.

Anyways, I'm getting off topic. I bolted everything together and neglected to torque everything to spec while the car was under load. About 1 day later, EAR PIERCING SQUEAKING from both corners. Unbearable.

I get under there, loosen up every bolt I touched previously(Caster arms M14 bolts, Caster arm stud nut, control arm bolts, sway bar links, strut bolt) and that fixed it for another day then BOOM its back and WAY WORSE. I never knew car parts could squeak so much. Regardless, a week later I pull it all apart and identify the strut bushings as the culprits. I could NOT get a PN# for those bushings but I needed something soon so I decided to take some time after work Friday can get fancy on the lathe.



Honestly, it look forever to turn down the aluminum rod I was working with but it was a real nice fit in the eyelet. Easy fix right? NOOOOOOO the squeaking RETURNS

This is where I need a second opinion.
Squeaking occurs when:
-going over bumps --> struts compress (and rotate slightly?), control arm at adjustment bolt rotates, caster arm mount moves in an arc path
-steering--> lets say its at a stop:
--> so for the steering I know the tie rod pushes the knuckle which rotates the strut from the bolt in the bracket, but how does the control arm move? just vertically?

The strut/spring assembly I'm not so concerned about, I have Megan Racing EZ streets being shipped as I write this. But I know that once I put those in, I'll still hear squeaking from the control arms. Whats the proper preload procedure? Can I lubricate these things? I know I shouldn't need to but I'm losing my mind here. I've never worked on a car so prone to squeaking.

 

Can you take a video? That would help to diagnose the issue

 

Muffinizer - I probably should have done that just to show how awful it really was.

I narrowed my acceptable causes of this squeaking mischief down to control arms and the upper strut bearings. Ordered a kit from Prothane to replace all the suspension bushings on the front end with their poly inserts.

Getting out the old ones was a bit more extensive than I hoped for.



As you can see, the air hammer was a miracle in removing those bushing sleeves. Started with a chisel end to separate the sleeve face from the arm. Then moved to the roll pin to bend it inwards enough that I'd be able to press out the bushing. Using the hydraulic press I pressed out the center leaving only the sleeve left.


Husky air hammer, bushing sleeve, and poly bushing

It was actually kind of fun just because normally I'd flame out the bushing then hammer the crap out of it on a block of wood to pop out the inside BUT I had a friend with a hydraulic press handy. Once the inside is pressed out I tool a reciprocating saw and a good blade(thats key) to slice down the middle of the sleeve. The rest is all air hammer work to get it out.



This one was really fun. When I replaced my caster arms (Front LCA#2) before these bolts seized and wouldn't move out no matter what I tried. Regardless, I had to shear off these bad boys with the death-wheel.



Had to press in the poly bushings with nickel lube on the inside. Thankfully, I only had to use a vice to press in the sleeve in the two bushings. The lube you see on the sleeve came in the kit. Really sticky and viscous I'd love to know its composition or what its normally used for.



A religious amount of lube to make sure this will never make noise again.(no, I don't think it will either"

Popped 'em in the other arm and threw everything back together. Be sure to mark those caster bolts

It should be noted that I heard a squeak coming from the sway bar bushings on reassembly. Greased them up for the time being and will have new ones on order for when my suspensions comes in.

For some reason I wasn't told when ordering my coilovers that the box wouldn't arrive for three weeks because it has to be shipped straight from the factory in Japan

 

It's about time I updated this thread. After some small diagnosing in a parking garage, to really echo my squeaking, I narrowed down the cause of this wretched noise to the steering rack.



Ordered from DetroitAxle off Ebay. Not a huge fan of buying parts off Ebay nor a big fan of Detroit axle, but they seemed legit. Looked like a good piece. Wasn't too difficult to get in either, and I do recommend having some extra hands to get those banjo fittings in straight. I made the mistake of not ordering crush washers and threw the old ones back in. It's leaking more than I'd like out the high pressure side. Does anyone know what size these crush washers are? I have't returned my core yet so I can measure an estimate off of there.






Megan Racing EZ street II's in the front and rear. Cranked the springs up and turned the dampening to 3 clicks back from the hardest setting and honestly it's pretty responsive. Really minimizes body roll. I'll have to see how it improves once I get an actual alignment



It's a clean car for the most part, but the back has seen better days. Snapped off both sway bar mount bolts without even really trying. I'll fix that later? maybe.



The hill makes her sit a little low from this angle. I've added a bit more gap between the wheels and fender since this. Those are Sport Edition ST3's with new rubber that I picked up for $500. I think people usually put them on LS430's. Theres a thread for gs2's mentioning that you can't fit 18's with a 45 wall and et42 and they're incorrect. These fit just fine even with a little drop.