Jeff Lange

iTrader: (1)

All 2IS (including IS F), 3IS, 4GS, and RC all use the same master cylinder size with all available brake options (7/8") with the exception of the GS F and RC F (15/16").

Jeff

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

What are these units you speak of??? 8ths, 16ths???

Jeff Lange

iTrader: (1)

My apologies, haha.

Just for you:

7/8" = 0.875 in = 22.225 mm = 0.00441919192 rods
15/16" = 0.9375 in = 23.8125 mm = 1.28577214×10^-5 nautical miles

Jeff

xxbowiexx

Here it is, the almost final product. I used 20mm spacer but couldn’t get enough clearance despite -3 camber. Plan to try 15mm spacers, perhaps shaving a bit off the caliper while being extra careful not to penetrate into the core. It’s still a working progress but I’m getting there

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^Nice progress!

Can you tell us the reason you need to run those spacers? Is it due to your wheels setup or other factors? Some, myself included, don't like running spacers over 10mm on stock studs.

xxbowiexx

I really don't want to run spacer but unfortunately, it didn't clear the barrel of my wheel, even though I have O disk. Now i'm running into even more clearance issue with the 20mm spacer. I will likely have to create a more negative camber, maybe shave down on the edge of the caliper and try 15mm spacer. Any suggestion is appreciated

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Well, if you're caliper is touching the wheel spokes, additional camber won't affect that. Here's your options :

1) on factory studs, run a large enough spacer to clear the caliper/spokes
2) install ARP lug studs and run any spacer safely
3) grind away on the caliper in hopes you don't hit a fluid passage
4) use a different set of wheels that will clear the caliper

Wish you luck!

xxbowiexx

always appreciate your insight. The caliper hits the inner barrel and not the wheel spoke. I think i'm going to grind the caliper just a bit but avoid going deep enough to affect the integrity of the fluid reservoir. ARP lug studs is a good idea. I'll keep you guys posted. It's a slow project since i have my hands full, but it's fun.

xxbowiexx

I have made a write up to share with you guys, check it out

https://teamrpmblog.wordpress.com/20...lipers-rotors/

laobo979

iTrader: (5)

You running 18s? I pretty sure 19s should clear since the gs350 have 19s on them. I have seen one other person run these but with factory 2015 is250 f sport with oem rims. But the guy never replied if he shave the caliper or not. Also the guy was from Japan.

Jeff Lange

iTrader: (1)

Factory 18" wheels should clear these brakes without issue. Aftermarket wheels may have issues unless they are 19's (for 2- or 3-piece wheels) or have spoke designs with decent caliper clearance (for 18's or larger).

Another item that should be mentioned is that the aluminum hats on the 2-piece rotors are not designed to accept steel wheels. This isn't normally an issue, but can come up when needing to use your spare tire. The IS spare will not clear these brakes and is a steel wheel. If using these brake rotors, you should use an appropriate aluminum spare wheel. 42611-30F41 is the correct wheel to use with these brakes with a T145/70D18 tire.

For backing plates, 47781-53050 and 47782-53050 are the correct backing plates when using these brakes on a RWD 2IS.

Jeff

xxbowiexx

i admire your insight. It is true that the spare wheel will not clear this brake. I just have to make sure my AAA is readily available

xxbowiexx

This is the caliper with 15mm spacer. Phew, it cleared. Now I just have to work on the camber a bit more

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

I read through the write-up; no mention of having to use a different brake dust shield. So did you have to remove your dust shield completely to make this mod work?

xxbowiexx

i trimmed it to accommodate the caliper, then bend it back to avoid it from hitting the rotor. The GS350 dust shield have different mounting point so i can't use it. one option is to switch it out with the ISF dust shield. however, not sure if ISF rotor is 13" or 14".