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Today I installed the OEM running boards (PT938-48240). I got an online deal for <$500 shipped, which is <$150 more than some of the aftermarket ones I've seen installs for.
Now, the reasons I decided to go OEM, despite the higher prices are:
The install videos of the aftermarket ones looked, pretty janky. There were multiple articulating pieces that stuck down awkwardly. Frankly, i was worried some errant road debris might rip something off and cause damage to the floor.
I'm unsure of the quality of the aftermarket ones. I've bought plenty of chinesium parts that rust/corrode/disform and I didnt really want that on a load-bearing part.
The install was VERY straight forward. I've attached the installation instructions that indicate the same parts for the Grand Highlander (no surprise). I'll add that the whole thing took me about an hour, and I didn't jack the car at all. Basically you trim some underbody shielding (~5 min/side) Then you unplug 8 threaded holes on the undercarriage that need to be un-plugged (~5 min/side or less!). Then you hand-tighten bolts and torque each bolt down to spec. This is the most time consuming part for me, mostly due to limited space since i didnt jack. But its really quite easy.
ADDITIONAL NOTE:
If you plan on installing factory mudflaps (probably aftermarket ones too), this is an EXCELLENT time to do so. One of the front mudflap mounting points will be blocked by the running board. Installation will require you to loosen and then re-tighten the running board to install. Save yourself some time and do it now!
I guess pics are always appreciated. I'm sorry I forgot to take pics of the running boards OFF the car, but here are some before & after pics:
Before, profile.
Running Board Profile picture Door closed, you can see how much they stick out (not much) Door open to see running board width and appearance. Pardon the toddler mess.
But I hate to admit it but I was so surprised at the amount of mud, road dirt, dirty slush, frozen stuff and everything else that stuck to the bottom of the doors that by design is right in your face every time you open one, that this was the only solution to get rid of it ...and it worked.
Even when the dealer washed it after service you would open the door and there would be stuff packed on them. I told them they should just wipe the drivers side off and you would feel like you got the intended good will benefit of the free Lexus wash instead of seeing the mess. I looked at other aftermarket ones and the OEM were the only ones that sealed off the bottom of the rocker panels and the road.
Personally I like the look...tucked in nicely and wide when you open the door. Also good for reaching on top of the roof. The other unintended bonus is that they are somewhat functional as you can use them a bit to lift some of your weight off of the seat side bolsters when getting in and out instead of sliding/dragging across them all the time.
Note Pics....after a month of snow, slush and now spring runoff mud on roads...still clean!!
Today I installed the OEM running boards (PT938-48240). I got an online deal for <$500 shipped, which is <$150 more than some of the aftermarket ones I've seen installs for.
Now, the reasons I decided to go OEM, despite the higher prices are:
The install videos of the aftermarket ones looked, pretty janky. There were multiple articulating pieces that stuck down awkwardly. Frankly, i was worried some errant road debris might rip something off and cause damage to the floor.
I'm unsure of the quality of the aftermarket ones. I've bought plenty of chinesium parts that rust/corrode/disform and I didnt really want that on a load-bearing part.
The install was VERY straight forward. I've attached the installation instructions that indicate the same parts for the Grand Highlander (no surprise). I'll add that the whole thing took me about an hour, and I didn't jack the car at all. Basically you trim some underbody shielding (~5 min/side) Then you unplug 8 threaded holes on the undercarriage that need to be un-plugged (~5 min/side or less!). Then you hand-tighten bolts and torque each bolt down to spec. This is the most time consuming part for me, mostly due to limited space since i didnt jack. But its really quite easy.
May I ask what site did you get the running board from for less than $500 shipped? Most of the sites I checked are charging too much for shipping.
Thank you for the link. I was only able to get 20% discount for the running board. The maximum shipping discount is $200 but the actual shipping price is $439.90. The total for the running board including shipping is $797.65. I'm using Toyota of Decatur dealership.
Thank you for the link. I was only able to get 20% discount for the running board. The maximum shipping discount is $200 but the actual shipping price is $439.90. The total for the running board including shipping is $797.65. I'm using Toyota of Decatur dealership.
I was just checking to get the total price with all the discounts. There's one Toyota dealership around my area that has it and they are charging $690 for it.
I just added a note to the top post about mudflaps: The running boards block one of the front mounting points, which requires some extra work. See the last few pics here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/tx-...l#post11717388
Today I installed the OEM running boards (PT938-48240). I got an online deal for <$500 shipped, which is <$150 more than some of the aftermarket ones I've seen installs for.
Now, the reasons I decided to go OEM, despite the higher prices are:
The install videos of the aftermarket ones looked, pretty janky. There were multiple articulating pieces that stuck down awkwardly. Frankly, i was worried some errant road debris might rip something off and cause damage to the floor.
I'm unsure of the quality of the aftermarket ones. I've bought plenty of chinesium parts that rust/corrode/disform and I didnt really want that on a load-bearing part.
The install was VERY straight forward. I've attached the installation instructions that indicate the same parts for the Grand Highlander (no surprise). I'll add that the whole thing took me about an hour, and I didn't jack the car at all. Basically you trim some underbody shielding (~5 min/side) Then you unplug 8 threaded holes on the undercarriage that need to be un-plugged (~5 min/side or less!). Then you hand-tighten bolts and torque each bolt down to spec. This is the most time consuming part for me, mostly due to limited space since i didnt jack. But its really quite easy.
ADDITIONAL NOTE:
If you plan on installing factory mudflaps (probably aftermarket ones too), this is an EXCELLENT time to do so. One of the front mudflap mounting points will be blocked by the running board. Installation will require you to loosen and then re-tighten the running board to install. Save yourself some time and do it now!
Finally installed the running boards today. First thing I did after install was to get my wife and toddler to test it. I have to say that it was definitely worth the time and effort. For the wife, having the step reduces wear on the side bolstering of the F-Sport front seats by not having to scuff the sides everytime. For the toddler, she can finally get in on her own. This accessory is functional and it enhances the aesthetics of the car.
The running boards also reduce clearance on the sides of the car. My wishful thinking hope that it can stall catalytic converter thieves by 5 seconds. =p
03-29-24, 01:38 PM
OEM Running Boards - Easy DIY
