BC Racing Coilover issue?
10-02-13, 09:52 AM
#1
BC Racing Coilover issue?
I have BCR's installed.
I feel perhaps there's something wrong with my front driver side shocks. It's really rough when I go over sudden bumps or cat eyes. I don't have a bumpy ride or feel anything odd when going over humps and dips is okay, only when I hit little pot holes or go over cat eyes.. there's a slam which feels like perhaps the coil os topping out or something.
It also makes a popping noise when I am driving out of my drive way sloping downwards and turning right!
Could it be a blown shock? Or a busted bump stop?
Will take the car to the dealer and have it checked, but need a heads up as to what it could be.
And if it is, can I get parts for the BCR coil over??
I feel perhaps there's something wrong with my front driver side shocks. It's really rough when I go over sudden bumps or cat eyes. I don't have a bumpy ride or feel anything odd when going over humps and dips is okay, only when I hit little pot holes or go over cat eyes.. there's a slam which feels like perhaps the coil os topping out or something.
It also makes a popping noise when I am driving out of my drive way sloping downwards and turning right!
Could it be a blown shock? Or a busted bump stop?
Will take the car to the dealer and have it checked, but need a heads up as to what it could be.
And if it is, can I get parts for the BCR coil over??
10-02-13, 10:04 PM
#6
I can tell you know designo, something's wrong outside of you bottoming out. Unless your control arm on your GS460 is different than my 430.
I sit lower than that and ride over bumps EASILY. My tires tuck a little bit under the wheel well and it drives over bumps knicks cateyes, whatever you want to call the road imperfections (outside of giant potholes that could swallow a whole wheel.... yes, we have that in FL) and no giant THUMP/bottoming out.
I am however, on Air susp, meaning I have bags rather than springs. Still I see no problem outside of your height brother....
I sit lower than that and ride over bumps EASILY. My tires tuck a little bit under the wheel well and it drives over bumps knicks cateyes, whatever you want to call the road imperfections (outside of giant potholes that could swallow a whole wheel.... yes, we have that in FL) and no giant THUMP/bottoming out.
I am however, on Air susp, meaning I have bags rather than springs. Still I see no problem outside of your height brother....
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10-16-13, 02:11 PM
#10
The proper way to set preload on a coilover-
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring(top) and spring lock ring(bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 3mm gap between the two rings, you have 3mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
You also want to check and make sure the top 17mm center nut is tight, it's best to check it with an impact gun if you have access to one, a quick hit is all it should need. Or use an allen key to hold the shaft in place and tighten with an open socket or wrench, you don't want the shaft to spin while you are tightening it. A few other areas to check are the lower mounting bolts, the 4 allen bolts that adjust camber, and the 4 lock bolts underneath the pillowball bearing, make sure all of these are tight.
Sometimes noise can come from somehwere else, endlinks, swaybars, and chassis contact can all be problems. Make sure now that the car is lowered and stiffer that you don't have exhaust contact anywhere. These are all common noise issues.
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring(top) and spring lock ring(bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 3mm gap between the two rings, you have 3mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
You also want to check and make sure the top 17mm center nut is tight, it's best to check it with an impact gun if you have access to one, a quick hit is all it should need. Or use an allen key to hold the shaft in place and tighten with an open socket or wrench, you don't want the shaft to spin while you are tightening it. A few other areas to check are the lower mounting bolts, the 4 allen bolts that adjust camber, and the 4 lock bolts underneath the pillowball bearing, make sure all of these are tight.
Sometimes noise can come from somehwere else, endlinks, swaybars, and chassis contact can all be problems. Make sure now that the car is lowered and stiffer that you don't have exhaust contact anywhere. These are all common noise issues.
10-17-13, 11:02 AM
#12
executive matchup
easy to make simple mistakes, don't worry about it. double check your rims and make sure you haven't bent or damaged them somehow. also check your tires and make sure they are still OK.
10-17-13, 11:13 AM
#13
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