20x11 Rear Offset?
04-15-06, 02:09 PM
#31
ok, couple of things i think y ou should look out for -- tire size, offset, and also the widths. i will try to explain here why, it's long but worth it
1) you have to factor i nthe stretching of tires on the width of wheels you gettin. putting 275/30 on 9.5 is very different from putting the same tire on 10. on the 10 it will stretch more, making the sidewall at a larger angle, which in turn give you better clearance.
and this stretching will be different from tires to tires as well. get a tire from perelli it will be very different from the one from michelin, even if it says the exact same numbers
so let's say if you put 295/30 (if such a tire exist), since you are pushing the boundary to hard, you have to select tires very carefully so you get the max width but still with correct angle to clear the fender.
for example, on rmmgs'4 20x11 +47 with ps2 295/25/20, he has no problem clearance (after all the shaving). on my car with 10.5 +41 with 285/30/20, i have no problem at the top too. now if i put 295/25/20 on my 10.5? it will fit, but i am inclinded to think that i will rub at the top
2) you have to VERY careful when dealing with 20s, and if you are getting overspec tires. on rmmgs4's car, he has 295/25/20, which has almost identical overall diameter as stock wheels. his lowering is pretty much the same as my car, but he has ZERO rubbing
on my car, i have 285/30/20, so my overall diameter is 1" overspec, and given that i have the michelin a/s, it's a meaty tire too. after shaving all the fenders, i have NO problem clearing the top at all, it clears 100% perfect. however the problem was on the side, right at the front and back of the wheel well. the 1" overspec, obviously, is not just on the height but also 1" overspec horizontally. what it does is when you hit a dip or so and suspension compressed, it might rub the front and back of the fender, which was my case
so i had to take out a plastic piece on the back of the fender, and also shave the fender ALL the way around as much as i could. it was no fun. i made it to work, but i can tell you if i get more aggressive offset, which is possible to clear the top, i will rub even wose in the front and back of wheel well.
i hope you can understand the problem. it's a lot more complicated and precise than what you think (just the top clearance and width + offset). you need to think about tires, brand, model, size, clearance
1) you have to factor i nthe stretching of tires on the width of wheels you gettin. putting 275/30 on 9.5 is very different from putting the same tire on 10. on the 10 it will stretch more, making the sidewall at a larger angle, which in turn give you better clearance.
and this stretching will be different from tires to tires as well. get a tire from perelli it will be very different from the one from michelin, even if it says the exact same numbers
so let's say if you put 295/30 (if such a tire exist), since you are pushing the boundary to hard, you have to select tires very carefully so you get the max width but still with correct angle to clear the fender.
for example, on rmmgs'4 20x11 +47 with ps2 295/25/20, he has no problem clearance (after all the shaving). on my car with 10.5 +41 with 285/30/20, i have no problem at the top too. now if i put 295/25/20 on my 10.5? it will fit, but i am inclinded to think that i will rub at the top
2) you have to VERY careful when dealing with 20s, and if you are getting overspec tires. on rmmgs4's car, he has 295/25/20, which has almost identical overall diameter as stock wheels. his lowering is pretty much the same as my car, but he has ZERO rubbing
on my car, i have 285/30/20, so my overall diameter is 1" overspec, and given that i have the michelin a/s, it's a meaty tire too. after shaving all the fenders, i have NO problem clearing the top at all, it clears 100% perfect. however the problem was on the side, right at the front and back of the wheel well. the 1" overspec, obviously, is not just on the height but also 1" overspec horizontally. what it does is when you hit a dip or so and suspension compressed, it might rub the front and back of the fender, which was my case
so i had to take out a plastic piece on the back of the fender, and also shave the fender ALL the way around as much as i could. it was no fun. i made it to work, but i can tell you if i get more aggressive offset, which is possible to clear the top, i will rub even wose in the front and back of wheel well.
i hope you can understand the problem. it's a lot more complicated and precise than what you think (just the top clearance and width + offset). you need to think about tires, brand, model, size, clearance
04-15-06, 08:33 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by rominl
ok, couple of things i think y ou should look out for -- tire size, offset, and also the widths. i will try to explain here why, it's long but worth it
1) you have to factor i nthe stretching of tires on the width of wheels you gettin. putting 275/30 on 9.5 is very different from putting the same tire on 10. on the 10 it will stretch more, making the sidewall at a larger angle, which in turn give you better clearance.
and this stretching will be different from tires to tires as well. get a tire from perelli it will be very different from the one from michelin, even if it says the exact same numbers
so let's say if you put 295/30 (if such a tire exist), since you are pushing the boundary to hard, you have to select tires very carefully so you get the max width but still with correct angle to clear the fender.
for example, on rmmgs'4 20x11 +47 with ps2 295/25/20, he has no problem clearance (after all the shaving). on my car with 10.5 +41 with 285/30/20, i have no problem at the top too. now if i put 295/25/20 on my 10.5? it will fit, but i am inclinded to think that i will rub at the top
2) you have to VERY careful when dealing with 20s, and if you are getting overspec tires. on rmmgs4's car, he has 295/25/20, which has almost identical overall diameter as stock wheels. his lowering is pretty much the same as my car, but he has ZERO rubbing
on my car, i have 285/30/20, so my overall diameter is 1" overspec, and given that i have the michelin a/s, it's a meaty tire too. after shaving all the fenders, i have NO problem clearing the top at all, it clears 100% perfect. however the problem was on the side, right at the front and back of the wheel well. the 1" overspec, obviously, is not just on the height but also 1" overspec horizontally. what it does is when you hit a dip or so and suspension compressed, it might rub the front and back of the fender, which was my case
so i had to take out a plastic piece on the back of the fender, and also shave the fender ALL the way around as much as i could. it was no fun. i made it to work, but i can tell you if i get more aggressive offset, which is possible to clear the top, i will rub even wose in the front and back of wheel well.
i hope you can understand the problem. it's a lot more complicated and precise than what you think (just the top clearance and width + offset). you need to think about tires, brand, model, size, clearance
1) you have to factor i nthe stretching of tires on the width of wheels you gettin. putting 275/30 on 9.5 is very different from putting the same tire on 10. on the 10 it will stretch more, making the sidewall at a larger angle, which in turn give you better clearance.
and this stretching will be different from tires to tires as well. get a tire from perelli it will be very different from the one from michelin, even if it says the exact same numbers
so let's say if you put 295/30 (if such a tire exist), since you are pushing the boundary to hard, you have to select tires very carefully so you get the max width but still with correct angle to clear the fender.
for example, on rmmgs'4 20x11 +47 with ps2 295/25/20, he has no problem clearance (after all the shaving). on my car with 10.5 +41 with 285/30/20, i have no problem at the top too. now if i put 295/25/20 on my 10.5? it will fit, but i am inclinded to think that i will rub at the top
2) you have to VERY careful when dealing with 20s, and if you are getting overspec tires. on rmmgs4's car, he has 295/25/20, which has almost identical overall diameter as stock wheels. his lowering is pretty much the same as my car, but he has ZERO rubbing
on my car, i have 285/30/20, so my overall diameter is 1" overspec, and given that i have the michelin a/s, it's a meaty tire too. after shaving all the fenders, i have NO problem clearing the top at all, it clears 100% perfect. however the problem was on the side, right at the front and back of the wheel well. the 1" overspec, obviously, is not just on the height but also 1" overspec horizontally. what it does is when you hit a dip or so and suspension compressed, it might rub the front and back of the fender, which was my case
so i had to take out a plastic piece on the back of the fender, and also shave the fender ALL the way around as much as i could. it was no fun. i made it to work, but i can tell you if i get more aggressive offset, which is possible to clear the top, i will rub even wose in the front and back of wheel well.
i hope you can understand the problem. it's a lot more complicated and precise than what you think (just the top clearance and width + offset). you need to think about tires, brand, model, size, clearance
I may be happy with a setup exactly like RMMGS4s (same tire) however, due to the angle of the shot, I couldn't tell the flushness of the setup. It appears that this setup also allows for a 305 series setup as well. RMMGs4, would you happen to have a shot squarely from the back?
RMMGS5 and Rominl, I saw in one of the other posts that SocalSC4 indicated that 20x10.5 +32 with Falken 285/30/20 FK 451s is perfectly flush. However, I am not sure what mods are being done to get to that fitment. On offset alone that would be close or equal to a 20x11 38 offset.
That being said, do you think with the exact same setup as RMMGS4, that it could be moved out another 5 mm?
I think that pics of setups identifying wheel sizes, tire selection, and offsets would make a very helpful sticky
.
04-15-06, 10:42 PM
#33
i would leave it up to socalsc4 to comment, he definitely did a lot of work on his car
seeing rmmgs4's car, if it's ps2 again, i am pretty sure 305 will fit. but if you go to another brand then it's a different story. personally i think his car and my car are as flush as i would ever want to go, anything more it's like asking for trouble. again that's just me, everyone has different limits
bottom line is, if you get 11 +35, i am sure you can still fit it on, but whether your car is still drivable that's another story
seeing rmmgs4's car, if it's ps2 again, i am pretty sure 305 will fit. but if you go to another brand then it's a different story. personally i think his car and my car are as flush as i would ever want to go, anything more it's like asking for trouble. again that's just me, everyone has different limits
bottom line is, if you get 11 +35, i am sure you can still fit it on, but whether your car is still drivable that's another story
04-16-06, 12:35 AM
#34
I believe I CAN go out another 5mm, but it will be outside of being flush with the fender.
As far as a 305, I believe if Michelin came out with a 305 of the same design as the 295, I would be very very very close to the lip.
There are no issues with other suspension components, arms, brakes, coilovers, etc. rubbing on the inside.
This has never been an issue. It's all about offset, tire sidewall design combined with rim width. I believe it is possible to find another brand of tire, same size, but with a narrower rim and offset translated and have a rubbing problem.
We're pushing the envelope, so we can only guarantee what we are saying will not rub when using these exact same offsets, sizes and tire brands.
I don't have a picture of a better angle and my car is in the shop right now for most of this week so I don't have it at home to take any new shots.
I already stated that a yardstick placed against the wheel, would sit flush against the bottom of the rim lip, the top of the rim lip and flush against the body fender.
We don't need a picture to verify how flush that is.
IMO that's as flush as it gets.
Now back to using a larger tire. If I did a 305, I believe the tire "itself" would now appear to be more flush with the fender ( the rim already is flush), but the curvature of the sidewall might then be too square and it may rub.
I can try for a pic of a better angle next week if I get a chance.
As far as a 305, I believe if Michelin came out with a 305 of the same design as the 295, I would be very very very close to the lip.
There are no issues with other suspension components, arms, brakes, coilovers, etc. rubbing on the inside.
This has never been an issue. It's all about offset, tire sidewall design combined with rim width. I believe it is possible to find another brand of tire, same size, but with a narrower rim and offset translated and have a rubbing problem.
We're pushing the envelope, so we can only guarantee what we are saying will not rub when using these exact same offsets, sizes and tire brands.
I don't have a picture of a better angle and my car is in the shop right now for most of this week so I don't have it at home to take any new shots.
I already stated that a yardstick placed against the wheel, would sit flush against the bottom of the rim lip, the top of the rim lip and flush against the body fender.
We don't need a picture to verify how flush that is.
IMO that's as flush as it gets.
Now back to using a larger tire. If I did a 305, I believe the tire "itself" would now appear to be more flush with the fender ( the rim already is flush), but the curvature of the sidewall might then be too square and it may rub.
I can try for a pic of a better angle next week if I get a chance.
Last edited by RMMGS4; 04-16-06 at 12:46 AM.
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