GS450H rated springs NF210 part#GWS191NK Installed
#31
I installed the wheels then lowered it and it rode better than stock.
After I aligned it, that's then it became ROUGH as fk.
I have to bring it back to the alignment shop Monday to get them to straighten the steering wheel.
Actually, they aligned the front, then told me the factory rear has no adjustment and that the rear camber and toe was off and hat I needed a camber kit. So I drove it like that for about a week.
I got my camber kit in and they installed it and aligned the rear and now my front is off (really it's the rear that's causing the front to compensate for the angle of the rear)
The techs did say that the rear was a MAJOR SOB to align due to the amount of combined adjustment combinations.
So because the front was straight while running factory rear camber components, this leads me to believe when they installed the rear camber components they got the toe straight and the camber straight but I believe the toe on both rear wheels are equally aimed a little left which causes the steering wheel to point left to keep the car going straight. Rear wheel drive, rear wheels slightly angled left, pushing the car, the front wheels will automatically face a tad bit left to align themselves with the rear to keep the car straight.
After I aligned it, that's then it became ROUGH as fk.
I have to bring it back to the alignment shop Monday to get them to straighten the steering wheel.
Actually, they aligned the front, then told me the factory rear has no adjustment and that the rear camber and toe was off and hat I needed a camber kit. So I drove it like that for about a week.
I got my camber kit in and they installed it and aligned the rear and now my front is off (really it's the rear that's causing the front to compensate for the angle of the rear)
The techs did say that the rear was a MAJOR SOB to align due to the amount of combined adjustment combinations.
So because the front was straight while running factory rear camber components, this leads me to believe when they installed the rear camber components they got the toe straight and the camber straight but I believe the toe on both rear wheels are equally aimed a little left which causes the steering wheel to point left to keep the car going straight. Rear wheel drive, rear wheels slightly angled left, pushing the car, the front wheels will automatically face a tad bit left to align themselves with the rear to keep the car straight.
Last edited by 08Lex450h; 06-10-16 at 11:21 PM. Reason: Spelling error
The following users liked this post:
angelob (09-01-17)
#35
Well the car has settled perfectly. I've put about 5k miles on it since lowering and aligning it.
The alignment is SPOT ON! The guys that did it were old school and had NO electronics, they used only old style measuring tools so I was a bit skeptical and took it to Toyota. When you pull up in the service lane they attach the laser markers for the Hunter alignment machine that tells the specs. (Beware, the guys that hang these alignment markers ARE NOT mechanics and half the time they hang them incorrectly and tell you that you need an alignment as well as whatever service you originally came for [upsale])...mine was perfect.
The rear DOES hit the quarter panels now when I hit a hard dip. I've yet to roll the fenders or quarters at this point in time. But I have the roller to do it. Just been handling my sound system first.
I've also spoken to Steve Meade with the black ISF and it has been confirmed, his quarter panels and fenders rolled perfectly and did NOT dimple, wrinkle, kink, or bend in any deformation as someone has told me on this forum.
Now I'm installing 2 12" JL W1 in fiberglass custom boxes with a JL 500/1v2. Almost done with the boxes.
Pix to come.
The alignment is SPOT ON! The guys that did it were old school and had NO electronics, they used only old style measuring tools so I was a bit skeptical and took it to Toyota. When you pull up in the service lane they attach the laser markers for the Hunter alignment machine that tells the specs. (Beware, the guys that hang these alignment markers ARE NOT mechanics and half the time they hang them incorrectly and tell you that you need an alignment as well as whatever service you originally came for [upsale])...mine was perfect.
The rear DOES hit the quarter panels now when I hit a hard dip. I've yet to roll the fenders or quarters at this point in time. But I have the roller to do it. Just been handling my sound system first.
I've also spoken to Steve Meade with the black ISF and it has been confirmed, his quarter panels and fenders rolled perfectly and did NOT dimple, wrinkle, kink, or bend in any deformation as someone has told me on this forum.
Now I'm installing 2 12" JL W1 in fiberglass custom boxes with a JL 500/1v2. Almost done with the boxes.
Pix to come.
Last edited by 08Lex450h; 07-08-16 at 07:26 PM.
#36
Thank you.
What changes would be don't to the front?
None thus far.
Just lowered, wheels & tires, alignment.
Front doesn't rub the fenders. And I'm convinced had I went with 10" rather than 10.5" rear they wouldn't have rubbed either. Maybe just a touch, but after I roll the qtrs I don't think they would have rubbed with 10" rear wheels.
I know they are still going to run after I roll the qtrs but I still need to get that sharp edge under control and try to minimize the rubbing as much as possible.
What changes would be don't to the front?
None thus far.
Just lowered, wheels & tires, alignment.
Front doesn't rub the fenders. And I'm convinced had I went with 10" rather than 10.5" rear they wouldn't have rubbed either. Maybe just a touch, but after I roll the qtrs I don't think they would have rubbed with 10" rear wheels.
I know they are still going to run after I roll the qtrs but I still need to get that sharp edge under control and try to minimize the rubbing as much as possible.
#38
I haven't done much research on coil-over replacements. Just make sure you get them custom sprung to accommodate the extra weight. I believe most are going with BC. I would look at a custom KW or HKS set. (probably super pricey and not worth it) Let us know what you find!
#39
At 160k. I just replaced all 4 struts with BC racing coilovers and am very pleased so far. Higwer quality components, can adjust ride height 5 inches higher than stock or 5 inches lower , in addition 30 way adjustable to make ride softer than stock or harder. than stock.
There is more noise int he cabin of the car now because there are no sprig insulators,and the strut tower mounts are stiffer. but I suppose one could move over the factory top and bottom spring isolators.
The following users liked this post:
angelob (09-01-17)
#41
Just want some clarification here, is this the NF210 GW191NK Tanabe springs, or the DF210s? I really like the drop here.. I'm assuming it's settled even more? Would love to see some more pics PGS3, I've got the same stock paint color+wheels.. I get my NF210s in the mail today, installed tomorrow
Last edited by AlexDev; 07-22-19 at 08:17 AM.
#42
UPDATE: Still on the same springs and oem shocks. Still no issues. This has proven to a reliable alternative to stock suspension.
Last edited by DaveGS4; 03-30-20 at 08:49 AM. Reason: Removed quoted post
#43
Hi all.
I ordered the NF210 springs for my GS450h and I am exiting to install these ones on the car.
However, I read a couple of threads about replacing springs and the front ones will be easy to do. But I cannot find something about how to get the rear coils out to replace the springs. Specially with the battery at the back, how to lift the car at the back, what should you avoid, etc.
Is there a DIY replacement guide for the springs/coils on a GS450h (3rd Gen)?
thanks
I ordered the NF210 springs for my GS450h and I am exiting to install these ones on the car.
However, I read a couple of threads about replacing springs and the front ones will be easy to do. But I cannot find something about how to get the rear coils out to replace the springs. Specially with the battery at the back, how to lift the car at the back, what should you avoid, etc.
Is there a DIY replacement guide for the springs/coils on a GS450h (3rd Gen)?
thanks
#44
Hi all.
I ordered the NF210 springs for my GS450h and I am exiting to install these ones on the car.
However, I read a couple of threads about replacing springs and the front ones will be easy to do. But I cannot find something about how to get the rear coils out to replace the springs. Specially with the battery at the back, how to lift the car at the back, what should you avoid, etc.
Is there a DIY replacement guide for the springs/coils on a GS450h (3rd Gen)?
thanks
I ordered the NF210 springs for my GS450h and I am exiting to install these ones on the car.
However, I read a couple of threads about replacing springs and the front ones will be easy to do. But I cannot find something about how to get the rear coils out to replace the springs. Specially with the battery at the back, how to lift the car at the back, what should you avoid, etc.
Is there a DIY replacement guide for the springs/coils on a GS450h (3rd Gen)?
thanks
#45
Because the hybrid battery is located behind the back seat and essentially half of the trunk, the suspension layout is the same with all other third gen gs models. From what I saw it is a matter of removing trunk lining to get access to the top of the shock tower. From there it should be like any other car. Nothing should be particularly special about the suspension layout. My shop was able to replace them with no issues.
I’ll give feedback when it’s done.