Pics of my Work Rezax's...
02-08-03, 03:35 AM
#46
Lexus Fanatic
Retro - Hehehe...yes...certain Russians 
Stealther - Blue = 7.62 NATO
Richie - Always expect the unexpected...
dagr8tsthustla - No, Cali isn't that bad (well, most parts) but the way Cali gun laws work, anything can be banned for NO REASON....so I figure I should buy what I can now because most laws allow "grandfathering" (if you already own it, you can keep, you just can't buy new stuff) You can't even buy ammo like a few weeks before New Years in Los Angeles...then again, we have a lot of stupid *** people in Cali...I mean really, is it necessary to shoot rounds off in the air for new years? In a crowded city?
Mike: I'll post a picture of one my recent acquisitions soon...
Stealther - Blue = 7.62 NATO
Richie - Always expect the unexpected...
dagr8tsthustla - No, Cali isn't that bad (well, most parts) but the way Cali gun laws work, anything can be banned for NO REASON....so I figure I should buy what I can now because most laws allow "grandfathering" (if you already own it, you can keep, you just can't buy new stuff) You can't even buy ammo like a few weeks before New Years in Los Angeles...then again, we have a lot of stupid *** people in Cali...I mean really, is it necessary to shoot rounds off in the air for new years? In a crowded city?
Mike: I'll post a picture of one my recent acquisitions soon...
02-08-03, 11:43 AM
#47
Lexus Fanatic
Originally posted by Manaray
Retro - Hehehe...yes...certain Russians
Stealther - Blue = 7.62 NATO
Richie - Always expect the unexpected...
dagr8tsthustla - No, Cali isn't that bad (well, most parts) but the way Cali gun laws work, anything can be banned for NO REASON....so I figure I should buy what I can now because most laws allow "grandfathering" (if you already own it, you can keep, you just can't buy new stuff) You can't even buy ammo like a few weeks before New Years in Los Angeles...then again, we have a lot of stupid *** people in Cali...I mean really, is it necessary to shoot rounds off in the air for new years? In a crowded city?
Mike: I'll post a picture of one my recent acquisitions soon...
Retro - Hehehe...yes...certain Russians
Stealther - Blue = 7.62 NATO
Richie - Always expect the unexpected...
dagr8tsthustla - No, Cali isn't that bad (well, most parts) but the way Cali gun laws work, anything can be banned for NO REASON....so I figure I should buy what I can now because most laws allow "grandfathering" (if you already own it, you can keep, you just can't buy new stuff) You can't even buy ammo like a few weeks before New Years in Los Angeles...then again, we have a lot of stupid *** people in Cali...I mean really, is it necessary to shoot rounds off in the air for new years? In a crowded city?
Mike: I'll post a picture of one my recent acquisitions soon...
02-08-03, 12:05 PM
#49
Lexus Fanatic
Originally posted by jpa2400
Anyone in LA can show you Richie, they do it in the street for fun, they even use real people to practice on.
Anyone in LA can show you Richie, they do it in the street for fun, they even use real people to practice on.
02-08-03, 08:52 PM
#50
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
MrSypher - great looking rims.
I'm assuming they're 20's? 8.5 and 9.5?
What offsets? Did you get high disk fitment for front for bigger brakes?
Are they hub centric for the Lexus axle? If not will you use centering rings?
Congrats and thanks in advance for answers.
I'm assuming they're 20's? 8.5 and 9.5?
What offsets? Did you get high disk fitment for front for bigger brakes?
Are they hub centric for the Lexus axle? If not will you use centering rings?
Congrats and thanks in advance for answers.
02-08-03, 09:57 PM
#52
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
Originally posted by GS4Will
Bit..mikey has these:
20x8.5/+42/high
20x10/+47/super low
ctr rings are recommended for these wheels
Bit..mikey has these:
20x8.5/+42/high
20x10/+47/super low
ctr rings are recommended for these wheels
02-08-03, 11:38 PM
#53
Will, question if you don't mind...
mike got the rezax with a 47 offset and the SL fitment, and his rear lip was about 2.75"~3.00" or something. what is it about rims such as the zauber craze flying around here that gives those rims so much more lip.
i just not yet able to understand why all rims can' have the same lip options. enlighten me, please
mike got the rezax with a 47 offset and the SL fitment, and his rear lip was about 2.75"~3.00" or something. what is it about rims such as the zauber craze flying around here that gives those rims so much more lip.
i just not yet able to understand why all rims can' have the same lip options. enlighten me, please
02-09-03, 12:02 AM
#54
Lexus Fanatic
B...frankly, i do not have an exact answer for you on this one.
on the same offfset and width, the gettins have mor lips than the rezaxx, and such is what the selling point of the Gettins...it all has to do with the wheel/spoke design
wish i could explain better
on the same offfset and width, the gettins have mor lips than the rezaxx, and such is what the selling point of the Gettins...it all has to do with the wheel/spoke design
wish i could explain better
02-09-03, 03:32 AM
#55
Lexus Fanatic
From my examination of it, it seems the reason why the Zauber's can support such a deep lip is due the disk's (the center portion of the wheel) design. If you notice, at the "ends" of the spokes (closest to the lip) they cut in rather far....this allows them to set the disk "outward" (towards the fender) which allows for the lip to be deeper since the "meeting" point (where the disk meets the front and rear lip bolt "ridges") is farther back.
On wheels that don't do this, like the SSR GT3 for example, you'll noticed that the ends of the spokes don't do that.
Now why can't wheel manufactures ALL do that? Well, that I can not answer...they all have their reasons I suppose (remember, not EVERYONE cares about large lips...I know, I know..."how can that be?!" ). Also, with that style of design, there is more weight added to the outer circumference (which is bad) due to the extra metal at the ends of the spokes...
Now why can't wheel designers just set the disk back farther? Well one of the reason that I know of is because of the center hub...on the GS, the center hub (axle, centerbore, whatever) sticks out nearly as far as the bolts (I just looked at mine the other day)...so if you set the disk in too far, then you can't get a center cap on there. I'm sure there are also other, more "technical" reasons (like wheel balance, location of the "centerline" to pad and whatnot) but I know that's one reason why certain brands can only offer certain lip depths...and the disks design (curvature, hub area, etc.) also makes a difference...for example, concave wheels can't support the same type of deep lips as convex due to the fact that the mount point/centerline/hub would be too far inward...
Also, the source that the wheel company gets their lip from may not allow "maximization" of lip...for example, to make a 3 piece wheel, you need an outer lip, a disk, and a inner lip...now when they manufacture the outer lip (the one closest to the fender), they make them in say 2", 2.5", 3", 3.5", etc...all the custom brand wheels and non-custom brand wheels usually get the lips from another source...HRE, iForged, Kinesis, get their lips and raw center forgings from someone else...they don't own forging machines or a machine to makes lips...what they do have are the CNC machines that they used to cut out the raw forgings into a disk and they have people put the wheel together...oh, and they usually have do the finishes in-house but not always...sometimes they send out for certain things like anodizing, painting, etc...sometimes, finishes are all outsourced...oh, they also sometimes get the lips and raw center forgings from same source...
Now let's say that on the GS, you could mess with your offsets and custom make a center cap (like a deep one or someting) that allows you to have a 3.78" lip...well if the wheel manufacture's lip "source" only makes a 3.5" or 4" lip, guess what? You're getting a 3.5" lip since a 4" wouldn't work.
Now if you go with a 2-piece welded wheel, well, the ball game changes...with a 2-piece wheel, you have the lip (which is all in one...front and rear are the same piece of metal) and the center. Since there is no "ridge" where they need to meet, you can have the disk welded anywhere (within reason) inside the wheel. So that means that you could have a 3.78" or 3.79" or whatever lip because they set it to the right spot and then weld around the edge. 2-piece welded wheels also have the advantage of being lighter (generally) than a 3-piece wheel (there's no ridges on the lips and no bolts...and the "ridge" on the disk is generally smaller, meaning less metal)...I just HATE it when they put bolts (real bolts, bolted into the wheel) on a 2-piece welded wheel because the bolts serve NO FUNCTION WHATSOEVER. If it's a 2-piece welded wheel, it should NOT have bolts. PERIOD. Know what I mean Vern? 2-piece wheels usually cost less also but there is no "technical" disadvantages (that I know of) compared to a 3-piece wheel....2-piece wheels can also be disassembled (usually only by the wheel company...unless you have a de-welder... ) and they don't have the potential to leak air like a 3-piece wheel (when the silicon strip goes bad...hmmm, did that sound like a new "reality" show?)
Now I'm no wheel expert or anything, so I may be off a couple of things here and there but this from my understanding and what I've picked up over the years...
On wheels that don't do this, like the SSR GT3 for example, you'll noticed that the ends of the spokes don't do that.
Now why can't wheel manufactures ALL do that? Well, that I can not answer...they all have their reasons I suppose (remember, not EVERYONE cares about large lips...I know, I know..."how can that be?!"
). Also, with that style of design, there is more weight added to the outer circumference (which is bad) due to the extra metal at the ends of the spokes...Now why can't wheel designers just set the disk back farther? Well one of the reason that I know of is because of the center hub...on the GS, the center hub (axle, centerbore, whatever) sticks out nearly as far as the bolts (I just looked at mine the other day)...so if you set the disk in too far, then you can't get a center cap on there. I'm sure there are also other, more "technical" reasons (like wheel balance, location of the "centerline" to pad and whatnot) but I know that's one reason why certain brands can only offer certain lip depths...and the disks design (curvature, hub area, etc.) also makes a difference...for example, concave wheels can't support the same type of deep lips as convex due to the fact that the mount point/centerline/hub would be too far inward...
Also, the source that the wheel company gets their lip from may not allow "maximization" of lip...for example, to make a 3 piece wheel, you need an outer lip, a disk, and a inner lip...now when they manufacture the outer lip (the one closest to the fender), they make them in say 2", 2.5", 3", 3.5", etc...all the custom brand wheels and non-custom brand wheels usually get the lips from another source...HRE, iForged, Kinesis, get their lips and raw center forgings from someone else...they don't own forging machines or a machine to makes lips...what they do have are the CNC machines that they used to cut out the raw forgings into a disk and they have people put the wheel together...oh, and they usually have do the finishes in-house but not always...sometimes they send out for certain things like anodizing, painting, etc...sometimes, finishes are all outsourced...oh, they also sometimes get the lips and raw center forgings from same source...
Now let's say that on the GS, you could mess with your offsets and custom make a center cap (like a deep one or someting) that allows you to have a 3.78" lip...well if the wheel manufacture's lip "source" only makes a 3.5" or 4" lip, guess what? You're getting a 3.5" lip since a 4" wouldn't work.
Now if you go with a 2-piece welded wheel, well, the ball game changes...with a 2-piece wheel, you have the lip (which is all in one...front and rear are the same piece of metal) and the center. Since there is no "ridge" where they need to meet, you can have the disk welded anywhere (within reason) inside the wheel. So that means that you could have a 3.78" or 3.79" or whatever lip because they set it to the right spot and then weld around the edge. 2-piece welded wheels also have the advantage of being lighter (generally) than a 3-piece wheel (there's no ridges on the lips and no bolts...and the "ridge" on the disk is generally smaller, meaning less metal)...I just HATE it when they put bolts (real bolts, bolted into the wheel) on a 2-piece welded wheel because the bolts serve NO FUNCTION WHATSOEVER. If it's a 2-piece welded wheel, it should NOT have bolts. PERIOD. Know what I mean Vern? 2-piece wheels usually cost less also but there is no "technical" disadvantages (that I know of) compared to a 3-piece wheel....2-piece wheels can also be disassembled (usually only by the wheel company...unless you have a de-welder...
) and they don't have the potential to leak air like a 3-piece wheel (when the silicon strip goes bad...hmmm, did that sound like a new "reality" show?)Now I'm no wheel expert or anything, so I may be off a couple of things here and there but this from my understanding and what I've picked up over the years...
Last edited by Manaray; 02-09-03 at 03:39 AM.
02-09-03, 06:37 AM
#57
Originally posted by Manaray
Now I'm no wheel expert or anything, so I may be off a couple of things here and there but this from my understanding and what I've picked up over the years...
Now I'm no wheel expert or anything, so I may be off a couple of things here and there but this from my understanding and what I've picked up over the years...
02-09-03, 01:23 PM
#60
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 5,145
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, since I don't think my rims will be going on my car any time soon because this weather just blows... Here is what it will look like. Not really because it'll look alot better when they're mounted.. But here...