spen151

If you are going to be doing your own rear wheel bearings PLEASE READ THIS, for some reason along the way the part numbers were merged for the TWO DIFFERENT seals you need for the rear wheel hub. They are not interchangeable and the only way to get the right one is to know this info and sometimes that isn’t even enough because I received several of the wrong parts in the right box. Below are the correct part numbers you will need. I took me 4 orders and two weeks to get two of the inner seals and even then, they were of two different brands which should not make a difference, but it irks me. Save yourself the trouble and just get the NSK kit with both seal sizes (4 in total)

9031157001 inner part number (larger one at 3.554” Diameter) (alternative part number 1935)

9031157002 outer part number (smaller at 3.193” Diameter) (alternative part number 1928)

Here is some extra info that will be very useful, YOU DO NOT NEED TO DESTROY THE ABS SENSOR. You can unplug it in the trunk easily and push the boot through to the wheel well. The dust shield is the “difficult” part you just have to punch seal and shield out in one go the point directly opposite of the sensor (say the sensor is 12 on a clock punch at the 6 position from the outside also you have to remove the ball Bering’s for this to have a good angle but you are replacing it anyways so just rip it out) this will allow it to clear the sensor and not break the tip off and putting it back in you just do the reverse and put the hole over the sensor first and pound it in with wood or something.

RXRodger

iTrader: (2)

I have done this job many times, we have a complete set of 4 spare spindles/hubs for the race car. Also, I just put a rear wheel bearing in my white auto SC yesterday. I always have seals/bearings for when we swap spindles and go through the ones removed to have good spares. I always order Timken 1928 and 1935 seals for the inner and outer and have never had an issue, usually order from Rock Auto or Amazon. The rear bearing is a Timken 510017, also from Rock Auto or Amazon depending on which is less expensive at the time. All of this is documented pretty well on a diy thread somewhere on here for the front and the rear. It is documented with pictures how to press the outer race out of the hub, pull the inner races off the hub, how to pack, how to reassemble, etc.

I am confused on why you make the comment on the ABS sensor. It is simply removed from the spindle by removing the 6mm bolt (10mm head), twisting it out of the spindle, and laying it aside until you get the spindle rebuilt with the new bearing and seals and mounted back to the control arms. You must be missing something, that's like the easiest part of the job.

One of the most important parts of this job is to retorque the axle nut to at least the required torque value which I think is about 250 ft-lb. You must get this tight to the proper torque to prevent movement of the bearing inner races on the hub surface. Since the hub is at least $250 for OEM quality, it's not something you want to have to replace later, in addition to the work it takes to get the assembly apart.

spen151

The reason for the ABS info is most if not all tutorials said the abs needed to be removed, and on these older cars that is all but impossible to do that without damaging it. just trying to save people $250 if not $500 if they break both.

RXRodger

iTrader: (2)

You have to remove it. I still don’t understand what you are trying to say. You remove one bolt, you twist the sensor out of the spindle, you tie it up out of the way, reinstall when you have rebuilt the wheel bearing. I have done this like 25 times.

spen151

Getting the bolt out isn't not an issue, I am not sure if you live in the rust belt or not but both of my sensor were rusted in tight and were not budging.