Taking apart 3pc rim
06-27-08, 11:03 PM
#16
Lexus Champion
Okay, you guys are freaking me out with the conjecture and doubt on taking apart multi-piece wheels.
If you're not 100% confident with what you're doing, please leave this to the professionals.
You're talking about having a wheel come unzipped at speed if you screw-up the reassembly process. The life you save could be mine!
The torque specifications will vary between manufacturers and is dictated primarily by the type of fastener used. A titanium bolt, for example, has different torque requirements than a stainless steel or steel fastener. Also, in some cases you would need to torque the bolt from the front side and in others you'd torque the fasteners from the NUT, or back side. The wheel manufacturer should be able to tell you this, but many won't due to liability created by having unauthorized personnel service their wheels.
Also, wheel fasteners are typically good for one-time use. When repairing or servicing a multi-piece wheel, most companies will insist on replacing the assembly hardware. During original assembly, the bolts stretch a bit when they are torqued and over time they can fatigue. This won't manifest itself as a problem until the bolts are loosened- when you re-torque them, you stretch them again. In some instances you can yield the bolts, causing a fatigue failure later on (or even during the re-torquing procedure).
I know you guys don't think it's a big deal, but it is. I've seen all sorts of scary stuff occur....
If you're not 100% confident with what you're doing, please leave this to the professionals.
You're talking about having a wheel come unzipped at speed if you screw-up the reassembly process. The life you save could be mine!
The torque specifications will vary between manufacturers and is dictated primarily by the type of fastener used. A titanium bolt, for example, has different torque requirements than a stainless steel or steel fastener. Also, in some cases you would need to torque the bolt from the front side and in others you'd torque the fasteners from the NUT, or back side. The wheel manufacturer should be able to tell you this, but many won't due to liability created by having unauthorized personnel service their wheels.
Also, wheel fasteners are typically good for one-time use. When repairing or servicing a multi-piece wheel, most companies will insist on replacing the assembly hardware. During original assembly, the bolts stretch a bit when they are torqued and over time they can fatigue. This won't manifest itself as a problem until the bolts are loosened- when you re-torque them, you stretch them again. In some instances you can yield the bolts, causing a fatigue failure later on (or even during the re-torquing procedure).
I know you guys don't think it's a big deal, but it is. I've seen all sorts of scary stuff occur....
06-28-08, 03:03 PM
#17
Okay, you guys are freaking me out with the conjecture and doubt on taking apart multi-piece wheels.
If you're not 100% confident with what you're doing, please leave this to the professionals.
You're talking about having a wheel come unzipped at speed if you screw-up the reassembly process. The life you save could be mine!
The torque specifications will vary between manufacturers and is dictated primarily by the type of fastener used. A titanium bolt, for example, has different torque requirements than a stainless steel or steel fastener. Also, in some cases you would need to torque the bolt from the front side and in others you'd torque the fasteners from the NUT, or back side. The wheel manufacturer should be able to tell you this, but many won't due to liability created by having unauthorized personnel service their wheels.
Also, wheel fasteners are typically good for one-time use. When repairing or servicing a multi-piece wheel, most companies will insist on replacing the assembly hardware. During original assembly, the bolts stretch a bit when they are torqued and over time they can fatigue. This won't manifest itself as a problem until the bolts are loosened- when you re-torque them, you stretch them again. In some instances you can yield the bolts, causing a fatigue failure later on (or even during the re-torquing procedure).
I know you guys don't think it's a big deal, but it is. I've seen all sorts of scary stuff occur....
If you're not 100% confident with what you're doing, please leave this to the professionals.
You're talking about having a wheel come unzipped at speed if you screw-up the reassembly process. The life you save could be mine!
The torque specifications will vary between manufacturers and is dictated primarily by the type of fastener used. A titanium bolt, for example, has different torque requirements than a stainless steel or steel fastener. Also, in some cases you would need to torque the bolt from the front side and in others you'd torque the fasteners from the NUT, or back side. The wheel manufacturer should be able to tell you this, but many won't due to liability created by having unauthorized personnel service their wheels.
Also, wheel fasteners are typically good for one-time use. When repairing or servicing a multi-piece wheel, most companies will insist on replacing the assembly hardware. During original assembly, the bolts stretch a bit when they are torqued and over time they can fatigue. This won't manifest itself as a problem until the bolts are loosened- when you re-torque them, you stretch them again. In some instances you can yield the bolts, causing a fatigue failure later on (or even during the re-torquing procedure).
I know you guys don't think it's a big deal, but it is. I've seen all sorts of scary stuff occur....
08-06-08, 02:32 PM
#18
fyi
I got my Zaubers redone a couple of years back and the location that did this for me actually sent my wheels out to be disassembled
out of curiosity I called the place where they sent out my wheels and they said that there is no specific torque that they use for the wheels that come in. They just said to make sure not to over tighten
I got my Zaubers redone a couple of years back and the location that did this for me actually sent my wheels out to be disassembled
out of curiosity I called the place where they sent out my wheels and they said that there is no specific torque that they use for the wheels that come in. They just said to make sure not to over tighten
Last edited by LEXISM; 08-07-08 at 01:27 PM.
08-06-08, 09:02 PM
#19
theres 30 something bolts holding the wheel together...unless all of them failed at one time....its unlikely that it will fall apart.
some wheels even leave one bolt out if the valve stem is angled to blend in and other wheels fill all the bolt holes forcing you to reach into the barrel to fill air.
I've seen high end expensive wheels assembled brand new and its nothing special. as long as all the bolts are tight and torqued...the biggest worry you will have is the air seal between the barrel and lip.
if you plan to disassemble yourself..make sure you dismount the tires or else you may warp the barrels and lip and seal.
some wheels even leave one bolt out if the valve stem is angled to blend in and other wheels fill all the bolt holes forcing you to reach into the barrel to fill air.
I've seen high end expensive wheels assembled brand new and its nothing special. as long as all the bolts are tight and torqued...the biggest worry you will have is the air seal between the barrel and lip.
if you plan to disassemble yourself..make sure you dismount the tires or else you may warp the barrels and lip and seal.
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