I'm a noob will these fit
06-13-05, 06:10 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by cyclemax
Is it rubbing on the top of the liner or the edge of the fender?
And Escobar, that setup sounds great, but like Neo said, I wouldn't recommend the rear spacer. Doesn't sound like you should need it.
And Escobar, that setup sounds great, but like Neo said, I wouldn't recommend the rear spacer. Doesn't sound like you should need it.
The guys at Axis told me that the rear wheel would not clear the caliper without the 5mm spacer. That is the reason I thought I needed it.
06-13-05, 09:10 AM
#17
Originally Posted by Escobar
The guys at Axis told me that the rear wheel would not clear the caliper without the 5mm spacer. That is the reason I thought I needed it.
Originally Posted by cyclemax
Is it rubbing on the top of the liner or the edge of the fender?
06-13-05, 11:23 AM
#18
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Is there any way that I can check other than with the manufactuer. I dont want the spacers if I dont need them. I would hate to not get them and need them later.
If I need the spacers will I need longer studs?
If I need the spacers will I need longer studs?
06-13-05, 01:28 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by cyclemax
I don't see how this is the same. I understand your approach (.25" additional outboard flange=6.35mm) so the tire bead will be at the same location with respect to the fender, but in his case, his tread shoulder is going to be 6mm closer. Think about it. Regardless of rim width, offset dictates the centerline of the tire tread, and where that tread sits in the fenderwell.
Tread shoulder location on an 8.5 ET30 is not the same as if it was on an 9.0 ET36, assuming the same tire.
This is not to say he can't run an 8.5 ET30. I don't really know, but I'd have to say no.
Tread shoulder location on an 8.5 ET30 is not the same as if it was on an 9.0 ET36, assuming the same tire.
This is not to say he can't run an 8.5 ET30. I don't really know, but I'd have to say no.
There are a number of different ways to calculate this, but the easiest way to think about it is this- For camparison's sake, let's use these:
Old wheel: 18x8.5 +30
New wheel: 18x9.0 +30
The new wheel is 1/2" (12.7mm) wider than the old. The offset is the same. This means that the 9" wheel sits 1/4" more inboard and 1/4" (6.35mm) more outboard than the old 8.5" wheel.
To adjust the "frontspacing" of the wheel (how it sits relative to the OUTSIDE of the fender- this is what people see when they say the wheel "sits flush"), you need to now move 9" wheel BACK INBOARD the 1/4" (6.35mm).
Thus, you INCREASE the offset by 6.35mm:
+30 offset + 6.35mm = +36.35mm offset.
Essentially, with 18x9.0 +36 you have added the full 1/2" increase in width to the INSIDE of the car.
The other calculation works out this way:
8.5" wide +30 wheel = 90mm frontspacing / 150mm backspacing
9.0" wide +36 wheel = 90mm frontspacing / 163mm backspacing
For your other mention, yes the same tire on a wider wheel will sit somewhat differently
in terms of how the sidewall is shaped, but going wider with the wheel can actually SOLVE fender clearance issues by stretching the tire somewhat. My front wheels are 20x9.5 with a 255/35-20 and there is NO RUBBING with this set-up!
Last edited by SoCalSC4; 06-13-05 at 01:32 PM.
06-13-05, 01:56 PM
#20
Originally Posted by Escobar
Is there any way that I can check other than with the manufactuer. I dont want the spacers if I dont need them. I would hate to not get them and need them later.
If I need the spacers will I need longer studs?
If I need the spacers will I need longer studs?
With 5mm spacers, you won't NEED longer studs but you should get them if possible. Good spacers like from H&R comes with longer studs.
06-13-05, 04:17 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by SoCalSC4
The other calculation works out this way:
8.5" wide +30 wheel = 90mm frontspacing / 150mm backspacing
9.0" wide +36 wheel = 90mm frontspacing / 163mm backspacing
For your other mention, yes the same tire on a wider wheel will sit somewhat differently
in terms of how the sidewall is shaped, but going wider with the wheel can actually SOLVE fender clearance issues by stretching the tire somewhat. My front wheels are 20x9.5 with a 255/35-20 and there is NO RUBBING with this set-up!
8.5" wide +30 wheel = 90mm frontspacing / 150mm backspacing
9.0" wide +36 wheel = 90mm frontspacing / 163mm backspacing
For your other mention, yes the same tire on a wider wheel will sit somewhat differently
in terms of how the sidewall is shaped, but going wider with the wheel can actually SOLVE fender clearance issues by stretching the tire somewhat. My front wheels are 20x9.5 with a 255/35-20 and there is NO RUBBING with this set-up!
06-13-05, 06:22 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by Neo
Maybeyou can try a different dealer for a second opinion. Make sure they are familiar with that exact rim and your car.
With 5mm spacers, you won't NEED longer studs but you should get them if possible. Good spacers like from H&R comes with longer studs.
With 5mm spacers, you won't NEED longer studs but you should get them if possible. Good spacers like from H&R comes with longer studs.
Thanks for the advice!
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