sc400 2nv

well, i just put some 19x9.5 rears and 19x8 wheels on my sc. i want a more flushed look for the rear and wanted to put a 1/4" spacer in the rear... what is the biggest size spacer u can put without changing out the stock studs...and be safe. i know they sell the spacers with built in studs but i would prefer to not cut the stock studs...

i went to a shop and they said that a 1/4" spacer was risky for the rear(i think its about 6-7mm in metric).

anyone with wheel spacers...help!!! your feedback would be helpfull. thanks in advance.

EXE.UCF10

iTrader: (3)

The shop is right, it's risky. 3mm would be max, but that wouldn't even be worth it IMHO. You have to either change out the studs to longer ones or go with KICS adapters.

pvmike1

That might actually be okay. Just make certain that you have at least 6 or 6.5 full turns of the lug nuts to properly secure the wheel.

I run 25mm spacers on my car. They're made by H&R, and have built in studs. I hear a spacer should be at least 15 mm thick in order to be strong enough to accommodate built in studs.

If you cannot get at least 6 full turns with a spacer, or if you cannot use a thick spacer with attached studs, you will need to install extended studs to replace your stock ones.

Also, make certain that the spacers are hubcentric, meaning that the hole in the center of the spacer be an exact fit over the hub. Many places sell generic spacers with a larger hole in the center to accommodate many different hub sizes. However, this may cause some vibration as it is difficult to precisely center them with only the lugs.

If you need a custom sized spacer, I'd call Fred Goeske: http://www.wheeladapter.com/home.asp
He's about 80 years old, and he's got a couple CNC machines to make custom spacers. Pretty reasonable pricing too.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

what offset wheels do you have?

Brandon@TR

Your moderator gives PVMikes response his official seal of agreement. 6 turns is very important. We use the term "safety critical".

CK6Speed

iTrader: (1)

I absolutely agree with Mike and Brandon at Tire Rack. Minimum of 6 full turns is the rule of thumb I learned as well. Probably I agree so much because I learned it from Ken over at Prime and he probably got the information from Tire Rack

Now, the only thing I have been a bit unclear about was if the 6 full turns was before you torque it down or inclusive?

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

If you got it properly snug first, it should take only 1/2 turn or maybe 1 turn to torque... a little extra wouldn't hurt...

CK6Speed

iTrader: (1)

That is the thing. A few times I've had about 5 1/2 turns to snug (By snug I mean when the lug just touches the lug hole base using fing presssure) before torquing, but obviously after torquing the extra 1/2 turn maybe a little more meets the 6 full turns. Generally I played it safe if I was driving on it and replaced the studs; however, if it was just for a short time like a car show or something I never bothered. If I only get 5 full turns I wouldn't chance it, but that 5 1/2 turns starts to play on the fense and I'm not sure which way I should lean.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

~should~ be ok... kinda depends on the thread pitch... if you talk to the manufacturers, the real rule isn't 6 turns, it's that the lug should engage the stud threads by it's diameter... so, if you have a 12mm stud, there should be 12mm worth of engagement...

CK6Speed

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the tip.