Whoa! Do not under any circumstances fit a 5x112 wheel onto a 5x114.3 vehicle without 'properly' modifying the wheel!

Although the wheels may physically fit on the car, the lug nuts will not seat properly- remember, almost all aftermarket wheels use a 60 degree conical-seat tool to drill the wheels. The conical seat portion of the lug nut with not engage this properly if the P.C.D. (pitch-circle diameter aka bolt circle) is incorrect. There is serious risk of the wheel parting company with the vehicle if this is attempted!

Perhaps the "best" method (if there is a 'correct' one) for accomplishing this change is to "drill and insert" the wheels. With this method, the machinist overbores the lug holes slightly to accept a steel insert, which is then pressed into each lug hole. This is typically reserved for 'covered lug' wheels, since the lug cover will hide any machining marks left on the wheel. One can usually change the bolt pattern by 6mm or less.

On an 'open lug wheel,' the design of the lug pockets will dictate how much you can 'move' a lug pattern.

Consult a professional... here in L.A., see:

Steve Russell at Russell Machine Co. (310) 532-5520.
Steve drills all kinds of wheels for CEC, Antera, MOMO, American Racing, etc., and really knows his stuff. He can make custom billet spacers & adapters, too.

 

I'm told there is NO widening of the holes.....It should just go right onto our 114.3 Bolt Pattern. Wonder if anyone has a Mercedes that wants to give it a shot...

 

You have to widen the holes...112 vs. 114.3...think about it...

 

Remember my screen name Mike.....Enginyr.

There is a certain amount of clearance with both the 112 and the 114.3 bolt pattern. The difference in english units is .090". If my theory is correct, the acorn nuts will still center the wheel even with a slightly larger diameter bolt pattern. There is still the issue of offsets, & hub diameter.

 

Remember what I do for a living: make wheels...

Conical-seat nuts WILL NOT seat properly- as Manaray said, think about it. The only way you could make it work is with a flat-seated (captive washer) mag style lug nut: then there wouldn't be much surface area for the washer to seat.

A shank-style nut (like Lexus/Totota uses OE) wouldn't even come close to fitting.

I just don't get it: all of you guys will buck-up for a Lexus (what's wrong with a nice '83 Tercel, after all), but many of you continue to be absolute cheesballs when it comes to accessorizing/modifying/customizing. This is not an issue of taste or personal preference, but a real safety issue.

Don't do it! You won't be the first person to loose a wheel (or worse).

 

Amen SoCalSC4. Same people who toss on spacers without new studs. NOT knowing that you need 1.5 threads engaged per MM of stud width. M12(12mm Stud) you need 8 engaged threads to make sure the wheel is properly fastened. These people are nuts, ante up and toss out the few extra bucks for the right wheels, you own a LEXUS. Yeah lets screw with drilling so my wheel will strip right off when I take a hard turn…

 

I deal with mechanical designs all day. I don't need to argue with rookies!

 

hmmm.

Well you said "I'm told there is NO widening of the holes.....It should just go right onto our 114.3 Bolt Pattern." If that's true, then what's there to modify? If it'll fit right in, what's the deal with paying some guy 300 bucks to mount your wheels? That's the part I don't get.

 

Okay, I take particular offense to the 'rookie' comment... what do you know about my background or education? Better question: what do we know about yours? I've already said that this is what I do for a living (Fitment Engineer & Project Manager for a custom wheel manufacturer).

With a conical tapered nut, you are essentially driving a wedge into the lug holes. The nuts will only seat properly if the studs bend (and they will bend). I can hardly believe any engineer would agree that this is a good thing on a 3600 lb. (or any) car. Ever read a physics book?

I swear, some of you guys must just sit and crawl around various forums looking to stir stuff up...

 

Its not good to put 20" rims and body kits and intakes and so on and so on....but we do it anyways....Certain risks to doing ANY MOD. I never said I would do it to my car, but this is certainly an option. I see you know your stuff but there are ways around the typical every day design.

http://www.boltplanet.com/Un/un.asp?...=Calculate+Now

as long as all 5 bolts have atleast 3 threads engagement, I see no problem.

Keep managing and I'll keep designing!

 

Well the auction is over so it does not really matter does it..

Enginyr, although the wheels are gorgeous and would look great on your ride, I dont think you are correct in your argument here.

When the nuts holds the wheel to the car, they must seat properly in the conical seat. If you attempt to use these wheels on your car, you will get them on...however the nuts will not seat properly in the conical seats of the wheels. The force (from the weight of the car) will not be distributed evenly along the nut but only at the contact point putting extreme pressure which the bolt is not designed for. This strain/stress can lead to some serious failures and can result in serious injuries. I would not like to see anyone on this club...even people I've never met get hurt attempting something not sound.

Body kits, intakes, other mods are not as risky from a safety standpoint like you mention.

Dude, your well being and safety is worth much more than saving a few bucks!

Dont do it...

 

That's a really neat link, thanks!

Unfortunately, I don't really see a method for calculating axial loads, or any way to consider the base material (aluminum of the wheel in this case)- not to mention the tension/compression loads placed on opposite sides of the wheel studs due to bending.

This is a very sophisticated problem to solve- lots of variables like the wheel stud's moment (it is now bending), stud material, nut material- what about the increase of torque at the nut (with a now decreasing load!) as the tapered nut wedges itself into the wheel's lug seat? The Bolt Calculator doesn't consider these issues.

I haven't sat down & worked this out to the 'nth' degree yet, and I'm sure many engineers would say 'it should work fine,' but that's not the way I approach things...

 

That is just rude, if that was the case, why post questions on this board, and why ask for people's opinions??

being a mechanical engineer in school doesn't mean anything. Come out to the the real world and use some of your special knowlege and apply them to real world issues, instead of calling others rookie that took their time to give you a thoughful and professional answer for your own well being.

 

steve/enginry

sometimes even engineer fail ...

wasnt twin towers suppose to handle more then just a plane....

its all up to you bro....

if you wanna do it... then do it.... just remmber your risking your life what "THEY" say dont matter offcourse wheel shop is gonna tell you its ok.. they want your $300... cause they are makin $$$$ .. they can careless about you...

alotta people said when i get the WiN kit with my H&R suspension.. my car is gonna rub/scrape all over the place.... well guess what.... it hasnt rubbed/scraped once...

Some times others are rigth.. sometimes they are Wrong..... if you wanna risk beliving them .. then go right ahead... but for once sit down and think...... Is money more important or saftey... say if not now... but 2 years form now... you still have these modified wheels and the car... and not even you.. but like your girlfriend or your wife borrow's your car.. and god forbid something goes wrong (you know how grls drive.. hehe jk)with the wheel because the studs cant handle the presure anymore because of so much stress on one or 2 of them for so long... and somthing goes wrong....... you get the picture....


if its ok when you put it on... it wont be ok for long... you never know.... just like when you mess with an engine of a car.... once you mess with it.. you cant ever get it to work like it always did before you stared modifying... thats why souped up hondas arent worth anything and sell for so cheap.. because they have been tamperd with... engineers like you spend years to figure out exact measurements down to a MillaMetter (spelling) im prolly the dumbest person (not realli but still) on this board when it comes to wheels....

but to tell you the truth .... i was in an exact situation like yours!!!!!!

i had 20inch lowenhart 20x9 with bridgestone s-o2's
the bolt pattern on the.. 5x112 made to fit a S500 ....

i was gonna get em drilled.. but thank god manaray and some others here talked me out of it... i dont know where i would be....

see remmer how my front end of the car dropped to the ground... you know why??? JUST BECUZ the bodyshop forgot to putt a pin in to the ball joint..
that little pin could do so much.. i just learned that... so think about it... what would putting a benz wheel with benz bolt pattern on a lexus...


Save time ..
headache...
and your own life

sell your ld1's to a rich dumb bbasttardd with a benz..

and buy ld1's thats made for your car....


just my .02 centz

 

Calling anyone here "rookie" is pretty rude. You don't know everyone here nor do you know what their background is...but at any rate, calling SoCalSC4 a "rookie" is just plain wrong. If you knew who he was (now that I've figured it out!), you wouldn't say that about him...trust me...